Another miles per gallon thread...

Tonyuk74

Active Member
Sep 1, 2014
185
1
Barnsley
500 mile round trip over weekend mainly motorway showing 225 miles on trip and avg 54.5 mpg can't complain really. Sat at 75 with cruise on.
 

barney01

Active Member
Apr 21, 2015
12
0
Lucky you,my needle is bang on the halfway mark showing 195miles app33.2mpg,the dealership is taking it in when the service guy is going to take it home (via the motorway)to check if I'm telling the truth about the extremely poor mpg,in 2 weeks!!so between now and then I need as many possible reasons for this poor mpg for their mechanics to check,flobadob has give me a few good possibility and any more from you guys would be most welcome
 

Flobadob

Active Member
Apr 6, 2015
83
1
Warwickshire
Im glad to hear that the garage is finally taking you seriously, as you have identfied it before the warranty runs out then its down to them to fix it even if it takes it out of warranty. Another thought is to get the garage to put a monitor on it. This will track whats happening while you are driving. The garage may not have one but Seat will. My mate (we call him the Engine Whisperer) works for Ford and when the Techs cant fix it he is sent in (A Team music playing in the back ground)

This is what he gave me to check prior to car hunting

Please find below a list of the points I would be inclined to evaluate :---

1) If the engine is Cold (overnight cold soak) then it should crank over quickly, usually around 220 – 285 rpm and have an even tone during the cranking period
2) Healthy engine are designed to “fire up” in 0.5 of a second, (designed intent) however up to 2 seconds may be deemed acceptable, be it petrol or diesel
3) If you have longer periods of cranking this could mean there may be a weakness either with “Compressions, Pilot Injection flow for diesel engines, or in the case of diesel engines the starter motor is worn and drawing too much electrical power which then starves the engine control system (pcm) of electrical power, this will cause the pcm to reboot once or several times during this starting phase, end result uncontrolled amounts of fuel will be injected into the engine which will result in premature engine wear or engine back firing and / or possible hydraulic lock which bends a conrod (major expense)
4) The engine should start cleanly on all four cylinders, and run smoothly without any undue smoke emissions from exhaust
5) There should also be no metallic noise from the engine due to low oil pressure and the hydraulic cam followers pumping up, they should be quiet virtually straight away
6) Check engine oil level when cold and see what it looks like and how much is present, DO NOT OBSERVE THE FIRST READING, DIP IT THREE TIMES, as retained air pressure in the dip stick tube will push the oil down and on some engines indicate no oil is present
7) With the engine turned OFF look at FEAD belts (alternator and A/C belts) twist them over where possible to see if the fabric is cracking or they are hairy or delaminating
8) When the engine is running look at the belt run position is stable and not shuffling from side to side, or jumping up and down if the engine has an automatic tensioner, some belts are “stretchy belts” which means they do not have a tensioner pulley, if it does have a tensioner pulley then observe the pulley movement at idle speed does the tensioner oscillate a lot? If so this may mean the alternator one way clutch is seized common on (vw 1.9 engines)
9) Allow engine to reach normal operational temperature again during this period look at the exhaust for undue smoke emissions and changes to engine noise or vibrations, taking care to depress the clutch several times and listen for any random or heavy knocking noise from transmission, noise from the DMF (dual mass flywheel) and clutch
10) Does the clutch operate smoothly
11) With the engine at hot idle remove the dipstick and observe the tube to see if it looks like Thomas the tank engine or someone puffing on a pipe( i.e. smoke emissions as a cylinder fires) if so then the engine is worn or has internal cylinder leakage and would require a cylinder leakage test to access the wear or photographic inspection of each cylinder
12) Listen to the turbo should be quiet with no whine or whistle, rev the engine or blip the engine several times and does it sound like a “police car siren” if so the turbo has dynamic imbalance which means it has a chipped blade on the exhaust impellor
13) Check the VIN numbers on the vehicle
14) Look for full service history with correct and proper dealer receipts the receipts should have a WIP number visible or Job number rather than the service book stamp which may just be anyone’s stamp
15) If you do see smoke from the exhaust it may be wise to get an Emission test carried out and this will give a readout on part per million smoke emission
16) If possible get a noise recording of the engine starting up and running for 30 seconds afterwards and also one when fully warm and get an engine speed change during these recordings ie blip the throttle a couple of times.
17) Check coolant degas tank for “tide mark” inside tank and see if coolant has been topped up or any crustation of anti-freeze solution around cap or inner wing area
18) Any evidence of oil in coolant FORGET IT and if there is check the front brake discs and pads as oil may be ejected from the degas tank down onto the o/s/f brake assy or n/.s/f brake assy depending where the degas bottle may be located
19) Check exhaust for grounding damage if damaged also check temperature sensor in exhaust for body / engine contact they bend


Re point 16 I walked away from perfectly good looking cars because of the sound recordings I made of the engine identifying a issue / or future problem. The analysis of the sound recordings through a spectrum analyser was amazing. when I get 15 posts I will lob one up for all to see.

So what I am saying is that if the Techs dont/cant fix it then Seat will also have a Engine Whisperer they can call......

So if you have a problem stick with your guns and get them to fix it.
 
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Bbeettaa

Active Member
Feb 20, 2012
26
0
2010 (60) 143 SE Tech Estate...getting on average low to mid-40's when driving around 70-80mph.

