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Buying a 2001 Toledo V5 -- help appreciated

Discussion in 'MK1 & MK2 Toledo' started by dvance, Mar 23, 2010.

  1. dvance

    dvance Active Member

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    Hi! I am planning on buying a Tolly V5 next week, so wanted to get some thoughts on what I should be looking out for when I go see a couple. Also I was wondering what the pricing is supposed to be for one in good condition from a dealer?

    Basically, I am looking in the following ads:

    Well apparently, since I am a newbie I can't post links to the ads :(. Well, 60-70k 2001 models is the ball park.

    As far as I am aware the V5 has a timing chain right? Does that need to be changed some time or it's pretty much good for life? Any common faults that I need to be aware of (as far as I've heard temp sensor and ignition coils)? Suspension? Should I get it checked over by RAC or AA, or that's not going to give me much more info than the test drive and me looking at it?

    I'll appreciate any and all comments :D, well the constructive ones any way
    Thanks!
     
  2. Slimy

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    Yep, the V5 has a timing chain. It has no service interval, the manual does quote a visual check at 120,000 miles but generally they're fine. I've heard of two engines letting go due to the plastic tensioners, but that's two from god knows how many Toledos, Golfs, Passats, Beetles, etc. As long as the oil changes are kept up, that engine will run for millenia.

    The V5 has ALOT of toys, you would spend a good few hours trying them all but it's still useful to check the obvious ones. Electric seats, windows, mirrors, try and check the cruise control and the air con if possible but you have to be moving for those. Check the radio and sat nav, but the sat nav disc is likely to be out of date.

    A difficult start isn't uncommon, if it doesn't fire up straightaway give the gas pedal a flick the next time. The V5 is glacier smooth, you should only feel a slight rumble from idle up to red line. Struggling to rev or a bit of a lumpy running is a coilpack, the engine will run on 3 before it starts to have real trouble.

    Engine management light is never a good thing, but even if its not lit you could try and get someone with VAG-COM to plug in and get any fault codes.

    The one main fault which is almost guaranteed is the leaky door panels. If your feet get wet when you open any door, or there is a puddle on the sill, then it needs fixing sometime. It can make the inside of the car a bit smelly, make the windows mist up on cold days, but I don't think there's any lasting damage.

    Check for the obvious misaligned panels, different colours under street lights, worn discs and pads, etc. But to be honest, they're pretty sturdy.

    For an 01 plate, which will be the 20 valve rather than the 10 valve, I wouldn't pay more than 2k, and probably half that for a higher mileage. If you have some in mind, post the Ebay numbers rather than the full links, you should be fine with those.
     
  3. dvance

    dvance Active Member

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    Thanks, Slimy! The door panels is something new. Any idea how much the fix costs? So should I assume suspension is bombproof? I own an Alfa 147 ATM, so compared to that it's a tank right :D ?

    I haven't really looked on eBay, but rather AutoTrader. Seems that the two I was after are also on eBay. So one is 230442273384 and the other is 280361911013.
     
  4. kewe

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    Slimy's covered all bases :)

    Both look like un-tinckered with motors so just comes down to personal choice and how they are when/if you go look at them.

    Gold ones go faster though :p

    If you are interested in modding later check my video link to see how the Gold looks, might give you some ideas.
     
  5. dvance

    dvance Active Member

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    Love the Cupra bumper and the sideskirts. How difficult/expensive is it to get those bolted on?

    How reliable is the Toledo V5 for a daily runner? I've heard good stuff so far, but you guys have daily experience :D
     
  6. Slimy

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    You really can't fault it, the only tiny issue is fuel economy. It's a big engine, it's not going to be very economical. 30mpg is what I typically aim for, with a mixture of driving. I can get 50mpg if I do 50mph, but that just becomes suicidal on motorways!

    The only time i've 'broken down' is when a coil pack failed. And when I say 'broken down', I mean I had to do my 50 mile home journey at 60 instead of 80, and my fuel economy was in single figures. As I said, it'll run on 3 cylinders, just not very well. Get yourself at least two coil packs, stick 'em next to the spare wheel, and you're set. Don't wait until they fail before getting them, they're sometimes difficult to source.
     
  7. Slimy

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    Have a look for the postings about leaking door panels, it's a common VAG fault not just the Toledo. I've seen quotes around £150 for a dealer to do it, or the replacement seal costs around £30.

