muddyboots

Still hanging around
Oct 16, 2002
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It sounds to me like your EGR isn't operating, and you're probably getting the same error as those who blank it off with later ECUs.

With regards to the MAF, what sort of run did you do - you really need to do a full power run in 3rd or 4th right through the rev range, and look at actual vs. requested, to know if your MAF is reading correctly or not.
IIRC at low throttle and/or low engine speeds, there can be quite a big difference between actual & requested, which isn't necessarily an issue. It's the full power run you need to look at.
 

cheshire cat

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Dec 28, 2002
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cheshire
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Gavin one or two things to think about, the yanks use JB WELD which is just good quality epoxy, I assume you have removed the valve+some of the stem and it's seat, having blanked off the exhaust stub I would be inclined to leave out the flex connector unless yo want to look exact stock , the large hole in the bottom I blank by -1/ ream a chamfer/ taper at the gasket face---2/ by sealing the bore side with tape and with it up side down fill with epoxxy---3/ then bolt on a steel blanking plate which has a small self tapper thro the centre(short one) let it set and remove tape as previously mentioned elswhere the valve "guide" has a steel insert, when you saw it off approx 1/8-1/4" is unsupported once cut, I wouldn't risk it dropping out when hot, it would be better to remove the flying saucer by cutting round the top remove diaphram/rest of stem, spring oilseal and rest of follower, you can then tap for a hort bolt and epoxy in, flying saucer back on with couple dabs of epoxy or silicone hope I'm not teaching granny to suck eggs;)
 
Jan 22, 2007
2,074
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some may say lala land....
hello all, been on hols and thooght i'd give an update on things.

no more eml or anything over last 350miles.
pulls all the way round even in 6th from 80 to 95 is seemless and smooth.

now to enjoy it while i search for a replacement, to do a wingnut job.

quick q,
When people apply the blanking plate, why to the top of the small bendy arm and not where this attaches. (should that make sense. will etka map out later if can)
 

cheshire cat

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Dec 28, 2002
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cheshire
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.

no more eml or anything over last 350miles.
pulls all the way round even in 6th from 80 to 95 is seemless and smooth.:D

quick q,
When people apply the blanking plate, why to the top of the small bendy arm and not where this attaches. (should that make sense. will etka map out later if can)

no it doesn't:) elaborate-- speaking of small "bendy arms" don't forget to warm the asv diaphram arm/crank before removing else :cry:
 

muddyboots

Still hanging around
Oct 16, 2002
5,739
1
CheshireCat said:
I would be inclined to leave out the flex connector unless yo want to look exact stock , the large hole in the bottom I blank by -1/ ream a chamfer/ taper at the gasket face---2/ by sealing the bore side with tape and with it up side down fill with epoxxy---3/ then bolt on a steel blanking plate which has a small self tapper thro the centre(short one)
Nic

Was going to PM you this question, but as the very subject is being discussed on here I thought I might as well share it.

The above description is how you've done mine isn't it. If I wanted to maintain the stock look, and reconnect the flexible exhaust hose to the bottom of the EGR, do you think if I leave the steel plate/self-tapper/epoxy as it is, will that withstand the heat of the exhaust gas in the flexible pipe ? Is that what everyone on TDIclub etc does, or does JB Weld etc have a higher temp resistance ?
I know there won't be a flow of exhaust gas, as the pipe is effectively a blocked-off stub off the side of the manifold, but I guess it's still going to get pretty hot and that little section of Navara roof is going to conduct heat straight through to the epoxy isn't it.

The other option is of course to remove the flexible pipe, and cap it at the manifold (although I would prefer to keep it looking 100% stock). Guess if I do this, I need a reasonable thickness plate to block the manifold with, to withstand temperature and corrosion. Would some sort of ally plate be OK for that kind of temp, or would steel be better do you reckon ?

Cheers
Lee
 

trebormint

Active Member
Sep 17, 2008
333
0
Swindon
hello all, been on hols and thooght i'd give an update on things.

no more eml or anything over last 350miles.
pulls all the way round even in 6th from 80 to 95 is seemless and smooth.

now to enjoy it while i search for a replacement, to do a wingnut job.

quick q,
When people apply the blanking plate, why to the top of the small bendy arm and not where this attaches. (should that make sense. will etka map out later if can)

Don't attach it to the bendy arm! It will break around the flexi joint. Mine did - on two different cars. Best to put the blanking plate onto the exhaust manifold.
 
