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I've always done it 30ft-lbs then 90 degrees (1/4 turn) and 90 degrees again.

As mentioned, pad deposits. Sometimes a very spirited drive will clear them off. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

Haha, don't stress, they're layered - They're supposed to be like that :)

Sounds like you've got it all covered :) obviously new oil/filter too. Good luck :D

Replace the head bolts, for the price of them it's a no brainer, they're 10 year old bolts and gone through God knows how many heat cycles now.

Pop down to a local toolshop, you just need a long ribe set for the head bolts and the hex like sockets are readily available at Halfords etc. :) If you're handy with a spanner give it a go, just make sure the head bolts get torqued properly and triple check the timing before starting it

Just unplug the N75, it'll run actuator pressure then

Gutted for you... If you were closer I'd give you a hand! Might be worth considering a large port head as you've got to replace it anyway. I'd suggest pulling the head before deciding on head or full engine though, chances are you've not done the pistons etc. much damage but it's worth...

These engines are very common for sludge issues (mostly due to service intervals initially being too long). Reason for your flashing oil light is oil pressure, lucky you got away with driving it :) Fingers crossed no further damage has been done

Welcome along, good to see another one from South Wales area :)

How about get some pictures of your connectors and rough locations up and we could try and help point you to where they need to go?

Ok, thought it may have been a certain dodgy seller. Def. sounds like clutch slip but it's had plenty of time to bed in... How's the pedal feel? Maybe it needs bleeding again or something.

Where did you buy the clutch from?

As mentioned above, they're identical apart from one has AMK stamped on it :)

Holy thread resurrection! :) However, as it appears you searched, here's a good guide I found elsewhere from 2 minutes of Googling - http://testvb.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18619777

That's normal, it's just where the oil vapours and moisture in the air have mixed to form that horrible gunk. That's why you need to clean it out every now and then, more-so with a catch can I find :)

Disconnect the MAF and try starting it, if it's due to the leak then it'll at least run fine at idle with the MAF disconnected. Another thing, when I replaced my turbo, cranking the engine over with the injectors/coilpacks disconnected would prevent it from starting again when I plugged it...

Could be, but I doubt it would be suddenly to the extremities you describe. Check your turbo first I would, it's the easiest currently :)

Check for play in the turbo, if the pickup was blocked I'd be betting on the low oil pressure having killed the turbo seals. Now that the oil pressure is restored, it is too high for the seals to hold back.

I came from the Evo world (specifically an 8), I think I'd have another in the future but as bête noir mentions - the repair bills on them are awful. Absolutely everything is overpriced and they're high maintenance. I got rid of mine as I was never using it, I saw it as almost like having...