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Cheers. Yeah, it's basically the cost of straightening out the chassis. It's totally original so there's nothing to come off it. About a grand's worth of brakes and tyres after going onto it in the past few months, but there's no way I can get them back, and I've nowhere to store a car for...

Well, they came back and said it's a write off with £5000 of repairs. Kinda knew it was coming since the rear quarter panel was warped and most likely the boot floor is knackered too, but still not nice to hear. One more LCR off the road... Having spent the weekend looking at similar cars...

Cheers guys, will wait and see what the engineer says. Fingers crossed! It would be a shame alright, especially when it wasn't my fault!

I fear that my beloved 2004 LCR is damaged beyond economic repair after some dosy cow wasn't paying attention and hit the car behind me in a queue, smashing it into the back of my car. It's currently at the insurers' repair place but they say they're awaiting an external engineer's assessment as...

LOL, yes that would make it a lot easier... I had assumed you'd already done that - how the hell did you remove the cable without removing the lock blank? :blink:

LOL, fair enough :) The cable can be tricky alright, but if you put a small bit of grease on the pivot part it will stay in the orientation you put it. Just move it so that it's pointing diagonally upwards and towards the outside of the door before you put the module back in the door and it...

This is an excellent guide for the Mk IV Golf, pretty much identical to the Leon and with lots of photos. It's what I followed, and it's very thorough: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1015107

@bascom As it happens, I did just need to slacken off the outside handle pull cable so I didn't strip down the door again and so don't have photos. If you've managed to get the module out of the door, this is a good guide to stripping down the electromechanical part. Testing the module...

@sockpuppet Yes, that could be it alright. I did take a photo of the position and put it back exactly where it was, but I guess differences in the adjustments after putting it all back together might mean it needs a different position. As for the cheaper locks, I might be tempted to give them...

Yeah, that should be it alright. I haven't taken it out myself, but if the electric window switches in the other doors are anything to go by, it might be quite tight and so tricky to get out without damaging the surround. Squeezing the clips from the back might be a better/easier option if you...

Well, next thing to check is if the switch itself is working properly. If you have a multimeter it should be pretty simple to see which pins correspond to which function, and whether they're working or not. I don't have the pinout myself but IIRC it was only 6 pins so not many combinations to try.

Quick one to check - the mirror controls have their own separate connection to the loom, it's not part of the window switches even though physically they're in the same panel. Are you sure the controls cable was connected back properly? It has multiple pins for the different functions so it...

Over the past while I've been having what seems to be a very common problem with my door locks: Intermittent operation. My symptoms were: Driver's door sometimes not opening via key fob Courtesy light sometimes not working for driver's door (and so fuel pump not always priming) Front...

Fitted new brake discs and pads at the front a few days ago, and just spent the weekend disassembling and reconditioning all the door lock modules on my LCR. Turns out most of them had a "new" problem other than the solder joints going - the motors were lacking torque and occasionally stopping...

It's probably already been said countless times on here already, but wanted to say a big thanks to Dave in Sere Motors! Got the parts quickly, and Dave was very helpful with me trying to sort things out after PayPal messed up the payment. Keep it up!

Okay, forgot to do this the other day, but here's my fuel cap label: (Excuse the dirt - the rest of the car is much cleaner, I swear!) So 33 PSI all round unless it's heavily loaded in which case the fronts go up to 36 and the rears go up to 45, which seems very high to me. Anyway, I did...

What does it feel like when you're braking? Is the pedal hard or soft? Is it going to the floor at the start or sinking? Is the ABS kicking in (shuddering feeling in pedal)?

I'll take a photo of my filler cap after work ;) It would make sense to have the fronts slightly higher, which is why I seem to remember the filler cap details so well.

It's on the inside of the filler cap, from memory I think it's 33 all round, and significantly more in the rears if carrying a heavy load. I go with 33 all round anyway.

136,000 Miles on my 2004 LCR and still going strong! I'm aiming to at least match my previous car, which was a Mk III Golf GTI 16V and was still going well with close to 170,000 miles on the clock before it was scrapped for being totally rusted. The engine from it lives on in a Mk II track car I...