Is this similar to other people? My 2012 exeo saloon (company car) got considerably more then this :(
 

decadent

Active Member
Apr 1, 2012
421
1
Herts
I have a 170 and usually get between 500-550 miles per tank. I once got nearly 600 and was pretty chuffed but had to be careful.

I don't find the car particularly economical but I don't always drive with economy in mind!
 

Tonyuk74

Active Member
Sep 1, 2014
185
1
Barnsley
Bbeettaa. I was around them figs when I first got the car but with careful driving iv managed to increase to keep it around the 50 mark.
 

Jimrod

Active Member
Oct 10, 2014
61
0
The 143 and 170 have different gearing so it's not just about the engine, no idea why they've done this as it's a diesel family saloon/estate so "sporty" close-ratio gearing is pretty pointless... 2000rpm is around 70mph in my 170 and if I sit at that it'll average around 50mpg over time. At 80mph it drops to around 42-43mpg.

I'd say my average for my daily 13 mile commute, around 20-25 minutes driving, starting and ending in towns with an 8 mile dual-carriageway stretch in the middle is around 40mpg, some day's it'll be high 30's, others low 40's depending on lights, traffic and temperature.
 
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Bbeettaa

Active Member
Feb 20, 2012
26
0
Bbeettaa. I was around them figs when I first got the car but with careful driving iv managed to increase to keep it around the 50 mark.



Do you mean keeping it at sub 70? I have done 53k on the clock now, it seems my mpg drops off a cliff over 70 odd and above.
 
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Tonyuk74

Active Member
Sep 1, 2014
185
1
Barnsley
I stick to around 75 mph on motorway and now I can keep it around 50 mpg by been more how can I put it. Aware of what's going on as in pull out to overtake early rather than getting stuck behind a lorry then having to accelerate. coast or back off when going downhill. Let the car speed up before a hill. I'm probably hated by other drivers because my speed vary between 70 and 80 lol. Someone did mention try driving to the instant cons and just take note how a little bit more throttle can make a big diffrence on the display. You will prob find that just easing off a little bit will change instant mpg but not really feel the car speed change.
 

Sausageinabun

Active Member
Jul 5, 2014
241
1
Manchester
When I had my yearly service and MOT a while back, they did a 'Fuel system Flush'. I have no idea what that consists of, however since then I am getting about 660 miles per tankful, up by about 50 prior to the flush.

I do over 1k miles per month mainly motorways up to 80mph where possible.

09 143 Diesel Sport with 44k on the clock now!
 

NeilMcK

Active Member
Dec 31, 2007
70
7
Central Scotland
Hey, my 143ST with Bluefin Remap is averaging around 46-48mpg depending on variables - that's calculating from fill-up rather than relying on computer, which is optimistic.

That's mixed, some motorway at 75-ish.

Weirdly, when it does an active regen, economy jumps on the display to 55+..

I don't use premium fuels but standard non-supermarket and also millers every other fill-up.

Local garage offered terraclean for £100 but not sure if it'd make any difference? Anybody tried it?

Not too disappointed, but I have changed my style to be more economical as if I drive it like my old Altea then it drops to 42-43, and my Altea averaged 50 with a Revo remap.

Neil.
 
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ajf3011

Active Member
Jan 30, 2015
82
0
Burnham
Local garage offered terraclean for £100 but not sure if it'd make any difference? Anybody tried it.

The advice I had was it's a good product but sees best results on older engines, engines that have done a lot of stop/start work or maybe not been serviced as well as they should.
Because I do mostly motorway driving, have the oil changed twice a year and tend to use Shell v-nitro diesel my mechanic suggested it wasn't worth doing on mine at the moment.
I was recommended a Forte injector cleaner which is designed for the piezo injectors the Exeo uses, usually stick a bottle in the tank every 3 months or so.
 

richdot

Active Member
Mar 5, 2015
123
0
You guys need to try lucas injector treatment, our customers rave about it. I use shell nitro and use this lucas stuff every other full up, it's American based company so does exactly what it says on the label.
 

Flobadob

Active Member
Apr 6, 2015
83
1
Warwickshire
Lucky you,my needle is bang on the halfway mark showing 195miles app33.2mpg,the dealership is taking it in when the service guy is going to take it home (via the motorway)to check if I'm telling the truth about the extremely poor mpg,in 2 weeks!!so between now and then I need as many possible reasons for this poor mpg for their mechanics to check,flobadob has give me a few good possibility and any more from you guys would be most welcome

Any movement Barney?
 

barney01

Active Member
Apr 21, 2015
12
0
No bud it's next week the dealership is taking it,so I intend to take a snag list with me,but I don't expect any resolution from them,for instance the lumbar support plastic handle fell off as it was broken,they told me they replaced it guess what - it fell off again the gangsters had superglued it on!!!
 

richdot

Active Member
Mar 5, 2015
123
0
Did 530 miles to 61 litres of shell v power.

Worked out about 39.50 mpg not brilliant to be honest mainly town and 18/20 mile a day commute to work. Odd long run.

143 bhp 2.0tdi estate
 

Mrski1

Active Member
May 12, 2008
233
0
Aberdeen
In the near 4k miles I have had my car I have averaged 44.65mpg with a mixture of town driving and longer runs at the weekend. The last tank was one of the worst at 42mpg, but this is when the fuel pump failed on my 143 Sport Tech, so far the mpg on the display seems to be reading a bit higher with the new fuel pump fitted.
 
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