    The suspension isn't brilliant, it's what you might expect from a 'comfortable' car. It doesn't take much to get it crossed up. If you want to be enthusiastic, you will be swapping it, as I will be soon! I'm looking at £200 for all round coilovers.

    I won't look down on you for owning an Alfa, at least you see the error of your ways now...:whistle::D
     
  8. Slimy

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    Oh yeah, and don't look at Kewe's video, the tempation to mod is too much to resist...:drool:
     
  9. Thev5

    Thev5 Keeping it unreal

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    The only other thing that may go is the MAF sensor. They are about £50'ish quid for a new one and are very easy to fit. The other thing I have, not sure about other people, is the brake light switch may pack up.

    I think these cars are bombproof. I've had my 99 V5 (10valve) for 7 1/2 years now and done 145k miles. It has never broken down as such. I have replaced 1 MAF sensor and I did the alternator last year, I have replaced 4 brake light switches as well. These cost about £8 and take 10 min's. Other than that, its all good.
     
  10. kewe

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    Like Slimy I have only had coilpack failure not long after I got mine. If you're with the AA or RAC etc they seemingly carry them around in their vans it's that common a fault on VAG cars. When mines went I was advised to replace all 5 which I did. Haven't had a problem since in 2.5 years - touch wood. All the seals in my door were done by previous owner and again never given me a problem. Not had the MAF problem either but it is quite common for these to go. Some people think a panel filter like K&N (oil) makes it worse. I have a K&N panel filter again no probs. Another common problem not mentioned yet I think is the cooling fans. There should be 2 of these that work slow speed when the aircon is switched on and fast speed if the car is sitting ticking over for a long period. Worth checking these work properly as they can be expensive or tricky to fix. Mine has what's known as the mime mod to get round the fan problem, again done by the previous owner.

    It's sailed through every MOT but I do make sure I take it to a VAG specialist garage to get it serviced every year. Fuel economy ain't great, I've manage to average 42mpg on a long run but back and forward to work in mixed traffic I see about 30mpg. Seems to run better on v-plus, doesn't like tesco 99 :-(

    It really is a fabulous car to drive. Nice smooth and very quiet. Loads of low down torque so as soon as you touch the accelerator it pulls hard,then you will probably find a slight flat spot at about 3.5-4K rpm which is common feature on these V5 engines and nothing to worry about. From there it should pull nice and clean to the red line and the V5 growl should put a smile on your face. It's a great motorway cruiser, sitting at 70-80, there's a huge amount of power to get beyond 100+ very quickly. On the other hand, drive around town in 5th at 30mph is no problem.

    Hopefully some of this rambling might help :D
     
  11. Slimy

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    Oh yeah, I forgot the MAF sensor. Mine had been replaced by the previous owner at a cost of about £300 from a dealer. We swapped one on my mates V5 for about £45 and five minutes in a lunch break!

    His symptoms were a bit of hesitation throughout the rev range, an almost imperceptible delay between gas pedal and revs increasing. The swap removed that hesitation completely.

    Both the MAF and coilpacks should be covered under a warranty, so if you're looking at a dealer purchase you should be fine for the first few months.
     
  12. Thev5

    Thev5 Keeping it unreal

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    I've been using Shell V Power and Millers Octane Plus for about 5 years as I had this flat spot and the odd hesitation when needing to pull out of a junction fast when cold. Since doing the V Power and Octane Boost in each tank, I get none of this. Might be worth a go.
     
  13. dvance

    dvance Active Member

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    Well, I still own the Alfa, and intend to keep doing so :). It's my first car, so I've only love for it. I mean you've got to admire that free revving little engine (mine has the 1.6 -- still 120 bhp), it's helped me put a smile on my face so many times (nevermind you have to keep it above 4000 RPM), anyways, that's off topic :) It's back on the continent anyway...

    Yeah, the temptation is great. Kewe's car looks pretty awesome.

    Thanks for all the comments -- I am really appreciating them.

    What I meant with my suspension question is how much am I looking on spending on it on an annual basis -- my Alfa is used to eating up about 4-500 quid in suspension replacement work annually (well to be honest, it's mostly me not tolerating any creaks and sounds coming from under the car). But then again, the front suspension on the 147 is pretty weak.

