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Was a split CV boot on mine and suspension strut fouling on it (screw had snapped :/)

Passed MOT. replaced CV Gaitor. swapped front springs to Vogtland from my KONI setup and stuck on LCR Top mounts

Change the car battery

If I can get a cut along there though I can use a flat head screw drive to lock the shock while turning the nut safely...no risk of damage then. Just wondering if anyone else has done it is all....impact gun seems too agressive as I can't risk damaging the shock

Be a risk of damaging the shock though surely...if an impact gun can't undo the nut it's just going to spin the tube wildly

Low and behold I try to do my front springs from my current shite to my vogtlands...thought I'd start on the passenger side, since there's less room to work with, was a b!tch but got it done. I move to the drive side, wheel off, droplink etc and get to take the top mount bolts and cap off only...

What engine? Check all pipes to and from the Combi valve, make sure all are secure and nothing loose. It's on the far right, towards the back of the engine block, you'll have to remove the airbox to get to it properly. I had this code after doing N249 bypass (no hissing but needed to 'T'...

Got the Bentley Manual up on my Google Drive :) Help yourself! Keep in mind it is a 2000 page document lol Work aren't going to be happy when I print it out :rofl: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1ig6seEDnzAMm9pMjd5VXYtLWM/view?usp=sharing

If you had a spare I'd recommend buying a blank blade and coding it either yourself or by your friendly locksmith (if he does it) Guess the cost is down to the fact they have to request your specific key pattern from SEAT and stuff, then it's the labour to code it. How much they charge just...

VAGCOM will reveal all if there is a major problem with either that could affect performance.

Get a diagnostic done, probably a coilpack, fault DV or something at least then you'll know exactly what's wrong rather than doing work that could amount to nothing being fixed

Nope, EGR is on Diesel engines. Why?

Do that yourself I would, not exactly end of the world job there. Just take your time and you'd save yourself a couple £100. Fill, and spray! (obviously there's a lot more in between with sanding and going through the grits etc. :p)

Rather than using extended bolts where they just pass through the spacer into the wheel hub the hubcentric ones bolt to the wheel hub, then you bolt the wheel to the spacer with your standard wheel nuts. I don't think they go down to 5mm though, most people opt for 10-15mm as standard usually...

I go hubcentric...don't trust extended bolts but that's just me being picky lol

Just passed 100,000 on my 2001 MK1 LC :) still going strong, I will get a remap one day lol

Yeah that's what I was thinking....or just silicone the f*cker back up lol Always wanted a LiquidGauge but fro £185 quid I just can't justify it yet! See how the horses play out this week ;)

Cheers John, not what I'm looking for...I've routed pipe and cabling for my oil temp and current boost gauge the same way for my pillar pods. I'm looking at putting just hte boost into my driver vent because the pod is going my head in now, so I need to break into the 'air channel' behind it to...

Hmm...seems easy enough could be a pain in the arse though. Thanks

I've got a bit sick of my dual pillar mount so making up a drive side vent for just my boost gauge. Any idea how I route the vac pipe into the actual channel behind the vent? Do you drill in or is there a break in point? Can;t seem to find anything via search, I am hungover though :rofl: