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Ferret

Active Member
Jul 24, 2015
23
0
Penzance, Cornwall
Hi everyone,

I'm seem to be having yet more problems with the beloved Cordobas! Neither my Mum's or my brother's cars seem to like to be linked up to a diagnostic device - have tried 2 different OBD2 type of machines and both have come up with link not found or words to that effect. one was a generic hand held and the other was in a MOT station/garage.

Does anyone know which type of machine is compatible or if the cars are compatible with the machines?
Mum's car : 2.0 16v SX 1997 ABF 3 dr coupe
Brothers: As above but 1999

Many thanks
Verity:blink:
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
Fusions have same problem. Earlier version uses K line comms and the other is canbus or something. U need K line. vcds-Ltie will work. Comp is having fit at the min. Getting new parts on mon to put in. So sorry for sort reply.
 
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Ferret

Active Member
Jul 24, 2015
23
0
Penzance, Cornwall
Erm.... Hi everyone. So I got myself the vcds Ltie thing and loaded into computer,sorted! Only trouble is the lead supplied doesn't seem to fit the car!!! The lead supplied is like a rhomboid shape where as the connector on car is rectangle! Am I looking in the right place firstly? Under the steering wheel to the left of glovebox, roughly inline with the clutch pedal?

HELP!!
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
Can u post a picture of it using photobucket or similar? I thought from your first post that the OBD2 connector had been used on it before. If you get a picture up it'll help to figure out what's up. The location your describing sounds right. Squeeze the tangs on the glovebox, pull it out and it sits close into the rear of the dash in the left hand side of the opening level with the heater control panel. The longest side lying almost vertical, of the connector that is.
 

Ferret

Active Member
Jul 24, 2015
23
0
Penzance, Cornwall
Pimped my friend I have got it sorted! Well sort of! With a bit of wiggling and some quite impressive contortionist type manoeuvres I have got the VCDS Lite plugged in!:funk:

3 codes found, the top one : 00519 Intake manifold pressure sensor (G71)

then it says 00518 but no words - I have found that it is :Throttle position sensor (G69)

and the last one that crops up is :00523 which I think is Intake air temp sensor (G42).

Please could you show me where these chaps are? I have a rough idea but not sure and I don't seem to be having much luck with google. I did replace the little vaccum tubes around the inlet areas, but I may have another crack as there has been no change......

Also (how many questions?!:blink:) Mother has noticed a horrible electrical smell when she drove it last, I stuck my head under bonnet and guessed it was coming from distributer area. Cant see anything obvious though - do you think that all these problems are interlinked as they have happened all very close together?

Thank you so much for taking the time to read all of this, all comments are gratefully received.

Verity
1997 2.0 16v SX Cordoba ABF engine

Cant post pictures by the seem of it:(
 

Pimped up vario

Cordy Cruizer
Nov 20, 2009
1,291
0
Belfast N Ireland
I have,t got access to the full rosstech fault code library at the minute so maybe someone elese could help you out there. The manifold sensors temp and pressure will most likely be located in the intake manifold or the temp one in the intake ducting after the airbox. If they are connected/interlinked then it'll could be due to water ingress at the windscreen or bulk head, near the fuse box or ecu. You need to do a couiple of dummy posts to get you over 15 posts to be able to get pictures up. The sensors will have a resistance value, I'm afraid I don't know it's exact value right now. A guess would be about 17 ohms, you'd need 2 google it or I'll try later to find out more. Check you alternator for the smokey smell. An infra red baby temp monitor is a good thing to check for high temps in the engine bay. I'd use my hand gingerly but that's me, I wouldn't recomend that for you. The high temps will highlight potential short and electrical problems. Do it with ignition/ charging system engaged but engine not running. It could be a failing alternator or starter motor. Charge the battery with an external charger and see how it holds its charge/voltage level. Then alternator charging voltage would be next, 14- 14.8v for a healthy one. Finally volt drop across the starter, the lower the voltage read across the starter then the harder it's working and is getting tired. Of course if there is a volt drop across it when your not trying to start thecar then itks still engaged or has an internal short and is faulty.
 
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