Brake Fluid Top Up?
- Thread starter Wilkesy
- Start date
Yeah you can just top it up. Just check top of reservoir if it's dot 4 or 3 but it should be dot 4. You fluid is most likely low due to your brake pads being low. So check that as they maybe due
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Yes, just buy as small a container of DOT4 Plus/ESP and you will be adding in same as what is already in there.
For example:- TRW DOT4 ESP PFB440, Mobil DOT 4 ESP, ATE SL6 ESP, Comma BF4ESP1L, Febi 23930 - or even Febi 26748 as that equates to a 0.25ltr container.
Listing these extended descriptions will mean that if you order on line, you will be getting exactly the correct item.
Edit:- you will find less better described brake fluids but inevitably they will be only DOT4 and so not exactly the correct grade/spec for these cars, although some people saving a few pence will possibly still use the incorrect version of DOT4.
For example:- TRW DOT4 ESP PFB440, Mobil DOT 4 ESP, ATE SL6 ESP, Comma BF4ESP1L, Febi 23930 - or even Febi 26748 as that equates to a 0.25ltr container.
Listing these extended descriptions will mean that if you order on line, you will be getting exactly the correct item.
Edit:- you will find less better described brake fluids but inevitably they will be only DOT4 and so not exactly the correct grade/spec for these cars, although some people saving a few pence will possibly still use the incorrect version of DOT4.
DOT4 ESP looks interesting. The advertising blurb seems to imply that, when compared to the old, still current, DOT 4, it has anti oxidation properties which prevent fluid oxidation, rust and swelling of piston seals. I'll try now to post a link to where I read this:
https://forums.seatcupra.net/index.php?threads/brake-fluid-top-up.453342/add-reply
My Ibiza (2016 1.0 ecomotive) uses this ESP fluid - not that I've yet had to top up but at 3 years old and now out of warranty I will be renewing it all at the next service (and slaistering a bit of anti seize around the nipples at the same time). It would seem though that this DOT4ESP is compatible with older systems? If it has better anti corrosion properties and is less hydroscopic than the "old" DOT4 I'm very tempted to use it in our older cars, doing a whole system flush and changing over as the 2 yearly fluid changes come about. Honda Jazz ('08), Fiats Panda ('10) and Punto ('12) and Vauxhall Astra ('07)
Anyone know of a reason why not to do this (except perhaps price - I realize it's more pricey).
https://forums.seatcupra.net/index.php?threads/brake-fluid-top-up.453342/add-reply
My Ibiza (2016 1.0 ecomotive) uses this ESP fluid - not that I've yet had to top up but at 3 years old and now out of warranty I will be renewing it all at the next service (and slaistering a bit of anti seize around the nipples at the same time). It would seem though that this DOT4ESP is compatible with older systems? If it has better anti corrosion properties and is less hydroscopic than the "old" DOT4 I'm very tempted to use it in our older cars, doing a whole system flush and changing over as the 2 yearly fluid changes come about. Honda Jazz ('08), Fiats Panda ('10) and Punto ('12) and Vauxhall Astra ('07)
Anyone know of a reason why not to do this (except perhaps price - I realize it's more pricey).
For me, it was a PM to my Polo forum that alerting me correctly or not, that VW Group were going to pull the plug on selling their own branded brake fluid from all franchised dealerships parts dept and that would include TPS.
So from that bit of news I created, for my own benefit, what/where I would now be moving to buy new fluid if indeed that news was correct, and it was that that pointed to the VW Group DOT4 brake fluid currently being sold being actually DOT4+ ! I take it that means it is good for nonESP and ESP equipped cars.
So from that bit of news I created, for my own benefit, what/where I would now be moving to buy new fluid if indeed that news was correct, and it was that that pointed to the VW Group DOT4 brake fluid currently being sold being actually DOT4+ ! I take it that means it is good for nonESP and ESP equipped cars.
Well iv got a seat ibiza fr 62 plate if that's any help to find the specific dot 4fluid,its deffo dot 4 with it stating it on the yellow cap but would love just a 0.25ml pot
Maybe check when the fluid was last changed as if it was done at the correct times, it will be due to get replaced soon.
If not, buy the fluid and top up as advised and it will still need replacing within a few months or so.
You could look for years to find a small container, a litre or 0.5 litre will be easier to find.
If not, buy the fluid and top up as advised and it will still need replacing within a few months or so.
You could look for years to find a small container, a litre or 0.5 litre will be easier to find.