Jan 22, 2007
2,074
0
some may say lala land....
wat he sed:D:D that would be my pref' "assuming bendy arm" = flexible connecting pipe-exhaust to inlet:)

yes that is what i meant and going by the many topics this where most people do apply the blanking plate.
i also thing it looks a bit more pro with the flexible connecting pipe-exhaust to inlet (bendy arm) missing.

bendy arm just seemed a good description that i could understand.
 

validwarlord

Guest
Hi Jonjay

Wingnut mod looks the way to go just a couple of quick questions :-

How did you get the plunger out (Pull it Saw It)?
And looking at the photo's did you make your gasket out of some sort of light alloy?
Sorry I bet you have been asked this a thousand times!!

Going to atempt this mod as I have just spoken to a remapping place hear in Derby and they want to charge £250 to map out the EGR!!
 

jonjay

50 Years of 911
Jun 27, 2005
5,843
1
Essex
Hi Jonjay

Wingnut mod looks the way to go just a couple of quick questions :-

How did you get the plunger out (Pull it Saw It)?
And looking at the photo's did you make your gasket out of some sort of light alloy?
Sorry I bet you have been asked this a thousand times!!

Going to atempt this mod as I have just spoken to a remapping place hear in Derby and they want to charge £250 to map out the EGR!!
Hi,

I used a dremelled and various dremel tools to cut and smooth everything out. The gasket type cover was bit of alloy/steel just laying around in AmDs workshop I used. You can buy these from Jabba already made so might be worth getting it from them.
 

validwarlord

Guest
Hi All

Reading with interest this Wingnut mod just read back a page and there is a mention of EDC16 ECU??

I run a 04 Leon Tdi FR do I have to check which ECU I have before starting this mod if so how can I check what ECU I have?
 

cheshire cat

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Dec 28, 2002
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Nic, what's the best way to get the flying saucer off? I think I'm just going to hacksaw that off and seal it the same as the bottom hole. If I'm already thinking about leaving the vacuum pipe disconnected and taking the EGR pipework out then that pretty much puts paid to a "stock" look anyway. Can I just hacksaw the top off, remove the insides, and then take the rest of the metal off? :)
sorry Gavin must have missed this post guess you've done it now :doh: I just saw round the crimped edge so it looks reasonably neat quick lick with a file and once back on looks stock
 

validwarlord

Guest
Hi Nik

Thanks for the info would it be a better idea to use a blanking plate with a 5mm hole as once I have done the Wingnut mod there is no going back?

Also mentioned earlier the mapping out of the EGR is £250 I don't really want to blast ahead only to find I have to spend the money on mapping again.
 

cheshire cat

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Dec 28, 2002
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cheshire
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Hi Nik

Thanks for the info would it be a better idea to use a blanking plate with a 5mm hole as once I have done the Wingnut mod there is no going back?

Also mentioned earlier the mapping out of the EGR is £250 I don't really want to blast ahead only to find I have to spend the money on mapping again.
well you could put the hole in or do it later if it becomes troublesome, (bit of a pain) Unless you are going for major mods later on here's a different take on it. If I were doing it again and the egr isn't leaking oil, I would clean it out(if needed) then I would rig a switched valve into the vac line, that way i could use it during warm-up in winter and isolate the signal the rest of the time:) unless you like a lot of cutting and grinding[B)]
 

validwarlord

Guest
Hi Nic (Name Spelt Right This Time)

Doing the switch mod to the vac line would this again turn the CEL light on because effectively it's the same as blanking off the vac line.
Shame I don't live closer to you.
 

cheshire cat

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Dec 28, 2002
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cheshire
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Hi Nic (Name Spelt Right This Time)

Doing the switch mod to the vac line would this again turn the CEL light on because effectively it's the same as blanking off the vac line.
Shame I don't live closer to you.
yes if you're going to get a light it will only reverse it-which may become a pain- but it would be usefull in winter for a quicker warm up, try blocking the pipe and see what happens first
 

validwarlord

Guest
Hi Nic

Tried blocking off the Vav pipe already to the EGR and it does put the CEL lighy on I can reset it its just a pain every 10 miles or so.
Hopefully going to get the EGR turned down with VAG-Com very soon so we will see what that does I might ask him to increase the air flow whilist his VAG-Com is connected.
 
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