Hello All, I have a 98' SEAT Arosa 1.0 with engine code AER. with 35,000 miles on the clock. It was a great runner until it was parked up at the side of the house 2 years and 8 months ago. I started it every 6 months or so and ran it for a while with no problems. The Saturday before last I decided to get it back on the road so jump started it and it started first time and settled down to tick over nicely for 20 mins or so until I turned it off. As the battery was knackered I ordered a new one that week (reasonable quality VARTA). This was fitted this weekend, unfortunately when I came to start it it was running really bad. like it was only on 3 cylinders. Instead of persisting I decided that the fuel was most probably past it, so I got hold of a new fuel filter, drained the tank and filled up with fresh fuel. The old fuel was the colour of Whiskey so it wasn't good. No change. still very lumpy. Checked the Dizy and all HT connections etc, Nothing obviously loose etc. Tried unplugging cylinder 1, this made no difference to the running, 2 and 3 caused the engine to stall, 4 also made no difference. All HT's seems to be arcing away strongly to the metal shrouds on all cylinders. Checked the plugs for damage and cleaned (looked really good actually) however, 1 and 4 were wet. Didn't have any spare plugs or leads so sprayed the whole area in WD40 to see what happened. started and ran beautifully, 5 mins then reverted to running badly.Tried the spay again, but still ran badly. Decided to compression test it just to clear up any concern about valves. Did this with a cheap AM-Tech unit which I know from testing my Ghia is not correct and it gave 85 psi across all cylinders which is very low, but that's the crappy gauge. the important thing was they were all identical. Checked the connections to the injectors for security etc. Tried to start again, but now would not start at all. Just the odd fire and backfire through the throttle. Checked the dizzy again and found it to be cracked. GREAT. ordered a new on. This arrived today. Fitted it, still the same. Wont start. Checked the leads and coil with my timing strobe and there is power traveling down the leads from the dizzy, so I guess the coil, dizzy and cap are ok so removed all the plugs and checked them for firing. They are all sparking, how well I am unsure but there is a blue spark present for all of them. All of the plugs except one from number 2 cylinder were wet and smelled of fuel. Number two is the one that is firing now and then, so was dry and sooty. So, fuel is present along with a spark. Borrowed Snap-on Solus Ultra scan tool - Initially it was displaying 6 fault codes - 00533 Idle speed regulation control limit exceed. 01087 Basic setting not performed, signal outside tolerances. 00524 Knock sensor 1 (G16) open circuit/short with ground - intermittent. 00537 O2 Sensor Regulation control limit exceeded - intermittent. 00518 Throttle position sensor (G69) open circuit/short with power - intermittent. 00530 Throttle position sensor (G88) open circuit /short with power - Intermittent. I then reset the fault codes and attempted to restart the engine. It then came up with only two fault codes - 00533 Idle speed regulation control limit exceed. 01087 Basic setting not performed, signal outside tolerances. Reset the service indicator and performed an instrumentation/ calibration check. Cleared the 2 codes above and tried one last time, came up with the same 2 codes on attempting to start. 00533 Idle speed regulation control limit exceed. 01087 Basic setting not performed, signal outside tolerances. The engine will just about start and run if you hold the throttle open. Sound/feels like its only running on 2 (or even 1 if that is possible) Has anyone used a Snap-on Solus Ultra for a throttle body realignment, is this possible with a Solus as I cant fine anything out about it regarding realignment of throttle bodies. Any idea's ?