Front and rear pad fitting??

[loveturbopower]

Hey Guys, now i know some of you mite give me greif but i have searched and couldnt find a guide, lol but basically im no mechanic but ive changed pads, discs, lowered my car, fitted intercoolers etc but obv some cars are different to others, ive just picked up my new standard pads for front and rear, im going to get a garage to do the rear for me as sounds abit of mission, but im going to do the fronts later, this is the way i would do it so could you tell me if this would be correct on our mk3 ibiza cupras please

1. Wheel off (obviously)
2. Undo caliper bolts
3. Old pads out
4. Undo nipple
5. Push pistons back with g-clamp
6.New pads in
7. Pump the pedal to get some old fluid out
8.Do nipple up
9.Pump brakes with engine running
10. Refil brake fluid if neccesary

Would that be correct?? i dont it this way on my first two cars and on my stepdads zafira

Also are the rears really that difficult, i mean i can get hold of a rewind tool if needed but i dnt understand about the handbrake side of it??

Thanks guys

 

[PhilW]

No need to undo the bleed nipple, the caliper will push back on its own, althought the pot is threaded so you'd be advised to use a wind back tool to do it.

 

[loveturbopower]

Oh, wudnt i need to let some fluid out tho otherwise my brake fluid level will be over max?? Also cant it mess up the master cylinder if you try to force the fluid the wrong way through??

 

[Seat Adam]

7. Pump the pedal to get some old fluid out
I wouldn't do this part as when you lift the pedal up it will suck air back into the system unless you've got a bleed bottle connected up with fluid in it to stop the air coming back.
I would also do the nipple up after you've pushed the piston back to stop any air entering and the rest of the fluid draining out. Unless you're going to do a fluid change as well, as this needs doing every 2 years. Also, only do one side at a time so you don't start pushing the other side piston out. Can still do that with the nipple open.
The handbrake is an easy one as long as you have the wind back tool. I'm not sure about the Ibiza but some cars' rears callipers need winding back and some don't. Also, before you wind back the rears, make sure you slacken the handbrake cable so that you can adjust it up once the new pads are fitted. This isn't always done in garages either.
One other thing I have found out in the past is that the calliper bolts will probably need a dab of loctite on them for refitting as it is known that these bolts can work their way loose, unless you're using new bolts which have the wax stuff on them.

 

[loveturbopower]

Ok so ill try again, so, take old pads out, undo bleed nipple?? push pot back, put new pads in, then do nipple up and pump brakes?? with engine running or not?? god i hate hydraulics lol

 

[Seat Adam]

Almost. Take pads out, undo nipple, push back piston, do up nipple, fit new pads. fit unit then pump them out. Not necessary engine running, only taking up the air gap between new pads and discs.
I find it best to undo the nipples as the master cylinder can get buggered up from the seals turning inside out when the fluid pushes against them.

 

[Reuvers]

don't know why you want to undo the nipple? I never have.

But then I also don't understand why you're getting the rears done, as they are just as easy as the fronts. Waste of money imo...

 

[loveturbopower]

Cool, think i got it now, il let u know how i got on later, as im not that great with braking systems do u think its best i leave the rear to a mechy as i have to drive 50miles to work and back each day and cant afford to let it go wrong like

 

[loveturbopower]

Ok ive decided i might give the rears a go, so i need a piston rewind tool right and is it the same as fronts but insted i need to slacken the handbrake cables first??

 

[Seat Adam]

Basically the same. All depends if the rear pistons are wind back ones. By that, the handbrake works through the pistons. If the pistons are forced back with a G-clamp or wound back the wrong way, it could bugger the handbrake part of the calliper. Some pistons are sided, meaning they will only wind back either clockwise or anti. Again not sure about the Ibiza. Some cars are both say clockwise or anti, or one of each. You only know when you start winding back as it will either turn or it won't.
All you got to do with the handbrake cable is slacken it from the lever in the car or where ever the adjuster is so that the the new pads are adjusted to the handbrake. After a few days you will find the handbrake needs adjusting again once it has all settled in.

 

[loveturbopower]

Ok i mite give it a go, if successful il make a sticky out of it as im sure there are other members that are unsure on how to do it.

Cheers guys

 

[PhilW]

As i've already said, theres no need touch the bleed nipple unless your pads and discs are so worn that the piston has come out so far and got jammed.

Under normall wear this wont have happened. So just wind back the rear piston and replace the pads.


Simple.

 

[Reuvers]

agreed. Don;t make it more difficult for yourself, and leave the bleed nipple as it is, as getting the air out afterwards without proper tool sometimes proves to be a hassle...

And why be scared of the rear for safety reasons, but do the front yourself? Doesn't make much sense imo

 

[malcpw]

I've done the rears on mine recently and my daughter's Passat. Essentially the same set up. Don't slacken bleed nipples not necessary. A screw back tool is not absolutely necessary but will make life much easier because you do need to turn the pistons as you compress them back into the calipers. They both need to turn clockwise to screw back in.

You don't need to do anything with the handbrake it will look after itself. You only need to play with that if fitting new cables or changing a caliper.

If your concerned about fluid over flowing the master cyl reservoir just un screw cap but leave in place and surround cylinder reservoir with a rag to catch any excess. Be very careful with the rag if any excess gets on it. If you drip any on your paint work you will really regret it.


Hope this is helpful

Malcolm

 

[Reuvers]

ok mate because I am nice, here is a guide for the rears:

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=161196

this is actualy a thread to show replacing the hub, but carries out all the steps you need to do to get rear brakes off.

All you need to do extra is wind the piston back slightly to fit the new pads and discs.

 

[RUM4MO]

I've done the rears on mine recently and my daughter's Passat. Essentially the same set up. Don't slacken bleed nipples not necessary. A screw back tool is not absolutely necessary but will make life much easier because you do need to turn the pistons as you compress them back into the calipers. They both need to turn clockwise to screw back in.

You don't need to do anything with the handbrake it will look after itself. You only need to play with that if fitting new cables or changing a caliper.

If your concerned about fluid over flowing the master cyl reservoir just un screw cap but leave in place and surround cylinder reservoir with a rag to catch any excess. Be very careful with the rag if any excess gets on it. If you drip any on your paint work you will really regret it.


Hope this is helpful

Malcolm

I totally agree with all that, normally you don't need to add any brake fluid, so unless the pads are all well worn, then the fluid is changed - and then the pads are all changed, there should be no need to remove any fluid. If the fluid level is currently very high, then you could buy a "turkey baster" and remove and dispose of some fluid before you start this job.

 

[cupra.al]

i hope he didnt undo that bleed nipple otherwise he would be better off leaving the brakes as they were,undoing the brake fluid reservoir cap will be fine if its at max and you push the piston back it wont be a great amount come out if any. just as long as he pumps the pedal before doing the rear pads. or driving.

 

[loveturbopower]

Just done the fronts this morning took about an hour and half including test drive and they are perfect thanks for the advice guys, rears tmoro tho :S

 

[cuprabaz]

I haven't changed my rear pads for a while but are our cars right or left handed threads on the caliper, I'm away to order myself a wind back tool.

 

[venner]

Im about to fit rear discs and pads to my cupra as they came through today.

So thanks for the tips just read the guide.

So i will need:

Discs and pads
Wind back tool
Copper Grease
Lock Tight

I also need to remember to leave handbrake off and also undo brake fluid reservoir cap and put a rag around it just incase.

And we all agree to leave the nipples alone then?

Can any1 remember if it winds back clockwise or anti clockwise?