Thing is a dynatwist is designed to work with a heat shield, whereas an open cone filter isn't... so by removing the shield your actually removing part of the "build" of the induction kit. I would say put the shield back on and see if you gain those 2-3 PSI back... I disagree but also agree on parts lol
I very much dounbt the shield has anything to do with it. In fact it flows a hell of a lot better without the shield. And thats coming from experience. You've done something wrong or have a boost leak. Log 115.
I'm not entirely convinced on it all either - just stuff that i've heard. But from experience, a change in air filter shouldn't lose 2-3PSI at all. I've tried loads of induction kits with CAI's on and off etc etc but boost was always the same. Out of interests, I reconnected my N249 and n112 ETC just like the std set-uip this morning and now it only boosts to 18psi - didn't change anything else at all - it normally boosts to 20-22psi without them connected!
that's what i didn't do...reset the ecu and realign throttle bodies. maybe that'll help me. do you need to that?
I did mine after bypassing. Gained 1 PSI ) Peaking around 20 in 3rd 4th 5th..., now peaks 21 in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th lol Mike
Done the mod on my Cupra tonight, as per the pictures in this thread. First impressions are good , the car is smoother on and off boost (on and off throttle) as it was a little "jerky" before , the DV is working quicker and is definatly louder/crisper as i couldn't hear it inside the car before but i can now. Also seems to hold boost a little longer to and be less "laggy" between gear changes. Overall all positive , definatly a worth while mod considering it only takes 10mins
hey people. just read all 8 pages and i gotta say it looks really interesting! just one thing though..... 'TTS Roadsport' mentioned the hoses melting and fuse blowing. if i was to do mine like this (picture below) would i be risking it or is there a way to avoid this from happening? any other people experienced this? thanks peeps
sorry don't mean to sound paranoid, but there's still that risk isn't it? not really that hands on with cars, just wanna make sure i know what i'm doin! cheers
If your worried mate get some insulation tube for the silicone , just cover it where its likely to get hot or come in to contact with hot metal
It looks much tidier and I arranged the hosing so it stayed off the rocker cover and using all the original heat sheathing. I copied Mike's and flipped the valves upside down and bolted them to the rocker cover which gives them alot more support than if they're bolted the 'correct' way up. It looks much tidier now, still dirty though. The dump is much louder than before although I haven't noticed any performance differences as the car still isn't running properly Excuse the butchered Dynatwist, I need to get the casing polished up, although it does sound rather nice right now! Maybe I need a nice red or stainless steel filter hehe.
well worth it i must admit tidys up the engine bay and sounds better once done and seems to have a better pick up. shouldent take to long for you to do it really only bit i had a problem with was getting the new tube over the forge dump valave nipple.
i have just done this mod as well last night, the first impressions seem good. theres slightly less lag between gears and the dv is definetly sounding nicer, plus im only running standard power at the moment. im sure this will have an even greater effect when i get the car remapped.
Just got my Revo done on the weekend and i've noticed slight lag after gear changes when i'm giving it some. Could the n249 bypass help this?? cheers people