Actually, if you want to buy the correct fluid in the smallest available size, then search for "Febi DOT4 Plus 0.25 litre product code 26748"
I don't think that you would ever be able to find out, I'd think that there will only be, an least in Europe, 2 or 3 companies manufacturing DOT4+ brake fluid. There is a possibility that as VW Group use or used to use mainly Girling>Lucas>TRW brake assemblies, then it could be TRW branded fluid that is in VW Group branded tins - but who manufactures it for TRW, I'd doubt if a steering and braking systems company would bother making their own, but you will probably never know. I've yet to test the theory that VW Group outlets have stopped stocking/selling VW Group branded brake fluid.
So what would you recommend for a seat 1.2 tsi brake fluid. It only states dot4 fluid. But if there is better I would like to use
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So far in my motoring life running VW Group cars, I've always only ever used their own brake fluid, but if they have stopped selling it, then I have planned ahead and made up a list of fluids I would need to start buying:-
TRW DOT4 ESP brake fluid PFB440 1litre (PFB445 5litre)
Comma brake fluid BF4ESP1L 1litre
Febi brake fluid DOT4 PLUS 1litre 23930 (DOT4 PLUS 5litre 23932, DOT4 PLUS 0.25litre 26748)
ATE brake fluid SL6 DOT4 ESP 1ltr (Class 6 Dry Boiling Point 265C – Minimum Wet Boiling Point 175C sold by ECP)
Pagid DOT4 PRO (available in 1ltr and 5ltr containers)
TRW DOT4 ESP brake fluid PFB440 1litre (PFB445 5litre)
Comma brake fluid BF4ESP1L 1litre
Febi brake fluid DOT4 PLUS 1litre 23930 (DOT4 PLUS 5litre 23932, DOT4 PLUS 0.25litre 26748)
ATE brake fluid SL6 DOT4 ESP 1ltr (Class 6 Dry Boiling Point 265C – Minimum Wet Boiling Point 175C sold by ECP)
Pagid DOT4 PRO (available in 1ltr and 5ltr containers)
With that Pagid Pro brand is that ECP own brand Pagid or a different Pagid brand. As I used ECP Pagid in my fiancé Vauxhall corsa, whilst no issues it defiantly (based off my tester) on last 2 years. I'm looking for something that seems a bit more hardwearing . Us in case I can't do it exactly at 2 years.
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I understand your comments wrt ECP and the Pagid brand, but in this case, as it appears on the proper Pagid/TMD Friction website, I'd take it that it is proper Pagid stuff.
Two years is all I'd give brake fluid, that is the industry recommendation and unless you bought and maintained a proper fluid tester, and that would involve returning it for verification every year or so, I find the cheapest way round this is to stick with replacing every 2 years, maybe overkill but it has worked for me for many many years. Some people leave the fluid for 4 or 6 or 8 years, and stay lucky in braking efficiency and not getting seized corroded pistons, but why bother taking the risk.
I have been tempted to buy the usual cheap fluid moisture tester, but I'd end up either mistrusting it or just continuing to replace the fluid every 2 years, so I've just held off spending money on a tester.
Edit:- always remember that all or most of these DOT4+ fluids will only hold so much moisture before becoming unpredictable in long duration heavy braking situations, so they will work almost exactly the same as each other in terms of "safe service life".
Two years is all I'd give brake fluid, that is the industry recommendation and unless you bought and maintained a proper fluid tester, and that would involve returning it for verification every year or so, I find the cheapest way round this is to stick with replacing every 2 years, maybe overkill but it has worked for me for many many years. Some people leave the fluid for 4 or 6 or 8 years, and stay lucky in braking efficiency and not getting seized corroded pistons, but why bother taking the risk.
I have been tempted to buy the usual cheap fluid moisture tester, but I'd end up either mistrusting it or just continuing to replace the fluid every 2 years, so I've just held off spending money on a tester.
Edit:- always remember that all or most of these DOT4+ fluids will only hold so much moisture before becoming unpredictable in long duration heavy braking situations, so they will work almost exactly the same as each other in terms of "safe service life".
Hey Pal, i agree with rum, i would try to do it around two years, as with testers your never sure hiw accurate they are. I bought one of those pressure one.man bleeders (not the sealey.one) just an ebay generic and it works very.well , but sadly the cap isnt right for seat Ibizas but works fine on corsa Ds. So inwould invedt in.one of those so at least your gfs car is done in.an.hour and then your own car doesnt feel as.long as you have saved time on the other cars.
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The official workshop manual states 0.25litre per wheel, but I always start at the rear and allow maybe 0.4litre out of each rear wheel brake and a lot less out from each of the front wheel brakes, that means that I'd still get away with using 1litre, but as I change the fluid on 2 cars at the same time, I tend to buy 3litres, this time I've bought TRW DOT4 ESP from Opieoils.