    How much's an annual service by a decent VAG specialist? I am hoping not more than a couple hundred :).

    Kewe, where are those cooling fans located? Am I looking to see if they turn, or something else (obviously will try to have a listen to see if any bearings and such might be ready to pack)? I am assuming they're bolted on the radiator, or am I being stupid?

    Cheers guys for really getting me excited about the V5, kewe's fabulous description of the engine left me itching for a drive as I have no car in the UK presently.
     
  14. Thev5

    Thev5 Keeping it unreal

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    The suspension shouldn't cause any problems for a while. I changed my shocks, springs, bushes over at around 110k from the original set. It opted for Spax adjustable shocks, spax springs and powerflex bushes. I think all in it cost about £500 and should last for a few years yet.

    As for the service, an oil service with filters etc should be about £125 and an inspection I'm guessing at around £200. I've done my own servicing for the last few years which really keeps the costs down. Lets face it, at an oil change they undo a bolt or two let the oil drain out, change your cabin and panel filter and then do the bolts back up and put new oil in. Should take about 45 min's and most of that time is waiting for the oil to drain out. However, if you want that dealer/garage stamp in your car, what price do you put on it. As mine is almost 11 years old and high miles, its not worth much on the market place, so the stamp doesn't bother me. However, I do have my own stamp and I keep a record on a spreadsheet of what was done and when etc...
     
  15. dvance

    dvance Active Member

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    Thanks for the info Thev5! I completely agree about the oil/filter service -- the only bad point I see is that I really don't have my own garage or even driveway :(.
     
  16. Slimy

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    I know what you mean about Alfa suspension, my mates old Alfa (can't remember which one) used to eat bushes like they were going out of fashion!

    I'm fairly sure that's an Alfa trait, I've certainly not heard of many VAG cars having annual suspension costs. Bushes can fail, and in some cases fail quite early (some early enough to be fixed under warranty), but they just get replaced and then they're good for thousands of miles. You'll really only need to work on the suspension if you think that it could do with tightening up, which is what I'm doing very soon.

    It's interesting reading about your Alfa though, you're going to find the V5 a whole different animal. For example, you said the Alfa runs best after 4000 rpm. Peak torque for the V5 is at around 3400, and more than 80% of it is available from 1000 all the way to the red line. Kewe mentioned that there is enough power to get to 100+ speeds, the best thing about it is that you don't have to change down to actually get there.

    Oh yeah, and should you EVER get bored of it (very slim chance I assure you), just have a look at this;

    http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/234772/1525684.aspx
     
  17. kewe

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    Yeah mate, they're attached to the radiator at the front of the engine bay. With the aircon switched off (frost button on climate control) they will be off. If you go inside the car and switch the aircon on, they should both start up - well mines do. Only problem is because my car has the mime mod I'm not sure if this is standard. May be worth having a search in here or the Leon section for cooling fan issues.

    a bit like this:-
    http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=187619&highlight=cooling+fans
     
    #17 kewe, Mar 24, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2010
  18. dvance

    dvance Active Member

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    Will search for the cooling fan issues. For now my questions box is empty, will do some more research on the weekend, and hopefully Monday I'll go see those cars, and maybe if I'm lucky drive one back home. :)

    I can go on for miles about the 147 -- it's a great little car to drive in my eyes, even with the tiniest engine fitted in mine. What I find quite spot on with the car overall is the great interior, something that I really haven't seen in many other hatchbacks save for the VAG range of late -- I mean nice comfortable seats, climate control and cruise control all standard in the basic model? I can also go on about the faults for ages as well :whistle: and the amount of money spent :D
     
  19. Thev5

    Thev5 Keeping it unreal

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    I don't either. To be honest, I'm a bit sneaky and do it in a private car park behind my place at a weekend! I use a pela 6000 pump, so I don't need to undo the sump plug and I have an old washing up bowl to do the oil filter. Absolute minimum amount goes on the ground.
     
  20. dvance

    dvance Active Member

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    Mad props for that :D. I've heard that draining through removal of the sump plug helps clear some of the gunk that collects in your oil over time. I am sure you've heard of these additives that people sometimes use after draining the oil and run the engine for a bit to get the crap cleaned out and so on. Don't mean to discourage you from doing it yourself though :)
     

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