Audi S3 GT3582R stroker Build (previously GT3071r)

[tufftybloke]

wow..mine is full of dust, no matter what i do. i have the same problem with the exterior of the car. dust is a big issue in my country.
i have to clean my air filter each 1500 miles
your car looks very nice!

is it still very drivable in town? i mean...is it still a all day car?

Perfectly drivable... I use the car as my daily runner at the moment (I have a Mk2 Golf I normally use in the week) and my trip to work is a mix of country roads, hills and cross town (stop/start) driving... I can still use cruise control at 30 and 40 mph and average 24mpg
...

All good

<tuffty/>

 

[bogdan_wrc]

wonderful. i was afraid that any turbo bigger than the stock one would kill the day to day drive-ability.
i would like to upgrade to a GT28RS or IHI VF34...in the future.
i didnt keep track where is the software made for your upgrades?
sorry

 

[tufftybloke]

...i didnt keep track where is the software made for your upgrades?
sorry

Its one of Bill's own Badger 5 custom maps...

<tuffty/>

 

[tufftybloke]

Ok, quick update on progress... I haven't done much more on the mapping side of things as I haven't really found the time as yet... I have a new map that should be addressing the higher RPM fuelling issue but not had a chance to get on the dyno and tbh it may end up being on hold for a little while as I really need to get the VVT cam chain tensioner unit changed and the wastegate ported on the turbo to stop the boost creep I am getting... last dyno run was to establish how bad this was and I bypassed the N75 etc going straight to the actuator... the boost initially hit 12psi at 3.9k rpm (actuator pressure) then crept to 23psi at 7.8k rpm but the interesting thing was it made 374bhp at 7.8k rpm with no sign of the curve peaking...

Not much point in pursuing this really until I have sorted the turbo out etc...

Anyhoo, I still have plenty to do and so cracked on with sorting the Jetex filter out so I could fit the airbox cover...

How it looked initially...

To get the cover on I needed to get the Jetex filter straight in the lower section of the airbox so I used a 76mm 45 degree silicon elbow chopping it quite close to the bend as I needed it short enough to extend from the MAF and still keep the filter in airbox... I also trimmed a bit off the 90 degree bend coming off the TIP to sit it all back enough to fit...

With that looking good I then cut the top off the upper section of the airbox as I wanted the cover to sit properly when fitted so the best way is to use what was already there...

...top removed...

...then notched out the sides where the Jetex filter would sit so the frame would fit over nicely...

...finally... using an 80mm alloy coupler (which was a sodding tight fit!!), I fitted the Jetex filter to the 45 degree bend and clipped it all together...

...fitted the top trim cover and screwed it all down using the original screws etc...

...happy with the result...

Will update again soon when I have sorted the turbo out...

<tuffty/>

 

[tufftybloke]

Got a week in Feb booked off at work so I can take the head of (again! although not as many times as Welly yet... lol) and port out the wastegate to sort the boost creep issue and fit the new VVT cam chain tensioner I bought... good a good deal on a new unit from ebay, it does appear to be a pattern part but looks very good quality... cost me £99 vs nearly £300 for an OEM and thats at prices I can get them for!!

Not going to be doing much else to the car until I have done this bit of work... I do plan to revisit my FMIC as I think I have out grown it but Bill and I are hopefully planning to do some tests to check pressure drop across the core and then using the FMIC off his race car (or similar) to see if there is any difference etc...

Whatever happens I will be looking for a larger core and maybe look at tweaking the design a bit... I will be popping over the AH to discuss this further March time I think..

Had a late night at the workshop tonight fitting an AEM WMI kit to an Ibiza... very impressive kit, looks way better than the Devils Own with a 200psi pump and a feature rich controller... will keep an eye on that kit for mine I think...

As the roads were quiet on the way home I thought I would use the Liquid gauge for another go at a 0-60 time... I need to get grippier tyres I think as there was a bit of wheel spin (I have fairly new tyres on the rears) but pleased with the result so far considering the mapping not finished and the old girl isn't putting out her final power output...

