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fitting a PD150 Turbo - Priming Oil into The Turbo ?

Discussion in 'Leon Mk1 (2000-2006)' started by M20FES, Mar 1, 2013.

  1. M20FES

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    Anyone know how easy it is to swap over a turbo on a PD150. job i might do over the weekend if i can pick up a recon unit ?

    any fitting guides anywhere ?
     
    #1 M20FES, Mar 1, 2013
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2013
  2. glynnd

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    Its pretty straight forward to be fair.
    Mke sure you fill the turbo oil feed, connect the top oil feed pipe and crank for a few seconds before letting the engine run.
     
  3. M20FES

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    Thanks, would it be worth changing the oil feed pipe while iam at it ?
     
    #3 M20FES, Mar 1, 2013
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2013
  4. glynnd

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    Nah, I dont think so. I didnt change mine. Just be careful when you are disconnecting it.
     
  5. M20FES

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    so disconnect the TIP, intercooler hose, and oil feed and undo the 8 turbo manifold bolts and see how it comes off ?
     
    #5 M20FES, Mar 1, 2013
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2013
  6. M20FES

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    been offered a Garrett GT1749VB recon unit for £350 with 15,000 miles on it, with rebuild receipt ?

    That sound good ?
     
    #6 M20FES, Mar 1, 2013
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2013
  7. jasc1988

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    Yeah clean the vanes before you put it in
     
  8. turboboy

    turboboy Limp Mode Squad ™

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    Get a bigger turbo ;-)
     
  9. M20FES

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    Vanes have been checked by BTN Turbo when it was rebuilt 15,000 miles ago. Says in report Vanes assembly moves freely


    I would do, but not sure the cars being kept yet, this is just a stop gap to keep the car going until i decide. bigger turbo means silly money and clutch etc
     
    #9 M20FES, Mar 1, 2013
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2013
  10. jasc1988

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    Yes that was 15k miles ago!

    While its off clean exhaust side with mr muscle foam oven cleaner
     
  11. M20FES

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    Ok, will do thanks. hopefully picking it up tonight. agreed £300 in the end
     
  12. anni25pd

    anni25pd Active Member

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    Its not an overly difficult job, made alot easier with drivers side driveshaft out or disconnected at gearbox end. I do like to replace the oil feed pipe (HEL line is only around £25 for peace of mind) also like to take oil return to sump pipe off & immerse in petrol to clean.
    Prime turbo with fresh oil, once fitted disconnect injector harness on side of head & crank over until you see oil flow from return (does take a bit) reconnect then fire engine.
    Does thro 18072 fault code which will need cleared with vcds or similar.

    Does involve more stripping taking from the top so height off the deck is your friend 
     
    #12 anni25pd, Mar 1, 2013
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2013
  13. smudge2011

    smudge2011 Active Member

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    Be careful on the oil feed pipe decision! Depends where you get it from, but I work for Euro Car Parts and if you don't change the oil feed pipe it invalidates the warranty on the turbo!

    Might be worth checking from where ever you plan to get it from.
     
  14. k1_cupra

    k1_cupra Active Member

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    Personally would change the Oil feed and return pipe at the same time just for peace of mind atleast you know its been done! Also removing drivers driveshaft would make it a bit easier for space as said above. Everything can be accessed from underneath. if you get stuck for room remove the inlet manifold and you will have alot more room and can even unbolt the exhaust manifold from the top.
     
  15. M20FES

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    Ok thanks for all the comments. i will replace the lines just as a precaution then seeing as iam in that area
     
  16. joshy514

    joshy514 Fleet Air Arm by ability.

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    If you want to take a drive to Cornwall, we can stick her on a ramp and do it. I've done mine twice over the last week! Just before you spend £350 on a recon unit with miles on it, I sent mine to midland turbo's, £222 for seals bearings and chemical clean, obviously balancing too. If you send on a monday, you'll have it back by wednesday. Free carriage with this, gaskets also. It's not just a case of remove the 8 manifold bolts AT ALL!!!! theres an oil drain, 22mm spanner, you'll need 12mm sockets and spanners, (mine were 12mm but others are 13mm) To make your life alot easier, remove the o/s driveshaft. There is also a little heatshield with two 12mm nuts on, tricky to get too with tip fitted, but just unclip the tip and move it as far away as you can. Also, the OEM oil feed pipe is very easily bent, so be very careful, it.s a 17mm on top of turbo, with a 17mm banjo bolt on the engine end, which is a bitch to get back on with the two copper washers. I bought a darkside braided one, alot easier as it allows the pipe to be bent for access to the engine one, and it has a banjo bolt for the turbo, so it's easier to just put a 17mm socket on top of the turbo. One more thing, when you prime the turbo, leave the oil drain off and prime in lots of 10 seconds until oil pours out, but fill the turbo with oil before, a syringe works well. You'll probably be better off doing an oil and filter change, and obviously new gaskets. thoroughly clean the boost pipes whilst they're off, and I cleaned my cooler with hp air and just plugged the pipe in there with rags and left for 20 mins. I was surprised how much oil was in mine considering I didn't actually suffer a turbo failure. Whilst you're at it, you'd be a fool not to clean the inlet manifold too. Hope this helps, it's all in my RR with pictures too.
     
  17. joshy514

    joshy514 Fleet Air Arm by ability.

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    Oh, and this is me just finished fitting mine, hands are still black!
     
  18. M20FES

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    Just ordered a darkside developments braided oil feed line, so ill wait for that before I attempt to fit. I guess I can have a go at cleaning up the turbo before its fitted. I didn't bother getting a new oil return line, they look like a part you won't damage on removal unlike the feed line.....Iam I wrong ?

    [​IMG]

    The turbo unit has come back from BTN Turbo last week and under inspection is in perfect working condition. The story was, the guy i got it from had his cambelt snap and the garage that was carrying out the repair told him his turbos probably gone aswell. It was still under warranty so he sent it back to BTN turbo for inspection but they couldnt find anything wrong with it. Cause they was taking so long to inspect it he got another turbo unit direct from Seat as he needed the car for work and was hoping to get a refund on this one thinking it would be faulty, but they rejected his claim cause it was fine, so he ended up selling it.......to me. Just hope the report is correct.
    [​IMG]

    Pics of the turbo i picked up last night
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #18 M20FES, Mar 2, 2013
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2013
  19. M20FES

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    Will i need new oil return and turbo manifold gaskets ?
     
  20. cocadave

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    I have done mine twice (pd150) and have just done my brothers 2 days ago (pd130), every time i have gone in from the top,

    first off remove the top IC pipe
    then remove EGR valve, good time to remove the pipe and fit blanking plates if you haven't already?
    then get underneath and remove the 3 bolts from the down pipe and then oil return pipe and finally the TIP (a couple of 10mm bolts, 1 under egr valve and other on top of intake maifold) long nose mole grip work a treat for the clip on the turbo end.
    back from above now,
    remove the intake manfold and the oil feed pipe, careful not to twist it as it becomes quite brittle over time and then finally remove the 8 12mm nuts from the exhaust manifold.

    if i remember i think i had to take off the rocker cover on the pdp150 to get the turbo out from behind, i think was due to the egr cooler.

    hope this helps a bit, i can now remove a turbo in around 1 hour now...
     

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