My discs and pads are due for replacement on my Leon ST 1.6TDI. I am contemplating changing them myself. Any recommendations on brands that will match the originals? I have looked on ECP and the basic Brembo sets come in around £300 for both front and rear disc and pads - Seat Dealer Quoted about £250 for the front, so guessing I would save around £200 minus the cost of some disc cleaner, copper grease and a piston pullback tool. They also return more than one type for my number plate, does any one know the part numbers I might need (model ST= 5F 2014E, 66kw). Cheers Tim
Discs & pads for 2013 Leon ST 1.6
- Thread starter Tim Kingston
- Start date
Your best plan is to whip a couple of wheels off and measure the front and rear disc diameters, prob 288mm or 310mm, rears prob 272mm - but measuring is believing!
Then after sorting that out you should be able to work out which pads go with the discs.
One of the first things that I do when I buy a new car is to work out all these things so when the time comes there is no faffing about to do, just buy.
Then after sorting that out you should be able to work out which pads go with the discs.
One of the first things that I do when I buy a new car is to work out all these things so when the time comes there is no faffing about to do, just buy.
We have the same car and to be honest I really can't see much to be gained in buying another brand. The stock brakes have very good feel, stop well and last for ages.
Fitting is easy. VW group cars score big here because they are simple and logical to work on. I've changed brakes on a lot of cars and I reckon the Leon is the easiest out of them all. Yes, you will need a piston wind-back tool but the £15 eBay ones work fine.
Fitting is easy. VW group cars score big here because they are simple and logical to work on. I've changed brakes on a lot of cars and I reckon the Leon is the easiest out of them all. Yes, you will need a piston wind-back tool but the £15 eBay ones work fine.
Rear calipers are threaded so need a caliper rewind tool to get it back. Need to apply pressure and turn
Have been trying to find the stock ones without any luck. Do you buy direct from your local Seat dealer?
Ouch, and the rear pistons still work okay, not a good idea or an idea to suggest to others, always check that you know what you are talking about before posting comments like that as doing what you say you have done will cause others a bit of money.
Buying direct from your local SEAT dealership will make sure that you get the correct parts - but at a price, doing what I have suggested will let you find which braking system is fitted to that car, SEAT always seem to be a bit "slow" in changing braking systems as engine output power increases, well when compared with VW or Skoda equivalent models.
what are you on about? I hadn't suggested anyone try it. I said I have done it many times on other cars succesfully... and I stated I haven't done the brakes on my Leon? Its a very safe and reliable method of returning the piston into the caliper..... on cars with normal pistons ( as I said I haven't done the Leon so don't know what the pistons are like) I'm intreged as to why you think its a bad idea, or how it would cause damage or cost anyone money? Please don't reply in future if you haven't read and understood the post
what are you on about? I hadn't suggested anyone try it. I said I have done it many times on other cars succesfully... and I stated I haven't done the brakes on my Leon? Its a very safe and reliable method of returning the piston into the caliper..... on cars with normal pistons ( as I said I haven't done the Leon so don't know what the pistons are like) I'm intreged as to why you think its a bad idea, or how it would cause damage or cost anyone money? Please don't reply in future if you haven't read and understood the post
Okay, or please do not suggest inappropriate methods on cars that you don't know exactly how the rear callipers work!
Remember some people on these forums are doing this job for the first time and could easily consider any advice given as being correct - and that was why I was pointing out the error of handing out loose advise like that.
Edit:- for your and other's information, the rear pistons on these cars, while having a seal and being able to be pushed out using the hydraulic fluid pressure, also have a rough thread to allow the cable operated handbrake to drive them out when the handbrake is applied. This system is auto adjusting so it increases the projection of the piston to take up pad/disc wear and still keep the handbrake working efficiently, so with time the piston's "static" position will move out due to this rough screw thread auto adjustment, so when replacing the pads, if you use a normal piston/calliper spreader, G clamp etc you will initially press the piston back in, but will quickly end up forcing/compressing the rough screw thread mechanism - and only bad things happen when you do that, these pistons need rotating to "zero" the rough screw thread adjustment to get the pistons fully retracted.
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