Might have a go at the 0-100 time... when I can find a suitable private road of course ;P

Will update when I have sorted the turbo out...

<tuffty/>

 

[Scott-o]

That's cracking, bet it's going to be savage when 100% complete!

Love the airbox mod too, the bay looks great, nice and subtle

 

[tufftybloke]

Righty... made a start this afternoon, I have all next week off and the plan is to port the wastegate to stop the boost creep, fix the small coolant leaks from the turbo hard pipes, replace the VVT/cam chain tensioner and if I have the time replace the front strut tops with harder/uprated LCR ones, new bearings and replace the front wheel bearings as there is a little hum coming from one of them... I also need to replace the cheap pattern part inboard drive shaft gaiter by the down pipe as its turning to dust... knew I should have got an OEM one... they are far more resilient... might have to see if I can add some extra heat shielding in to help protect the gaiter more...

Anyhoo... usual story, remove half the engine bay to get to the head...

...Bill and I lifted the head off... awkward bit of kit with the turbo and all its lines on

...seeing as I had cleaned up the pistons when I fitted the large port on and have only done nearly 5k miles since the pistons are a little coked... the engine was running rich on idle and making some bizarre lambda correction swings... pretty sure this is a symptom of the dodgy cam chain tensioner as it was fine before... other than the bit of carbon build up everything else was fine... no det marks (not that I expected any) and bores all clean...

...removed the turbo which is also still looking in good shape... comp housing is totally free of oil (thanks to not having the PCV venting oil back into the intake, and having a ball bearing turbo of course)... hotside will come off tomorrow and then the wastegate can be ported... then weld a bead round the edges of the water pipes as they leak a little when cold and fix the small weap from the other pipe...

Other than a little carbon build up which I will clean up the head is in great shape so all looking good...

...all in all a good afternoons tinkering... although there was a bit of a fail on my behalf and just as well I removed the inlet mani... I took the effort to blend the transition phenolic gasket and the large port/small port gasket but then in my haste to get the car back together and give Bill his ramp back (due to the delays of getting the turbo fixed etc...) I managed to fit the small port gasket on the largeport side and the largeport gasket on the small port side... which obviously doesn't help flow...DOH!!!!

Ah well... all part of the experience

Back on it tomorrow....

<tuffty/>

 

[tufftybloke]

Busy day.... started by removing the hotside from the turbo so Bill could give it a tickle with the Dremel...

Bill attacked it with the Dremel and the wastegate went from this...

...to this...

Then I started on replacing the can chain tensioner/VVT unit... there are plenty of guides on the interweb for doing this and it can be done without removing the head... all you essentially need to do is undo the inlet cam...

...tensioner removed being careful not to alter the cam timing...

...really impressed with the quality of the 'ebay' unit vs the OEM one...

...don't forget to replace the gasket and seal (available as a kit from Audi)..

...unit fitted...

...cam caps refitted and ready to go...

I have now cleaned the coked up head and pistons and will be fitting the head back on tomorrow once the water pipes are sorted and I have bought a new tensioner damper as my current one (20k miles old) is not well and the belt felt quite loose when I was about to take it off in prep to remove the head... and Audi don't change these on a cambelt service!!! madness!!

<tuffty/>

 

[tufftybloke]

Car is now back together so I spent a couple of hours on the dyno to see whats what... boost creep issue is no longer an issue... Yay!

Held around 10psi to the redline on actuator pressure but fuelling is still going rich after 7k... not due to EGT's measured at the probe as they were just over 800 degrees and protection doesn't kick in until 925 degrees...

Did some runs then using the MBC/N75 in parallel on the soft spring and wound right in... started at around 17psi which is much better than before as the boost was going all over the place... increasing the boost via the MBC still only seemed to induce a bigger spike followed by a wobbly lower hold pressure...

Changed the MBC spring to the stiffer one and bingo... 22psi...

Then tested the pressure drop from the turbo to the manifold.... 32psi at the turbo initially!!! a difference of 8psi tailing off to around 5 or 6psi.... Bit too much methinks and it would appear I have maxed my FMIC... need to get on and visit AH Fabs...

