Climate control unit repair. (sticky buttons)

mty12345

Active Member
Jun 17, 2011
3,768
475
bristol
I've had a problem recently where although the button didn't appear to be stuck, the climate control unit kept acting as if the "-" temp button was being pressed in, causing it to cycle to the "LO" setting and putting the air-con on full blast. I've just sorted it so thought i'd do a quick write up for anyone with the same issue.

Obviously I can't be held responsible if you damage your unit, although as long as you are careful then it's a very easy repair that anyone can do.

Tools needed: T20 torx
T6 torx (very small and probably not in most torx sets, classed as a precision torx bit)
Phillips screw driver
IPA (isopropyl alcohol)
Cotton buds and a soft bristled toothbrush.


Step 1: Remove the ashtray by removing the phillips screw from inside at the top. Unplug cigar lighter cable by pressing the tab at the bottom and gently pulling the wiring plug rearwards. Remove the 2 torx bolts (T20) that are behind where the ashtray was.

Step 2: Remove the radio (and any aftermarket surround) to reveal two more torx bolts that need to be removed. With all 4 bolts out you should be able to remove the facia panel by pulling it gently forward and upwards from the ashtray area. It's attached at the middle and top by 4 metal clips which will release easily enough by pulling the panel forward. (be gentle as the facia could snap if you're heavy handed)

Step 3: Remove the 2 torx bolts that hold the climate unit into the dash (note the orientation of the metal clips which are also held on by those bolts) Unplug the 4 connectors at the rear by depressing the tabs, and remove the climate unit itself. Take the unit inside and work on a table or similar.

Step 4: Remove the 3 phillips screws that hold the front panel of the climate unit to the body. Gently move the face away from the body of the unit, being careful not to damage the cable that connects the front panel to the circuit board. You DO NOT need to remove the cable, there is plenty of slack to allow you to work.

Step 5: Carefully remove the 6 or 7 silver screws (torx T6) that hold the front circuit board to the plastic face. (Don't slip and damage the tracks on the circuit board). With those screws removed you can now seperate the circuit board from the plastic face with the buttons on it.

Step 6: The plastic face contains no electronics, it is perfectly safe to wash it in some warm water with a bit of washing up liquid. Use a small soft bristled tooth brush to get in there and remove any dirt and sticky crap that might be around the buttons. If needed the 2 sets of "+" and "-" buttons can be completely removed from the facia by removing the 2 tiny plastic clips on the rear, (gently slide them out rearwards) Set aside the facia and buttons to dry completely in a warm area.

Step 7: On the front of the circuit board you will see a rubber membrane which the buttons push against when you press them. This can be gently peeled back to reveal the contacts on the circuit board. The contacts are etched onto the circuit board, and look like a kind of an "S" shape. (the small white squares are LED's) The contacts can be cleaned using a cotton bud and some IPA (Isopropyl alcohol) Allow the IPA to evaporate once done. ( Note: Do not clean the LCD display with IPA, if it needs cleaning then use a soft damp cloth and DO NOT put any pressure on the screen itself)

Step 8: That's it, after making sure that you have got 100% of the water out of the front panel (use compressed air or blow hard into the buttons, as you will find water can stay in the gaps between them and also in the little button posts) carefully reassemble the unit in the reverse order.

This seems to have completely sorted the issue for me and the buttons all feel a lot better when pressed.
 
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