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Variable vanes on the turbo compressor wheel are stuck with carbon. Get your hand down the back of the engine and give the actuator rod on the turbo a good wiggle back and forth. It should move smoothly but with quite strong resistance. Moving it up and down to break the carbon build up is a...

Firstly, why are you downgrading to a Mk2? :rofl: They seem to be selling for between £1400 - £2000 at the moment. With 150k, I think you're a touch on the optimistic side, but a well written ad would probably net you a reasonable price. 150k is big mileage, anything over 120k really cuts...

Water pump impeller is loose on its shaft. You should have coolant flow as soon as you start the engine. Timing belt and water pump replacement.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152638457307

AMK has an EGT sensor. As I said, AMK and BAM are mechanically identical, the only difference is in the mapping. APY didn't have EGT but all the other 210/225 engines do. Ask me how I know, my LC180 had a BAM ECU and mapping when I bought it and ran like a dog because it couldn't find any EGT...

Door lock, puddle light, anti-theft LED, woofer, tweeter, electric window motor, and electric window switch

Unfortunately there isn't a cheap OEM style replacement breather kit for the BAM engine. £13 gets you the full set for the LC. You could buy that anyway though, I think there's only one hose that's different.

The standard shocks don't work well with lower springs. "Crashy" is the word that "springs" to mind :rofl: I put mine back to standard with new OEM kit after seeing how shockingly out of spec the suspension geometry was with the lowering springs. Best thing I ever did for it. The car might...

N249 doing its thing. Normal, and annoying. Bypass it and remove the ECU's ability to dump your boost air when it doesn't need to.

They're talking nonsense. You can fit any AMK/BAM ECU, there is physically no difference in either the engine or the ECU. You can either have it recoded/immobiliser removed, or you can also fit the clocks and lock barrel from the donor car, then there is no issue with the immobiliser.

Replaced one of my rear door lock modules, with the door locked shut. Many cuts and profanities later, I have a fully working rear door, puddle light and interior illumination. Thoroughly recommend the job to those who are into self torture or are very very very bored........

They're complete rubbish. Build quality is horrific and light output is woeful. OEM headlamps produce a minimum of twice as much light output.

There's a lip on the speaker aperture and the speaker itself is plastic welded into the mount, preventing you from getting your hand round the back. Rivets are the best solution, as per factory fit. I wouldn't be keen on using self tapping screws, that's just bodgetastic ;)

You need the speakers from a Leon. The Golf ones are the same part number but don't have the built in crossover next to the multi-plug. It's this crossover that allows the speakers to perform as well as they do. A Golf system is nowhere near as good. You'll also need a rivet gun to replace them.

Did you replace your sensors with OEM items? Anything other than a Bosch Lambda sensor is likely to give you problems. What is the live data from the sensor saying?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/162672527651

Will do. Working on Saturday.

Jamie, I can't PM you, your account isn't accepting PM.

You've certainly brought this back from the dead! Yes, Milltek are stainless steel. I've owned a few Milltek systems, they take a bit of tweaking to get a good fit. I have a Cobra non-resonated system on my current 1.8T with a 3" decat downpipe. It sounds better than Milltek and it's better...

Fiddly to get to, but 2 bolts and a small gasket.