Airflow wise I maxed the MAF from 6k on at 292.58 g/s.... Will try and sort some graphs out later once I have them sorted..

Minor fail of the day seems to be my rattle that I thought was the cam chain tensioner... still rattling but for a different reason I think... oil pressure... there is pressure there (but have knocked the dyno runs on the head for the time being) but when the oil gets hot I get a fault appear (16395/P0011/000017 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)) so thinking the pressure on low revs isn't high enough... I did test drive the car after she had cooled down a bit and the code hasn't come back yet...

Will look into that one a bit further before making a final diagnosis but I am just going to replace the oil pump anyway and then at least I know its done...

That is about it for now I think tuning wise... not going to push the engine until the pump is changed and I need to sort a larger FMIC out to get less pressure drop...

Boo...

<tuffty/>

 

[barnsley]

dont want to sound funny paul but are the cams fitted right when both are lined up how many links are there in the chain
ive never had the code from oil pressure only the noise

 

[tufftybloke]

dont want to sound funny paul but are the cams fitted right when both are lined up how many links are there in the chain
ive never had the code from oil pressure only the noise

Thanks mate no offence taken I did check when I first built the head on the original tensioner and didn't remove the cam from the chain when I did the tensioner swap this time... I did a cursory check when I put it back together and both cam marks lined up but tbh I didn't double check the link count as I was careful not to remove the cam from the chain and was right before I did the work...

I will however check it over the weekend when I get 5 mins.. I was considering this anyway for my own peace of mind tbh..

The code doesn't always come back straight away... I drove the car home Thursday afternoon after clearing the code and it didn't come back until much much later... not sure if thats indicative of anything particular but I didn't drive the car hard that day as I had the kids with me and was wary of the oil pressure..

If you have any other suggestions mate then I am all ears... was particularly careful to double check all the timing etc getting the belt on

Would that not throw an 'incorrect correlation' fault like slipping a tooth on the timing belt?

<tuffty/>

 

[IbanezDan51]

If you're thinking its down to the tensioner ive seen them out by a tooth before but no oil light.

Did you use a new one or re-use your old one? They are prone to stretching believe it or not and that can knock it way out.

Maybe get an oil pressure gauge and keep an eye on it? When my exhaust valves went after cranking it over several times the oil light came on and I thought I had a bigger problem, got a new head and all was fine...odd! Could it be a faulty sender?

 

[tufftybloke]

If you're thinking its down to the tensioner ive seen them out by a tooth before but no oil light.

Did you use a new one or re-use your old one? They are prone to stretching believe it or not and that can knock it way out.

Maybe get an oil pressure gauge and keep an eye on it? When my exhaust valves went after cranking it over several times the oil light came on and I thought I had a bigger problem, got a new head and all was fine...odd! Could it be a faulty sender?

Not getting an oil light mate just a fault code and a rattly idle... engine drives much smoother than it did before swapping the unit out tbh.... used a brand new chain when I first put the large port together 5k miles ago...

I did an oil pressure test on the dyno a week or so prior to doing the work and on hot idle I was getting around 20psi and on full chat about 80psi? (can't remember the actual figure but sure it was over 80psi...)

Seems to be conflicting info on what the pressure should be and VCDS oil pressure test consists of a result that just says... 'OK'

Still gonna change the pump for peace of mind and get a new pick up too

<tuffty/>

 

[barnsley]

only reason im askin is i had a timimg problem with the chain when my head came back form porting fully built up froma well know company timing marks lined up so i just fitted it though its got to be right not the first time they have done a head got it up and running fault code in turned out to be not enough links in the chain from timing mark to timing mark

just in case heres how many links you need to have its 16 when i stripped mine was in 15 one short


http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=240036

 

[tufftybloke]

only reason im askin is i had a timimg problem with the chain when my head came back form porting fully built up froma well know company timing marks lined up so i just fitted it though its got to be right not the first time they have done a head got it up and running fault code in turned out to be not enough links in the chain from timing mark to timing mark

Will definitely check that out, thanks bud...

16 links IIRC?

