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Well it should have lasted to the end of 2015. Genuine belt kits will last at least 5yrs between recommended changes. Saying that though, my dad had an A6 once that was done at an independent (i guess non gen parts) and that lasted 4 yrs 10 mths and snapped

I took the down pipe off and sprayed through the turbine vanes as it was the easiest to get to.... But I did have the luxury of a ramp. I found that the vacuum actuator went from moving about 1cm at the beginning to about 5cm afterwards

Just a quick Mr muscle update.... Brilliant! Removed the down pipe, then sprayed in Mr muscle and worked the actuator every 20 mins for about 4 hours and it's like a new car. Power build up and smoothness of power delivery is massively improved, lack of boost from cold has gone and so has some...

The only petrol VAG car I'm aware of the has a fuel filter change schedule is the 2003> Audi RS6. Pretty much everything else is 'fitted for life'

Do you have a part number for it? Are they expensive?

I like that. Is that a diy job or a genuine part?

What's a w8 light? I just bought some flat top red led's and fitted it into the bottom of the ash tray

Started on fitting some background lighting. Door cards and footwells being considered for the next installments.

Hi Aceman, Mine has recently started doing the same thing. It started off just in 1st gear and by the time i changed to 2nd it was fine. It's got gradually worse over the last few weeks to being about 0.2 - 0.4 miles before it sorts itself out. I did some research and apparently it can be the...

Have you got an email address or mobile number to contact you directly? Where abouts in Sheffield are you?

Tried to msg you but it won't go through. Do you have a price in mind for the interior and the engine ecu (mapped). What condition is the leather in?

I second the xcar360 cable. I've bought a few naff cables but for about £20 delivered this one has worked perfectly for me. Only issue between this and a genuine cable is that you can't update it to the latest version.... But it is quite recent anyway

Most of the values seem fine to me except that front camber. I would expect to see more negative camber by about 20' (30' tops) on the left, not the right. This is because of the natural camber of the roads. If it's as yours is, I would expect the feel the car pulling slightly to the left and...

I'd be checking your engine timing and also that the belt is correctly tensioned and not either worn or a dodgy tensioner. Incorrect correlation faults normal mean your timing is off. Have you had a cam belt change recently?

Pm'd you

You will always get marks as soon as you press the brakes. If you fit brand new discs and pads, you need to bed the brakes in a little to get full contact across the face of the pad but that doesn't take very long. The taper is only on the leading and trailing edges and about 80%+ of the pad...

Brake pads have tapered edges from new on both the leading and trailing edges, or at least genuine ones do. So long as the overall depth of the pads wear more or less equally side to side and inner & outer pads, that is normal and nothing to worry about.

You could simply get a helicoil kit and rethread the sump whilst it's still fitted to the car. Much cheaper quicker and easier option Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Make sure the car is out of gear and then when you have the cap off, stick your finger down the middle of the shaft, put as much pressure as you can against the side of it and pull it towards you. The whole input shaft should move a bit towards you, giving more clearance to remove the clip and...

Ye, the wheel bolt threads are in that Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk