1.8T sounds like a Dyson when starting from cold? A Secondary Air Pump repair guide

DubSteve68

Active Member
Nov 4, 2010
125
6
Up North
Does your 1.8T sound like a Dyson (or Henry or whatever) when starting from cold? This seems to be a common complaint, and no great surprise given how badly these things are put together.


The problem is caused by air leaking from the pump due to it being held together by six rivets which eventually corrode and fall apart, ruining any chance of an effective seal.

The job itself is pretty easy and can be done in well under an hour. Tools required are a 10mm spanner, cross-head screwdriver, small flat-head screwdriver, T20 Torx bit and a drill. Parts required are six bolts, washers and nuts. Use either M4 or M5 x40mm bolts (M5 gives a nice snug fit if used with a 5mm drill bit). I would suggest using nyloc nuts, the only reason I didn't was I didn't have any and I couldn't exactly use the car to go buy some...


Step 1. Remove the centre cover from under the engine.

I'm not going into detail here as it's obvious how it comes off, and if you struggle then you should really seek adult assistance. Screws are a combination of cross-head and Torx.


Step 2. Locate the pump.

Dead easy, it's at the front of the engine accessible from below.

DSC02892pumprect.jpg



Step 3. Remove the mounting nuts.

There are three 10mm securing nuts, all are fairly easy to access (arrowed). The topmost one has slightly restricted access but it's not a major problem.

DSC02891nutsarrowed.jpg



Step 4. Disconnect the pump.

There are three connections - two air hoses and a two-pin power connector. The power connection (arrowed in red) has a small latch, insert the small flat-head screwdriver into the latch to release it.

DSC02891connections.jpg


The two air connections (arrowed in yellow) are released by squeezing the serrated sections on either side and pulling the hose upwards as shown below. There may be some resistance, giving the air hose a wiggle while pulling it upwards should do the trick.

DSC02899airhosearrowed.jpg



Step 4. Remove the pump.

At first it looks like there isn't enough room to get it out, but there is enough space if you follow the path shown below. It helps to pull the power steering hose down to give a little extra clearance as the air pump needs to come out over the PAS pump, not below it...

DSC02892removeseqarrowed.jpg



Step 5. Have a cuppa/smoke/whatever and check the air pump over.

Here it is...

DSC02894.jpg


This is the business-end where we need to get to work...

DSC02895.jpg



Step 6. Drill out the rivets.

Pretty straightforward, drill the heads off from this side. Try to secure the pump as best as you can so there's no unexpected trips to A&E. As mentioned earlier I used a 5mm drill to take the heads off and bore the holes out slightly, they are too snug as standard for 5mm bolts and 4mm bolts are a slightly loose fit. Rivet heads arrowed in yellow...

DSC02895rivets.jpg



Step 7. Fit new bolts.

Self-explanatory, fit the nuts, bolts and washers in place of the old rivets. Here's mine...

DSC02898.jpg


DSC02896.jpg


Much better!


Step 8. Refit the pump.

Again, pretty easy if you've got this far. Fit the pump into its bracket, refit its securing nuts and replace the air and power connections. Pull the air hoses down and latch into place (giving them a wiggle if necessary).


All being well the secondary air pump will be almost silent when starting from cold, and you will have saved a small fortune by not having to buy a new one. Hurrah!


Cheers, DubSteve
 
Last edited:

kaspa_dtz

Active Member
May 21, 2011
84
0
Would this have any effect on the way the car perfroms? or is it purely for cold start purposes?
 

DubSteve68

Active Member
Nov 4, 2010
125
6
Up North
Would this have any effect on the way the car perfroms? or is it purely for cold start purposes?

Hi,

No it's not really a performance thing. As far as I know the pump is just there to inject extra air to the catalytic converter, in order to quickly bring it up to its operating temperature while the engine is in its warmup phase.

DubSteve :)
 

Klone

Active Member
Aug 24, 2010
1,514
2
Clacton On Sea
just to add, i have read about some mk1 cupras suffering from juddering and backfires when the SAI is running...

i even have that problem... it sometimes coughs when pulling away. if i sit still until the SAI goes off the car runs fine....

i can hear it making noise when running so i might do this fix... cheers steve :)
 

DubSteve68

Active Member
Nov 4, 2010
125
6
Up North
just to add, i have read about some mk1 cupras suffering from juddering and backfires when the SAI is running...

i even have that problem... it sometimes coughs when pulling away. if i sit still until the SAI goes off the car runs fine....

i can hear it making noise when running so i might do this fix... cheers steve :)

Good luck fella, please report back if it fixes your juddering/coughing problem (I suffer those too but I put it down to excess drink and smoke hehe).

Cheers, DubSteve
 

bogs

Active Member
Jul 9, 2011
43
0
Gillingham kent
just a quick update for any one who has this noise but has changed to induction kit ,there is a pipe that connects to the airbox if micky mouse filter on it also makes this noise.
 

Pew.

Active Member
Mar 23, 2012
1,451
142
Scotland
Sorry for the bump but i went to do this today and noticed the air pump on my 05 plate cupra is not where it is in the above pictures lol and theres no signs of it being removed and blanked off. I get the hoover noise when cold starting as well and it goes away when the choke dies down.

I couldn't see the pump anywhere else, and suggestions?
 
Last edited:

Pew.

Active Member
Mar 23, 2012
1,451
142
Scotland
Ignore that ^

I found it, its towards the top of the engine, just on to the let of the fuse box under the intake manifold
 

Pew.

Active Member
Mar 23, 2012
1,451
142
Scotland
FYI mk4 ibiza people, our airpumps are slightly different in that they are not held together with rivets, they are bonded together

2012-05-20_09-56-21_788.jpg


I removed mine today because of the hoover noise, there is a few bits ou can clearly see the the bonding has come apart and left small caps, i just used some silicon to seal it back up.
 

RDS1972

Active Member
Dec 19, 2011
265
0
Essex
I have to say, I spent ages on this job this afternoon, and I have NO IDEA how you squeeze the pump out as described.
I ended up having to split the back end of the pump off (The section where the electrical connection goes on) and it was still a real struggle. Things were nt helped by the fact the car does nt have a splash tray, so the securing nuts were rusted in place.
It's done anyway, but time will tell if it's all gone back together ok.
Mines a 1.8T AUG, just in case it makes any odds.
 
May 1, 2011
630
0
North West
You'll need a blanking plate yes forge do one quite cheap. I havent had an MOT since but I think it would only fail if my EML came back on. I've kept it just incase
 
May 1, 2011
630
0
North West
I didnt do it myself but you just cram it in where the SAI would have plugged in, solder if you're feeling knifty then shrink wrap and tie to stop moisture getting in