I thought we boost slightly less in summer due to high temps so the ECU pulls back on timing and boost to stop detonation!?
"ECS HKS BOV Kit" Any expirience?
- Thread starter petros
- Start date
My boost hasn't changed at all since removing the reservoir, but then my boost is controlled by an Apexi AVC-R and not the N75, but no you don't HAVE to remove it just to try it out. I'd take most things you read on Vortex as potential 'b*llocks', like their whp figures which are usually served up as a large plate of mince!!!
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k cheers rob.... not too sure on doing it yet... tbh not too sure on the BOV either. I've read a lot of things about them recently, and not understanding any of it makes me think I should leave well alone.
But I can't see any harm in just trying it out briefly. Trouble is I am now doing 25k+ miles a year, and I don't want to make my car less reliable, as I, well, rely on it to take me the required 110miles I do a day to work and back.
But I can't see any harm in just trying it out briefly. Trouble is I am now doing 25k+ miles a year, and I don't want to make my car less reliable, as I, well, rely on it to take me the required 110miles I do a day to work and back.
I can't get the image uploaded ... something wrong with the connection.
Anyway here is my understanding, why blow off valves (BOV) sometimes cause a check engine light (CEL) or Limp mode, and why diverter valves (DV) valves do not, and what a BOV in "divert mode" is.
DV's and BOV's are the same as far as the valves are concerned, its only the piping that differs.
Basically the valve closes when accelerating, and when accelerator pedal is released, valve opens to redirect pressure to either the turbo intake (DV) or out to the air (BOV), to prevent the pressure from returning to the turbo (surging).
The errors occur because the VAG ECU reads the air mass entering the system through the MAF, just after the airbox/intake, and again at the O2 sensor in the exhaust. If the air mass reading is substantially different, an error code is produced as the system suspects a leak in the system.
What causes the different reading is a blow off valve redirecting the air to the atmosphere. To solve this some blow off valves are sold as kits, with a pipe that connects the BOV with intake, basically making it a diverter valve.
Some valves are superior than others, some are adjustable using a screwdriver, some are adjustable by replacing shims/springs, some are louder etc... I could not test the choices I had obviously, but I used a GReddy type RS blow off valve with a kit from EIP Tuning. I am very happy with what I have. Other people seem to be happy with the Forge DV. I have not tried it but the size and weight of the GReddy valve I have and the fact that it is commonly used in very high horsepower applications tells me it is a reliable piece of kit. The build quality is excellent and fitting is very easy, 10-15 minute job.
I would not go for a blow off valve as even if a CEL does not show, there still may be errors that don't show up as a CEL.
If you are looking for a noisy BOV only to make your car sound like a turbo japanese car, then I think your car should be on a site like barryboys. When paying money for a mod I am going to install on my car the part I am installing must be significantly better that the existing OEM part, else why would I change it? A better DV/BOV will improve throttle response and reduce lag.
BTW I have tried the valve I have with and without the diverter hose. I did not notice any performance difference, and the noise is less with the pipe installed, but not by much.
My 2p. If i'm wrong, correct me, im just meaning to help.
Anyway here is my understanding, why blow off valves (BOV) sometimes cause a check engine light (CEL) or Limp mode, and why diverter valves (DV) valves do not, and what a BOV in "divert mode" is.
DV's and BOV's are the same as far as the valves are concerned, its only the piping that differs.
Basically the valve closes when accelerating, and when accelerator pedal is released, valve opens to redirect pressure to either the turbo intake (DV) or out to the air (BOV), to prevent the pressure from returning to the turbo (surging).
The errors occur because the VAG ECU reads the air mass entering the system through the MAF, just after the airbox/intake, and again at the O2 sensor in the exhaust. If the air mass reading is substantially different, an error code is produced as the system suspects a leak in the system.
What causes the different reading is a blow off valve redirecting the air to the atmosphere. To solve this some blow off valves are sold as kits, with a pipe that connects the BOV with intake, basically making it a diverter valve.
Some valves are superior than others, some are adjustable using a screwdriver, some are adjustable by replacing shims/springs, some are louder etc... I could not test the choices I had obviously, but I used a GReddy type RS blow off valve with a kit from EIP Tuning. I am very happy with what I have. Other people seem to be happy with the Forge DV. I have not tried it but the size and weight of the GReddy valve I have and the fact that it is commonly used in very high horsepower applications tells me it is a reliable piece of kit. The build quality is excellent and fitting is very easy, 10-15 minute job.
I would not go for a blow off valve as even if a CEL does not show, there still may be errors that don't show up as a CEL.
If you are looking for a noisy BOV only to make your car sound like a turbo japanese car, then I think your car should be on a site like barryboys. When paying money for a mod I am going to install on my car the part I am installing must be significantly better that the existing OEM part, else why would I change it? A better DV/BOV will improve throttle response and reduce lag.
BTW I have tried the valve I have with and without the diverter hose. I did not notice any performance difference, and the noise is less with the pipe installed, but not by much.
My 2p. If i'm wrong, correct me, im just meaning to help.
makes sense mate, but you call your valve a Greddy blow-off valve, or BOV.
