Freetrack propshaft coupling (again)

ritch_b

Active Member
Jul 27, 2012
131
1
Oop north
Chaps,

I had the propshaft coupling replaced on the Freetrack last May; I was so chuffed with the results that I even posted a thread about it, along with some photos of the failed coupling. Much happy driving followed.

After hearing a familiar sound last week, as well as feeling that familiar vibration (oo-er), the chariot went up on the ramps at the weekend and somewhat amazingly, the new coupling has failed, albeit in a different manner to last time, as the rubber damper has, quite literally, ripped itself away from the main body of the bearing.

The part came from TPS and in order to try claiming under warranty, I'm having to book it in to the Main Stealer, pay a "diagnostic" fee of nearly £90 and let them lift it up on a ramp and visually inspect the coupling, which is about two minutes' work. This just adds greatly to my annoyance and disbelief of the failure of a new (10 months, 10,000 miles) and very expensive part.

Has anyone else had the indignity of the coupling failing so soon after its just been replaced? Seems seriously unlikely to me, but I thought I'd ask.

Also, given that the same part is common to the Golf, A3, Yeti, Superb, Octavia, Tiguan and more VAG models, why is it that only the Freetrack seems to have this obscenely high failure rate? It seems like nearly every Freetrack owner on the forum is either experiencing the problem or has had to have the coupling replaced. Given that there are only 600-700 Freetracks in the UK, the percentage failing seems rather high and I suspect that, on a more popular model, there'd be a recall. What's so different about the Freetrack that this part fails so often? There's clearly a design fault with the vehicle, isn't there?!

R.
 

ritch_b

Active Member
Jul 27, 2012
131
1
Oop north
Well, as a follow-up, today I had the joy of being patronised, ignored and largely made to feel like an idiot at the main dealer who announced that they didn't think there was anything wrong with the coupling; that's despite visible tearing to the rubber and me being able to replicate the noise and vibration without problem.

Apparently the damaged rubber isn't a problem and they couldn't replicate the problem, although in an area that's surrounded by roads where you can't get enough speed up to replicate it, that's not surprising.

Instead, I was told to change the rear tyres and have the front rebalanced too. My response was that up until last week, it was on my winter tyres and the issue was present on those, as it is on the newly fitted and balanced summer tyres. I don't think they believed me.

The fact that the symptoms could never be caused by a tyre imbalance was also lost on them; an imbalance would lead to the symptoms being present permanently over a particular speed, which they're not. The symptoms, as discussed previously on the forum, are only present between a narrow rev band which coincides with the vehicle being under load and around peak torque. Changing up or down a gear at this point alleviates the problem, even if speed is maintained, so the tyre argument fails miserably.

The mechanic who initially looked at the coupling passed me a copy of the Seat service bulletin in which the issue is mentioned to be a known problem; these bulletins are generated following feedback on issues and failures from main dealers. The bulletin suggests re-balancing the tyres (no idea why, as these are easily discounted through a test drive) and then goes on to detail re-balancing the weights on the coupling. Unfortunately, the senior mechanic, on seeing me with the service bulletin, literally ripped the thing from my hands and told me that I shouldn't have it. Well yes, I can imagine that a customer isn't supposed to have the document that confirms a known fault with their vehicle!

If you haven't noticed yet, I'm exceedingly annoyed at the handling of the issue. Their only other suggestion was that I pay them dealer rates to have the coupling replaced and then, if the faulty part is found to be, you know, faulty, I'd be refunded fully. With labour rates at around £90 per hour, I'd rather chew my own leg off, to be blunt.

The issue has now been raised formally with Seat and although I'm not confident of a positive outcome, I'll wait with interest to see what they come back with. If push comes to shove, I'll have the coupling replaced again, but not at the main dealer. I may also not purchase an OEM replacement from TPS, but may go for one that FEBI offer; I'm not sure if FEBI make the original part, but if not, I'm minded to think it can't be any worse and prices online are much more reasonable than from TPS.

Time will tell.

Yours exceedingly grumpily.

R.
 

Cupra Ross

Breaks things............
May 15, 2005
1,380
1
Edinburgh, Scotland
Rich,

The original part is made by Lemforder. I bought the Febi part when I replaced mine. Half the price and can't possibly perform worse than the original, which on my car was droning at 47000 miles, and probably long before this.

It's not confined to the Freetrack, I think the Audi A3 Quattro seems to have the highest number of complaints, unsurprisingly because it's the most common car to share this part. I think SEAT might surprise you and replace the part. Highlight the forum thread to them.
 

mowatts01

Active Member
Apr 10, 2015
9
0
i have received my new coupling in the post the Febi one works out at £112 delivered now what id like to know is this a straight forward remove and refit with the 6 bolts? or is there more to it?
 

ritch_b

Active Member
Jul 27, 2012
131
1
Oop north
I didn't fit mine myself, but as far as I can see, it should just be a case of removing the old, fitting the new and torquing it up, although again, I'm not sure what it needs torquing up to.

Check the existing coupling, and the new, just in case there are any indication marks on it that need using to line the part up, but as it's just a big bearing, I'm not convinced there will be any. I'm sure somebody who's done the deed will confirm or deny!

R.
 

Cupra Ross

Breaks things............
May 15, 2005
1,380
1
Edinburgh, Scotland
The exhaust needs to be dropped off the hangers to get enough clearance to remove the bolts. You should also use new bolts. The originals are the chocolate VW stretch bolts and can't be re-torqued without risking snapping them. You'll need 3 new hex bolts and three new 12 point bolts.


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mowatts01

Active Member
Apr 10, 2015
9
0
any idea of the torque setting for these bolts orwhere i could find them and any part number for the bolts? cheers
 
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