EGR Delete, yes or no?

Stevo-91

Stevo!
Jun 1, 2010
89
0
Hamilton/Glasgow
Hi am looking for some advice.

I can get hold of an Allard EGR delete pipe for £35 including fitting for my PD130 My question is 1. Is it worth doing and 2. Would it cause any problems to the car?

I have heard that the engine management light comes on after fitting it but can be cleared using Vagcom?? Or will I need to get the car mapped again??

Cheers for any info.
 

Stevo-91

Stevo!
Jun 1, 2010
89
0
Hamilton/Glasgow
Haha are you johns mate with the yellow Cupra??

If I fit it and leave the light on will it cause problems elsewhere? Would you recommend doing it or better leaving it the way it is??
 

AndyC567

Full Member
Feb 28, 2006
277
1
Saw this thread and thought I would ask a question about EGR..

On my old 110 Toledo that I just sold I followed a VagCom procedure to effectively disable the EGR.

Question is, will thye same VAGCom procedure work on my Ibiza 130 PD ?

Thanks Guy's
 

Red Panda

Active Member
Apr 18, 2010
368
0
Not telling
I have minimised my EGR via software and have also fitted one of these rather than a full blanking plate as I didn't want the engine management light to come on.

It feels less hesitant on dropping from higher speeds down to 2nd going into a sharp bend. I've just got it through an MOT with no problems at all. TBH it wasn't a night and day change for me but I'm glad I did both mods.
 

grq

Giggity
Jun 9, 2005
170
0
I installed an EGR delete pipe from Allards last summer and have had no problems since! I didn't have any lights come on either!

Fuel consumption hasn't been affected, car seems to go a little better as well! The only difference is when I turn the engine off there's a shudder because it's been removed.

On another note my mechanic noticed my EGR delete and told me the engine might run hot because of it, but it hasn't with me.
 

Tiz

Guest
I deleted my EGR, plugged the vacuum line and have had no lights or problems. Engine feels more responsive. Its more of a longevity mod as it stops the intake etc clogging up over time so maintains your power and MPG which would start to drop off as everything starts to get clogged.

On the other hand i think anybody who gets rid of their anti shudder valve is insane. The shut down shudder is nothing really but if the engine was ever to pick up on its own oil which is quite a common occurance for diesels especially as the mileages start to increase now. Quick flick of the key like normal butterfly closes and the engine shuts down. Without this you would either have to try and stall the engine or cover the intake with something either aren't obvious to you in the panic when your engine picks up. Ive had it happen and its not nice.

I completely cut the EGR valve insides out of my standard EGR pipe, ported it all out so its nice, round and smooth inside. Blanked the outlet off on the exhaust manifold. That way ive still got the EGR deleted, good flow characteristics of the allard pipe, retain the original intercooler connections and still keep my anti shudder valve
 

DrV

Guest
Tutorial extracted from seatibizanet, done by Sevi in that forum.
It seems that I dont have permissions enough in this forum to post images or link anything, the original post has sceenshots for all the steps.

HOW TO DISABLE EGR BY SOFTWARE


Tools required:

Laptop
OBDII cable
VAG-COM Software

1. Plug in the OBBDII cable to the car and start the engine, the car temperature should be service temp (engine already warmed up)
2. Start Vag-Com and access the control module clicking "Select"
3. Access engine conctrol module pressing "Engine 01"
4. Press "login 11" to access the screen where the activation code has to be introduced
5. Input activation code "12233" in the only input box avaliable, press "Do it!"
6. In the previous screen click on "Adaptation - 10" to access the channels with the engine's values
7. Acess channel 03 and in the "Stored Value" box the code "32768" should appear, meaning the EGR valve is active. Check the field labeled as "Mass air/rev" it should be aound 250Mg/g
8. In the "New Value" field input "33768" and press TEST, check the "Mass air/rev" value after, it should be around 370 now, this value might be +-25 around 370
9. Press SAVE to save the changes, a confirmation dialog will come up, press YES to validate.

We are done at this point, EGR disabled. Press "Done,go back" and close the program if you dont wish to make any additional changes. Dont panic as the ECU will change the "33768" value to "33638", this is absolutely normal.

To reactivate the EGR valve, follow the same procedure and set the value to "32768" instead.
 

DrV

Guest
And now, my experience with EGR disabling.

I bought my TDI100 beeza 2nd hand with 18.000km already and done the modification above. I had no real reasons to do it but only prevent the manifold/engine to suck all the dirt the EGR may load.
Some people had issues at low revs with TDI engines (around 2000rpm,rpm gain was not smooth) and solved it by disbling the EGR.


Anyway, I disabled it at 20.000km and after 45.000km I noticed the EGR valve was leaking (black oil all over it), meaning that the software disable should not be done alone but also disable it mechanically.
Even though the valve does not open, exess air/dirt comes to it and after some time the seals start to leak because of the pressure of the gas recirculation.

Mechanical disable > software

The best option is to do both because when altering the parameter the ECU will not have into account the air feed from the EGR.
 

Tiz

Guest
I didnt take a picture of my own when I did it but i found this one on google.

ok tried to show it here but i dont have enough posts... Check out this thread on here "EGR - dazed & confused" search that as the title pretty much step by step images on gutting the EGR

Mine is pretty similar to that but mine is fully rounded out without the flats. The holes left by the plunger i filled with chemical metal, let it set over night and smoothed that in too. Its held for well over a year and 20k miles. Also blocked super charger silencer ports up on an eaton m45 so have no doubt over the strength of chemical metal
 
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