<tuffty/>

 

[barnsley]

ya that right 16 picture in the linky to help you out mate

 

[tufftybloke]

Cheers

<tuffty/>

 

[IbanezDan51]

Is it the head thats rattling on idle? As I said, they can be about 16 teeth in but the chain will be loosish when the tensioner is compeltely wound down and it should be reasonably tight even then. Had a similar problem on a car in Nicks workshop and it was down to the chain being slightly stretched (odd as it seems). It was rattling and hitting the top of the rocker cover.

Dan

 

[8bit]

I had my rocker cover gasket changed just before Christmas and when I got the car back it had that code 16395 "over-advanced". Cleared it and it came back, cleared again then got 16396 "over-retarted". No other discernable symptoms tho, just if I cleared the codes then drove the car even for a few mins the EML would (usually) come on and it would be one or other code.

One day the EML went off by itself and when I checked and cleared the code, it never came back. Might be a different problem Tuffty but check it's always exactly the same code each time, if it alternates between the two then it might just be that the adjuster isn't moving freely I guess, or maybe just cos the sensor's been disturbed perhaps?

 

[tufftybloke]

Quick update...

I have now had a chance to change the oil pump.... was pleased to see the sump still looking good after around 15/20k of motoring since I started the work on the car...

...removed the old pump which still looks ok tbh but peace of mind etc...

...refitted the pump and cleaned out the pickup.. I would have just fitted a new one but Bill didn't have on on the shelf... it wasn't clogged or damaged so all good...

Having the sump off gave me a chance to look at how clean the engine was still so pleased with my current 5/6k oil change regime...

Sadly though this didn't cure the rattling top end entirely... its is much quieter and the engine seems much better and smoother at lower revs but the rattle on idle is still there so I have come to the conclusion that the highish mileage of the large port head I currently have (200k I think) maybe a little more worn than first thought...

My current thought is that excessive follower bore wear is causing the oil pressure in general in the head to be a little lower than normal and the followers aren't getting all the oil they need and thus getting the rattle... I also think this could be the cause of my running issues at low rpm on part throttle where I get random hiccups from the engine that feel like hitting limp (which technically my ECU no longer can do properly)... the issue manifests itself from around 3k to 4k rpm in gears like second on part throttle where the car is gradually building speed/revs then hits a huge flat spot that feels like a boost pipe coming off and my current theory is that the oil pressure drops a little allowing the load of the cam lobes to compress the followers a little and thus create a flat spot... under WOT acceleration all feels good but its slow acceleration of 'town' style driving where this seems more evident..

I could also have buggered followers of course but I cannot remember having a rattling top end when they were in the AMK head and the issue has been less frequent (although just as random which suggests its not mapping related) since fitting both the new cam tensioner and the new oil pump...

The only thing left to do here really is to eliminate the head as an issue by just getting another... I may end up with another small port I guess as large port heads are thin on the ground and I can look at sourcing one from a newer 20v motor as I am going to avoid anything with space miles on it... I may also change all the followers yet but they aren't cheap to buy costing just over £20 a pop at ECP and just over £200 (plus postage, tax etc) to import a full set...

Anyhoo... I also spent a bit of time measuring up for a larger FMIC... Alex at AH Fabs suggested the core he uses for his cossie FMIC's

25 rows compared to 13 on the current AH Fabs S3 FMIC... same depth but taller and a tad wider... so cut a template out to see where the core would fit compared to the current one... I fitted the template behind the original FMIC lining it up at the bottom... quite a bit bigger!..

End tanks and outlets are much further into the curvature of the bumper...

...and with the bumper on the top of the core will protrude out from the top grille... (black mark indicates depth of the core)...

...so... won't actual fit then! boooo

Back to the drawing board then... will have a chat with Alex next week to discuss core options... one option I want to look into is a deeper core say 76mm odd maybe... I need more flow more than cooling ability and I reckon I can get the outlets at the top like the pro alloy one here...

...the S3 has headlight washers in the way of the pipe run pictured above so I will have to change the route a bit but I reckon I could get something like this to work...

Onwards and upwards!

<tuffty/>