gearbox oil
- Thread starter cypher007
- Start date
Depends on the gearbox, and yes it does matter in the case of these particular oils, there are warnings not to mix the full synthetic with anything else.
Right, got some more info. It depends on the gearbox your car has, which you need to check on the build sheet in the boot or in the Service handbook.
Some of the gearboxes are listed below, with the oil they were filled with at the factory.
EBD, EBF, EBJ, EBM, EBS, EGW
Oil for pinions API GL4 SAE 75W90 (Synthetic, high performance)
EGR, EGS, EGV, FBK
Oil API GL4 SAE 75W (Hypoid)
My Toledo TDI 110 has an EGS gearbox (mineral oil) but it is also listed with the EBF gearbox (synthetic oil)
The warning from SEAT is as follows:
* There is a new mineral gear oil API GL4 SAE 75W (Hypoid) in accordance with TL 726 /Y. This type of oil can only be used in gearboxes where it is specified and must never be used in gearboxes that incorporate the previous oil API GL4 SAE 75W90 (Synthetic, high performance)
* Due to the incompatibility between these types of oils, they must never be mixed as they change the properties of the lubricant.
Some of the gearboxes are listed below, with the oil they were filled with at the factory.
EBD, EBF, EBJ, EBM, EBS, EGW
Oil for pinions API GL4 SAE 75W90 (Synthetic, high performance)
EGR, EGS, EGV, FBK
Oil API GL4 SAE 75W (Hypoid)
My Toledo TDI 110 has an EGS gearbox (mineral oil) but it is also listed with the EBF gearbox (synthetic oil)
The warning from SEAT is as follows:
* There is a new mineral gear oil API GL4 SAE 75W (Hypoid) in accordance with TL 726 /Y. This type of oil can only be used in gearboxes where it is specified and must never be used in gearboxes that incorporate the previous oil API GL4 SAE 75W90 (Synthetic, high performance)
* Due to the incompatibility between these types of oils, they must never be mixed as they change the properties of the lubricant.
bum
checked the lable in the boot and it says next to ASV, which im guessing is the engine code, EGS!!!. i wouldnt mind but millers said i could use there TRX fully synth 75w90 and when i use my reg on the castrol site it recomends TAF-X fully synthetic 75w90. so what can we do to go fully synthetic on these gearboxes? also are you saying in your last post that yours is listed as a EGS on the label but an EBF on some sites?
checked the lable in the boot and it says next to ASV, which im guessing is the engine code, EGS!!!. i wouldnt mind but millers said i could use there TRX fully synth 75w90 and when i use my reg on the castrol site it recomends TAF-X fully synthetic 75w90. so what can we do to go fully synthetic on these gearboxes? also are you saying in your last post that yours is listed as a EGS on the label but an EBF on some sites?
I'm getting my info from Elsawin, the VAG electronic service guides.
It says that the ASV engine in Leons and Toledos around 2001 is associated with two gearboxes, EBF or EGS. The gearbox section shows that EGS is filled with mineral oil at the factory and EBF is filled with synthetic.
The warning not to mix the two is plainly stated, but I suspect it is aimed at topping up, rather than complete replacement.
If it were me, I'd replace the oil with an equivalent mineral oil. But I expect it will be acceptable to drain all the old oil out, flush with synthetic then fill.
It says that the ASV engine in Leons and Toledos around 2001 is associated with two gearboxes, EBF or EGS. The gearbox section shows that EGS is filled with mineral oil at the factory and EBF is filled with synthetic.
The warning not to mix the two is plainly stated, but I suspect it is aimed at topping up, rather than complete replacement.
If it were me, I'd replace the oil with an equivalent mineral oil. But I expect it will be acceptable to drain all the old oil out, flush with synthetic then fill.
, it cost me £22 for 2 ltres of millers TRX!!! not exactly flushing oil. incidentaly im going to use a fully synthetic engine oil, where the previous owner used probably a Castrol semi-synthetic, i hope i dont have a similar
ok
ive spoken to millers, and they recon that a 75w hypoid that is gl4 is wierd and that if its hypoid it should be 80w-90 and gl5, he also said as it is an 03 plate its most likely a semi-synthetic oil. anyway i told him my plan and he recons the small amount of residual mineral oil would be fine mixing with the fully synthetic. so i think i will risk it and maybe just change it next year after about 6k or so, then its at least done some work before i drop it.
ive spoken to millers, and they recon that a 75w hypoid that is gl4 is wierd and that if its hypoid it should be 80w-90 and gl5, he also said as it is an 03 plate its most likely a semi-synthetic oil. anyway i told him my plan and he recons the small amount of residual mineral oil would be fine mixing with the fully synthetic. so i think i will risk it and maybe just change it next year after about 6k or so, then its at least done some work before i drop it.
I'd be surprised if you change the gearbox oil more than once in the life of the car. Given that SEAT warn against mixing the special mineral oil with a synthetic, I'd replace like-with-like. The gearbox is not meant to need refilling at all, being "filled for life". I have made the arbitrary decision that "life" in this case means 100,000 miles, by which time the gearbox oil is going to be pretty tired. There will be benefits from replacing it with new oil, but I can't imagine there'd be much extra benefit from a premium oil, unless you were thinking of going in for racing.
Checking the gearbox oil level is tricky. The gearbox will have a fill plug and a drain plug, and the correct level is when oil starts to trickle out of the fill plug. When you are on a level surface. So the only way to tell is by topping up the gearbox until it trickles out again. On a level surface, not jacked up: you need a pit or a lift to do this. Mind you, if it needs more than a spoonful then you need to worry about where the oil has gone, the usual answer being onto the clutch. Obviously, topping up has to be done with the same type of oil it was filled with in the first place.
Checking the gearbox oil level is tricky. The gearbox will have a fill plug and a drain plug, and the correct level is when oil starts to trickle out of the fill plug. When you are on a level surface. So the only way to tell is by topping up the gearbox until it trickles out again. On a level surface, not jacked up: you need a pit or a lift to do this. Mind you, if it needs more than a spoonful then you need to worry about where the oil has gone, the usual answer being onto the clutch. Obviously, topping up has to be done with the same type of oil it was filled with in the first place.
Cheers Muttley.
The problem I have is a very small trickle of oil that lies underneath the car engine just beyond the drip tray. Had it since i got the car over a year ago, but it has never lost any oil level on the dipstick which made me wonder if it may be from the gearbox. Had a garage check it at it's last service but they could not tell where it was coming from and just advised me to check my engine oil level regularly in case it got worse, which it hasn't.
The problem I have is a very small trickle of oil that lies underneath the car engine just beyond the drip tray. Had it since i got the car over a year ago, but it has never lost any oil level on the dipstick which made me wonder if it may be from the gearbox. Had a garage check it at it's last service but they could not tell where it was coming from and just advised me to check my engine oil level regularly in case it got worse, which it hasn't.
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