In essence, it isnt a BOV is it? Its a DV or diverter valve.... could get confusing - i know it did when i read your message above saying you wouldnt use a BOV, but yet you already do......
In essence, it isnt a BOV is it? Its a DV or diverter valve.... could get confusing - i know it did when i read your message above saying you wouldnt use a BOV, but yet you already do......
Pabs said:
yes you are right its a bit confusing. The thing is my GReddy valve is designed and labelled as a blow off valve, but with the extra piping it is working as a diverter valve now.
Blow off valve is called that because it blows off the extra pressure outside the system. a diverter valve diverts the air back into the intake.
yeh, agreed & understood...
but if yours is working as a dv... surely you should call it so ?
Just messin wit ya
but if yours is working as a dv... surely you should call it so ?
Just messin wit ya
Pabs said:yeh, agreed & understood...
but if yours is working as a dv... surely you should call it so ?
Just messin wit ya
![[:@]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/furious.gif "Furious [:@]")
Here is the Kit I bought.
http://www.eiptuning.com/eip/blowoffvalve.html
btw thanks for your site helped me with a lot of ideas ... if you want a redesign i'd be very happy to ... PM me (im a web designer)
ive read this whole topic, and under the posts above wud i be right in saying try a bov and if it works it works but it may not. Still confused as hell whether too or not.
stu
stu
skem55 said:
Why? why not redirect the air back into the intake? do you really want the blow off sound so bad?
dj_hektik said:
what's the point in buying such an expensive kit to use as a DV valve?
It may perform faster better than a Forge 007p, but if you're on a stock turbo running sensible levels of boost then then the 007p with the right spring will do the job; These will last forever and you can pick them up used for £40.
The whole point of this discussion was people wanting the BOV sound.
skem55 said:
I think you are just about spot on, and I'll be as balanced in my reply as possible.....
- Your car was never designed to run a BoV, it was designed to run with a recirc valve.
- The HKS seems to be working OK as a BoV but it's £200+ (a recirc valve is £85)
- The HKS can be adapted to run recirc but that makes it a bl00dy expensive recric valve (probably better flogging it on ebay if you have issues)
- With a recirc valve fitted and the ECU running as designed your car is running correctly (i.e, in accordance with VAG tolerances).
The HKS BoV 'may' work faultlessly on your car, however nobody can guarantee 100% you won't have issues. Those issues 'could' be the car running lean (which is scary) or just cause check lights to come on, ECU will back off etc. Most people want their cars running quicker and better not slower.
However, on the other side of this argument / discussion a lot of people in the US have tried the HKS unit with success (and a few in the UK too) all with no sign of any 'issues'.
Who is right? - you decide.....
At the end of the day it's your car, if you want the BoV sound and you are aware there 'May' be a risk then you could try it..........if you want the 'safe' option go for a recirc valve and an induction kit or something
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Ruddmeister said:I think you are just about spot on, and I'll be as balanced in my reply as possible.....
- Your car was never designed to run a BoV, it was designed to run with a recirc valve.
- The HKS seems to be working OK as a BoV but it's £200+ (a recirc valve is £85)
- The HKS can be adapted to run recirc but that makes it a bl00dy expensive recric valve (probably better flogging it on ebay if you have issues)
- With a recirc valve fitted and the ECU running as designed your car is running correctly (i.e, in accordance with VAG tolerances).
The HKS BoV 'may' work faultlessly on your car, however nobody can guarantee 100% you won't have issues. Those issues 'could' be the car running lean (which is scary) or just cause check lights to come on, ECU will back off etc. Most people want their cars running quicker and better not slower.
However, on the other side of this argument / discussion a lot of people in the US have tried the HKS unit with success (and a few in the UK too) all with no sign of any 'issues'.
Who is right? - you decide.....
At the end of the day it's your car, if you want the BoV sound and you are aware there 'May' be a risk then you could try it..........if you want the 'safe' option go for a recirc valve and an induction kit or something
couldn't have put it better myself.
thanks Rudd.... kinda puts it all in one post
Dj Hektik, thanks for the offer RE my website design - tbh its there for a laugh - I do it for fun and hopefully some peeps find it useful. I'm not one for being clever on designs or anything, and tbh its probably more work than its worth, as I get nothing in return from it, other than a few PM's/emails and posts
Thanks anyway though!
Dj Hektik, thanks for the offer RE my website design - tbh its there for a laugh - I do it for fun and hopefully some peeps find it useful. I'm not one for being clever on designs or anything, and tbh its probably more work than its worth, as I get nothing in return from it, other than a few PM's/emails and posts
Thanks anyway though!
Tallpaul said:
Also another thing would be future upgradeability. If i want to change the turbo in future, I won't need a new DV. And it can be used on any other turbo car.
Tallpaul said:
tbh i don't much like it - it's nice on its own but stands out in my otherwise bland engine bay ... maybe it will match more if i polish the air intake pipe and get the Golf bonnet lifters...
bbm
Guest
does ssqv work with BAM type engine from cupra r? if yes, can someone tell me an exact product code (a have to ask a friend from the states to buy this for me but needs a code or somethink to order it) ;
regards,
Mike
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