Anyone know where under the fascia the control unit is for petrol cruise control. I can hear something clicking behind the dash when I turn CC on but CC is not engaging. Pump works if powered directly.
Ta
Ta
cruise control master unit
- Thread starter 90landrover
- Start date
oxide32
Guest
hiya mate! is yours the same as mine the vacuum driven system with a hose to the top of the pedals from the pump in passenger wing ???
Yep that's the one. I have taken a feed wire to the pump and can get it to generate vacuum but it does not switch on at the stalk - just get this click from under the dash. Sounds like a relay but it isn't coming from the area where all the relays are it sounds more like it's from left of the radio somewhere.The great God Haynes tells me to remove faschia/dash panel but I don't think that's going to happen. Don't use the CC much - just get annoyed by things that do not work.
oxide32
Guest
ok mate, thats what i thought, yours has the same fault mine had mate, i had to run a complete new vacuum hose (black fuel hose is what i used and is stronger) if there are ANY leaks anywhere along the length of that hose which could be anywhere with the way they run it under the darn battery etc then the system refuses to turn on. grab some hose and just do a temp connection from pump across the battery and into the hole in the bulkhead (i ran mine this way) on the same side (trying to follow the same route as the factory fit is a real biatch) through under the glovebox and straight across to the pedals (you wont see the pipe as its tucked away under the soundproofing) bet ya a tenner she starts working when the pipes connected ;-)
Good call - hadn't thought that it was remaining switched off. Will get some pipe and give it a go. What pipe did you use ( windscreen washer pipe sounds like a good candidate).
oxide32
Guest
i wouldnt use window washer stuff mate!! i used fuel hose and even though it looks wider it fitted beautiful and is more resistant to heat etc. if ya wanna do a quick test then try this.....unplug the pipe from the vacuum pump and making sure the pedals are not depressed (which they wouldnt be if no one is in the car lol) and the switch on the stalk is set to on suck on the disconnected end and it should be bloody hard to suck on, if it aint then you have a vacuum leak or faulty pedal switch. ;-)
oxide32
Guest
Hi Oxide 32
Well spent a few hours yesterday checking out the vacuum side of the cruise control and unfortunately everything seems to work OK. This is what I did.
Removed pump from behind indicator unit and disconnected the pipe from the unit. Sucked on pipe - no suction.Placed small bolt into incar end of pipe and had good suction on pipe.
Removed panel from below dash on drivers side and disconnected the suction pipe coming through the bulkhead, I then wired the pump to run continuously with igniton off by running a feed from the battery.
When pump is running I have good suction at the infeed pipe ( can hear motor making different sound under suction).Reconnected the pipe back onto the splitter connection and noticed that throttle pedal dipped very slightly. Removed throttle pipe from suction splitter and sucked on pipe - throttle goes down to the floor under suction.( showing me that bellows unit is OK - I think). Reconnected pipe at splitter and pressed clutch pedal down - can hear air being sucked in and pump runs slightly faster ( showing me that clutch switch is OK - I think). Pressed brake pedal down and same result as clutch pedal ( showing me that this switch is OK - I think ). Removed pipes from both brake and clutch switch and manual sucked on switches - no drop in suction until switch is depressed then suction is lost as air is let into switch. So I think that vacuum side of curcuit is OK so will now check that the electrical switches on both clutch and brake are working and that there is not an open curcuit somewhere.
I knew it wouldn't be that easy. Whilst under drivers side of dash had good look for CC ECU but it still remains a mystery as to where the "click" is coming from when I engage the CC. I think I may also run a small bulb from the pump to see if this is being energised briefly when I switch CC on.
Well spent a few hours yesterday checking out the vacuum side of the cruise control and unfortunately everything seems to work OK. This is what I did.
Removed pump from behind indicator unit and disconnected the pipe from the unit. Sucked on pipe - no suction.Placed small bolt into incar end of pipe and had good suction on pipe.
Removed panel from below dash on drivers side and disconnected the suction pipe coming through the bulkhead, I then wired the pump to run continuously with igniton off by running a feed from the battery.
When pump is running I have good suction at the infeed pipe ( can hear motor making different sound under suction).Reconnected the pipe back onto the splitter connection and noticed that throttle pedal dipped very slightly. Removed throttle pipe from suction splitter and sucked on pipe - throttle goes down to the floor under suction.( showing me that bellows unit is OK - I think). Reconnected pipe at splitter and pressed clutch pedal down - can hear air being sucked in and pump runs slightly faster ( showing me that clutch switch is OK - I think). Pressed brake pedal down and same result as clutch pedal ( showing me that this switch is OK - I think ). Removed pipes from both brake and clutch switch and manual sucked on switches - no drop in suction until switch is depressed then suction is lost as air is let into switch. So I think that vacuum side of curcuit is OK so will now check that the electrical switches on both clutch and brake are working and that there is not an open curcuit somewhere.
