https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B004A37IQC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.eurocarparts.com/search/635442050
I replaced my shocks with these after 1 started to leak and they had done over 100k
I'd clear the code and then see if it comes back lol. There's not much that can go wrong. It's just awkward. Worst job I've done was change the thermostat. That's just a stupid design and location.
It's not a quick job, but not difficult once you know what to do.
You'll need the VW 20 spline sockets and a a small socket set with hex bits. I have the CEGA engine. You'll need to disconnect the rubber intake hose going in to the inlet. It's stiff and takes some manipulation. Put a glove...
I can't remember what code I had when my actuator tore. It definitely had those attributes though. Think the glow plug light was constantly flashing, no power at all.
I have a CEGA engine and it wasn't easy to do. You'll need to disconnect the fuel rail, hope the studs on the inlet don't snap. I had one break off. Pull the glow plug leads out.
Mine just didn't feel like they would budge. Pull the hose from the intercooler to inlet and disconnect the EGR...
Looking good, epic job to do in the end.
I used VCDS to put my sensor as a visual display. It was a long time ago and I'm not sure what I did now lol. I'm sure there will be a guide on here or elsewhere as that's how I knew about it.
I wonder if you need an external microphone? My 310 is...
Check your oil levels if you haven't already. Mine was doing it and on checking it was just over the max mark on the dipstick. I took a bit of oil out and it stopped smoking. I'd overfilled it, but also leaking injectors could cause the oil level to rise and will kill the engine if not sorted
I've gone over 160k and I've been running stage 1 since it was on about 40k and no flap issues other than the motor rotation code. I considered the flap delete, but didn't bother as they had no play in them.
I had to do the motor bracket mod as I was getting the fault code repeatedly. Its inlet off to do it though. While it was off I cleaned out all the carbon build up which was epic and took a long time to get it all out. Tne flaps were fine so I just refitted it. It's been fine since.
I'm not...
I can see the top connector(nav) is male so assuming the blue dab is the same you need female to female.
Bingfu Fakra Z Water Blue Female to Female Vehicle Aerial Antenna Extension Cable 3m for Car Stereo Android Head Unit GPS Navigation FM AM Radio DAB Radio 4G LTE TEL Telematics Bluetooth...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295083013776?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rCc3-B-LT0u&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=O3iqmH8lTyG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
That if the head unit has a male connector on it. The inner metal part being the male part not the plastic to prevent confusion.
Fakra cable, it's female at the aerial end you need. I cant see any clear pictures of the back of the head unit to see if it's male. 2m should be plenty. I was just looking for you as I have my old aerial still. It's the same cable for DAB and GPS so buy 2. If its female male then 2 of these...
That aerial is DAB and GPS in 1. You can run a DAB/GPS cable from the aerial down the side if the roof lining to the head unit. I already had a factory GPS cable fitted, so I only needed a different DAB cable as it was a different connection on my add on
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