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Discussion in 'Mk4 Ibiza Guides (6L) 2002-2008' started by MichalR, Mar 5, 2007.
I'm sure my Ibiza 1.4 Sport has drum brakes :s
Does the piston actually need to be twisted back in or can it just be pushed?
If you have the same piston/calliper setup as on page 1 (ie not drum) then it needs to be wound in.
I wasnt able to push it as it needs to be rotated under pressure. A calliper winding tool is the way to go and easy to use. Can buy them everywhere. Think you can get the same effect by being inventive with a clamp (don't take my word for it tho - not done it that way).
I snapped the brake fluid pipe doing this job Am I going to get mugged for a new brake pipe?
Great guide though. I got the pistons back in using long nose pliers and turning clockwise. Handbrake is really high now though.
A new Brake pipe shouldnt cost the earth.
The handbrake is high? Did you pump the foot pedal a good amount of times to settle/tighten the piston before pulling on the handbrake for the first time? doing the handbrake 1st before you pump the brake can cause there to be slack in the handbrake.
hope that makes sense.
Pipe cost £17 I think then I had to pay a garage £28 to fit it because the new pipe and hose just wouldn't screw into each other, spent 3 hours under the car in the pouring rain trying but gave up and took it to the mechanic lol.
Handbrake is high now but easily adjusted according to elsawin.
I take it that you DID follow the correct procedure after changing the pads - ie as mentioned earlier, bring the pads out fully then with foot still on brake pull the handbrake on and off a few times. If you have not done it that way, you might need to wound the pistons in fully again. Have you fitted the externak handbrake return springs to the wheel levers? Just getting rid of the slack by adjusting the cable is not really the way to go if the handbrake "handle" travel is now a lot more than before you started this work. Every thing should adjust back up to where it needs to be within a few operations of the brakes so that you have (a) a working handbrake and (b) the handbrake "handle" at the normal height.
Rear Brake Pads
I was changing me rear pads at weekend and had a bit of a problem on one side compressing and turing the cylinder (Brake piston). I was wondering if any one had any thoughts on how i could do it.
I was thinking it could be that i took up all the slack in the pipes and fluid can not be compressed so i may have to bleed some out. Is this possible? and if so do i just crack off the bleed and let it come out when i compress cylinder?
Just remember to remove the handbrake cable and take the clip off too. If you have a problem compressing the piston undo the blead cap a little and compress the cylinder.
im planning on doing the front disc &pads on my ibiza this weekend i am assuming its a simalar process?
the disks are the same to replace but the pads are different. however i think the front is easier to do than the rear. the front pistons do not have to be 'wound' back you can just push them back when the caliper is still bolted to the hub by using a some sort of bar. make sure to do this before removing caliper as you will not be able to get the caliper on when new brake pads have been fitted.
Just to add this is the same procedure for a MK1 Leon rear brakes (SE 130 TDI), worked a treat..
anyone know a thread that goes through how to change your front ones?
used this guide at the weekend would reccomend anyone to do this if you are half decent with some spanners.
I don’t know if my experience of changing the rear pads discs by following this thread's guide will be of help but here we go…
Last night I tried and tried and tried to get the piston wound back in without the proper wind back tool and after 2 hours gave up. Borrowed a full brake wind back kit from a mechanic mate and wound the piston back in 20 seconds!!! It was an absolute doddle with the right tool I can tell you.
I unscrewed the brake fluid cap throughout the whole process to let fluid pressure back up and made sure it didn't overflow. Was warned by a mechanic not to go too quick with the piston wind back tool as it can have repercussions with the master brake cylinder (can’t corroborate what he said but did as he said and went easy).
Did the whole job, both sides, in under 20 minutes - including fitting Brembo (boggo OEM) discs and Ferodo Premier pads (FDB1788).
Errrr…that’s about it. Just to say I won’t ever think of doing this rear brake job again on any car without a piston wind back tool.
P.S. If you decide to buy the tool as I will at some point – I was quoted £7.99 for one by a local car spares shop.
P.P.S. for the Ibiza FR Tdi ’05 pre facelift model you’ll need a Right Hand Thread (Clockwise) tool.
Cheers Guys – All the Best
BTW Just been out for a test drive and can feel a positive difference to the braking - not mega but pretty good Hope it will get even better as the pads bed in
Thanks for this guide!
My car failed it's mot on the drivers side hand brake not working. I reset everything and took it back and the tester said the handbrake lever was to high so I reset it all again and I still get a large travel if I yank the brake on so I adjusted the tensioner and all I get now is the passenger brake binding! I really can't understand it i pressed to brake pedal down lots of times before attaching the handbrake cables. What can I do as I'm without a car for a bit
Did you first of all remove the calipers > clean everything > fully retract the pistons > put it all back together, then do the pedal pressing etc. Making sure that the levers are just off their stops whwn the brake handle is fully down?
would this be the same for altea and the wind back tool there seems to be two different types of these and 1 more this the front much the same
LC Rear brakes - no pressure???
Great "How to thread", but I have run into a problem!!
After completing the procedure as per instructions - I pumped the brake pedal but found that the pressure is dropping once the car is started?? It is fine when engine not started.
Is this a sign of needing to bleed the system or a master cylinder issue?
Just for the record - no bleed nipples cracked open and no brake fluid overflowed and the brake fluid level is fine??