I knew it wouldn't be that easy. Whilst under drivers side of dash had good look for CC ECU but it still remains a mystery as to where the "click" is coming from when I engage the CC. I think I may also run a small bulb from the pump to see if this is being energised briefly when I switch CC on.
oxide32
Guest
hi mate, sorry its taken so long to get back to you!! been doing some jobs (mostly worn vaccuum pipes on my 20vt). can i now ask, do you get the click when you press the switch to ON or when you press the button on the end of the stalk, also the pedal vacuum switches are known to fail and this can disconnect the system from working (the electrical part of the switch NOT the vaccum part) think a multimeter might need to be brought into action, i cannot remember whever these switches connect a circuit or break a circuit when they are in normal idle operation. have you also checked the small pipes that connect the different pedal vacuum's to the main pipe from coming through the bulkhead ????
oxide32
Guest
i think there is a relay at the back of the dash that clicks when the system energises!! mine does the exact same thing mate.
Hi
just checked the switches on both clutch and brake pedals and lo and behold the switch on the brake pedal is faulty with no power being passed through when switch is either pushed in or pulled out. Made the connection temporarily and CC works OK.
When I move switch to the left to turn CC on I can hear the click but now there is a slight acceleration and then speed settles to selected MPH. The speed increase switch is also working as well. So looks like I need to order me a new switch ( took old one apart and cannot really see any reason for it to fail as there is the square root of nothing inside it ) because the mounting thread on the switch is damaged. Maybe the switch was just moving back up the damaged thread until the curcuit was made permanently and this was causing the system to instantly shut off.
Many thanks for your assistance it made me think more about the vacuum and electrical side of the set up. I now know where the vacuum pipe goes to.
just checked the switches on both clutch and brake pedals and lo and behold the switch on the brake pedal is faulty with no power being passed through when switch is either pushed in or pulled out. Made the connection temporarily and CC works OK.
When I move switch to the left to turn CC on I can hear the click but now there is a slight acceleration and then speed settles to selected MPH. The speed increase switch is also working as well. So looks like I need to order me a new switch ( took old one apart and cannot really see any reason for it to fail as there is the square root of nothing inside it ) because the mounting thread on the switch is damaged. Maybe the switch was just moving back up the damaged thread until the curcuit was made permanently and this was causing the system to instantly shut off.
Many thanks for your assistance it made me think more about the vacuum and electrical side of the set up. I now know where the vacuum pipe goes to.
oxide32
Guest
really good news mate, that cruise control is great when its working, although evertime i get to use mine i end up with someone pulling in front of me and it gets switched off lol 
glad the fault is now found and your more than welcome mate.
glad the fault is now found and your more than welcome mate.My CCS module is mounted on the right side of the center dash (driver on left side) can be accessed by removing the glovecompartment (on right side) and the trim that´s around it. Its a bit cramped but possible. My Cruise is not working. Noticed that the vacumhose had got loose from the pump and that it was broke somwere under the battery. Tried a new hose with no luck so my theory is that the wireloom for the CCS that passes behind the radio has broken whenever they installed the aftermarket radio.
I have checked the Components like following...
Pump - connected 12 v to pins connecting to black (gnd) and Brown (12v +) Cables. - Runs.
Clutch and brake connectors + tubing inside cabin - removed the tube from the firewall and mounted a small piece of loose tube. Sucked and the vacum remained + gaspedal droped. Pushed clutch and connector relesed vacum. Sucked again and pushed brake and vacum relesed. Used a multimeter to ohm measure - normaly closed - open when clutch/brake is pushed.
Stalk - Removed trim behind stearingwheel and ohm measured on the connector (set sw, reset sw, on/off sw) - helps having the Circuit diagram. And a couple of Days ago i removed and took apart the stalk and switch (mk1 version). Fixed some broken insulation.
Now on to the wirelooms
I have checked the Components like following...
Pump - connected 12 v to pins connecting to black (gnd) and Brown (12v +) Cables. - Runs.
Clutch and brake connectors + tubing inside cabin - removed the tube from the firewall and mounted a small piece of loose tube. Sucked and the vacum remained + gaspedal droped. Pushed clutch and connector relesed vacum. Sucked again and pushed brake and vacum relesed. Used a multimeter to ohm measure - normaly closed - open when clutch/brake is pushed.
Stalk - Removed trim behind stearingwheel and ohm measured on the connector (set sw, reset sw, on/off sw) - helps having the Circuit diagram. And a couple of Days ago i removed and took apart the stalk and switch (mk1 version). Fixed some broken insulation.
Now on to the wirelooms
Ok. Checked the wirelooms and all seems ok. A tip if one is to measure on the connector to the CCS box is to disconnect the connector and the clamp behind the radio that secures it to the frame. Then pull it out through the hole for the radio, makes it alot easier to measure.
oxide32
Guest
Hi, did the CCS work previously to the radio installation. My actual module had several dry joints and resoldering them at random brought it back to life. Its not hard to open and needs close inspection.
oxide32
Guest
I'd be tempted to open up the box under the radio and carefully heat up any of the solder spots you find. It I a common problem and I did it to mine and has worked for ages now.
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