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Discussion in 'Mk1 Leon FAQ's (1M) 2000-2006' started by godber225r, Jun 5, 2009.
Fuel pressure regulator
Hi all i have wired my autogauge up this way however no lights what so ever. Could this be a faulty gauge? Do all the wires go into the same block, or do you use the one behind the dimmer switch?
I've jus done mine today exactly as per the guide and it works perfectly! Thanks!
dreago - how have you connected the wires? I used scotchlok crimp connectors but had to really squeeze them with pliers as the blade didn't cut through to the wire.
Hi. As I couldn't get an oil tamp gauge to match, I have now bought a matching boost gauge and oil temp from Glowshift. The wiring is the same principal. Do any of them go In to the dimmer switch or all on the light switch block? I am using crimps aswell.
All in the light switch block. Note that if you want to test it before you crimp them permanently, it will only light up if the switch block is plugged into the switch!
I've bought all the bits I need, and have taken a look at the engine bay. However, do I have to take the wipers off to get under the scuttle panel? I gather that removing the wiper arms is a right PITA
Removing the wiper arms is easy. Even I can do it. Trying to get your hand under the dash to find the other end is the hard part!
Lol...I'm full of confidence now thanks mate
Planning to take off bottom of dash to help locate piping as it's fed through...sounds like I'm gonna need to find myself some luck though eh?!
Well I actually went in behind the fuse box and squeezed my hand up.
Worth a try!
As you look under the scuttle panel after you've removed the wiper, you will see the rubber grommet that feeds the main wiring loom into the car. I just got an old wire coat hanger and straightened it out, then used it to pierce a hole in the edge of the rubber grommet (at around '1pm' as you look at it).
This should clear the wiring and if you poke it through about 6-10 inches you should see it from under the dash (once that has been removed). Then you can attach the hose to the coat hanger wire and tape the f**k out of it and pull it through! Job done.
I know this is for the boost gauge but the oil temp gauge it is mechanical right?
will this guide work with the depo stepper motor gauges the wires are
black - earth
orange - parking lamp
did you post some pictures of this?? would like to see how you have done it
Did mine today, and the gauge is flickering.... Anyone any ideas? The car is over boosting, but I'm sure this won't cause it...? It rattles and I can hear it with the CD player on, and it's doing my tits in, anyone else's do it? Cheers, josh. Fr tdi by the way!
Just fitted my auto gauge boost gauge using guide was very helpful apart from one issue. Instead of yellow black orange and purple wires from gauge I just have a red orange and black, ive wired up following image apart from swapping red for yellow n using orange without purple connected and black to the brown. All works fine apart from light on gauge stays on all the time and does not dim etc any body have any ideas where I went wrong, do I need to swap the red and orange wires over??
Ignore that I missed the part about joining orange and red wires to switch live, good guide though also I had to do same as a few others and route the vac pipe through the grommet with bonnet release cable running through it instead of drilling by main loom
Sorry to drag up and old thread, but I'm going to finish off installing my boost gauge tonight and i have a couple of questions,
1st I've been looking at the guides, and once i pierce the hole following the bonnet release cable and i feed to silicone pipe through where roughly will it come out???? ( any pics on how to do this would be great
2nd Where should i put the T piece in, FPR or at the DV, an never seem to find a definitive answer on this
FPR for "T" piece,i brought hose thru at other side of bonnet,just where relay box is,more direct feed.
If you take out glovebox there's a grommit in panel behind.
Have a thick knitting needle handy,makes it easier.
T into the Recirc valve matey, not the FPR.