Edit:- I'd always remove more fluid from the first rear wheel brakes as the remainder of the old fluid in the reservoir, after you have removed as much as possible using something like a dedicated turkey baster. So I'd probably revise my volumes of fluid to 0.5ltre from the first rear brake, 0.3litre from the second one and 0.1litre from both of the last ones which for me are the front ones. I always start at the rear because these lines are longer and so hold/need more fluid.
For your information, VW Group quote the same volume of fluid out of each brake regardless of the size of the cas - now that is just laziness from their technical authors I'd think.
Edit:- I'd always remove more fluid from the first rear wheel brakes as the remainder of the old fluid in the reservoir, after you have removed as much as possible using something like a dedicated turkey baster. So I'd probably revise my volumes of fluid to 0.5ltre from the first rear brake, 0.3litre from the second one and 0.1litre from both of the last ones which for me are the front ones. I always start at the rear because these lines are longer and so hold/need more fluid.
For your information, VW Group quote the same volume of fluid out of each brake regardless of the size of the cas - now that is just laziness from their technical authors I'd think.
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Hello, Please can someone advise? I have been told by a garage that my brake fluid is low, although there is no warning light on the system. I drive a B Class 2018 model, so it is still under warranty. The garage is quoting a lot of money which seems very unreasonable. In order to maintain the warranty and benefit from the Roadside Assistance programme do I need to get the brake fluid topped up by a garage which used original parts? The brake fluid is not replenished at service - so is it necessary to use only mercedes approved brake fluid or can a local cheaper garage do it for the warranty and roadside assistance to be preserved? Thank you.
The big thing you need to be aware of is that there are three main types of brake fluid. Mineral based which is used in only a very small minority of vehicles - early Citroens, some Rolls Royce etc, so it's rare to find an "every day" car which uses it. Silicon based which is also very rare and not a standard fill (as far as I know) with any manufacturer and tends to be substituted by enthusiasts for Glycol based fluid as it lasts longer. I've never used it but have been told it can result in a more spongy feel to the pedal? Then there's the Glycol based fluids which are by far and away the most common. They come in DOT3, DOT4, DOT4 plus (some are labeled "super" "ESP" or another similar word but are all the same as "super" as far as I know and DOT5.1 (DOT5 is the silicone based stuff not to be confused with 5.1).
Mineral based is not compatible with Glycol and vice versa. Use Mineral in a glycol system - or Glycol in a mineral - and you've just made yourself a VERY big and expensive problem as it'll rot all the seals. Silicon is non reactive and should last a very long time as it doesn't absorb water (which is why you need to change glycol based fluid every two or three years (the water corrodes pistons, cylinders etc but MUCH more importantly can seriously degrade braking performance as it can turn into a gas - by boiling - where upon your brake pedal will got to the floor as the "steam gas is compressed and hasten you on your way to the scene of your accident!
I use whatever fluid is specified for the car I'm attending to - often it has a sticker on the reservoir - which most often is DOT4 but occasionally DOT4 plus (ESP, super or whatever is on it's container) and I just use whatever brand my local trade factor has on his shelf at the time I need it. Probably all made in just one or two factories anyway and then bottled as different brands. You can pretty much bet your boots the vehicle manufacturer won't have a fluid manufacturing plant? If the fluid reservoir has a sticker for DOT4 on it, I'm very happy to just top up with whatever brand of DOT4 I've bought from the factor. You do need to be very sure you're using the right stuff but a phone call to the very helpful people at Opie Oils or one of the other big specialist suppliers should get you a recommendation as to what to use if you're feeling unsure.
You say the fluid isn't "replenished" at service? I'd expect it to be topped up if low but not for the whole system to be purged and refilled with fresh fluid - which is typically a separate operation done every 2 to 3 years (as I mentioned above) and involves some additional labour time.
When it comes to dedicated manufacturer's fluids the only one I'm really "religious" about is transmission fluid, either manual or automatic, but especially automatic, when I'll only use the manufacturer's recommended product. I'm very "picky" about engine oils but I'm happy to use an alternative manufacturer's product (for instance I use a lot of Fuchs product) but it has to be exactly to the manufacturers specification.
Edit. Just a wee after thought. If your pads are getting well worn down then the reservoir level will be low as it compensates for the missing (worn) friction material. This is absolutely normal and, when new pads are fitted the fluid level will be restored as the caliper pistons are pressed back into the calipers. If you top up now and new pads are to be fitted in the very near future then some of the fluid just added will have to be syphoned out again or it'll overflow when the new pads are fitted. However, if the level is getting really low it probably should be topped up regardless. Most cars now a days have a low fluid level light which warns you if the fluid level is getting low enough to be of concern.
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