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Guide: How to fix the common leaking rear washer pipe in the Boot/Passenger footwell

Discussion in 'Mk2 Leon FAQ's (1P) 2006-2012' started by nc30rider, Feb 24, 2010.

  1. nc30rider

    nc30rider Full Member

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    I had to fix it myself so I decided to write a small guide on how to fix the common washer jet leak in the boot/passenger rear footwell. Appologies for the quality of the pictures, I used my phone to take them.

    1. Remove the rear Parcel shelf

    2. Undo the 2 screws shown in the picture and remove the O/S parcel shelf support. To remove it, give it a good hard tug starting at the rear near the tailgate.

    [​IMG]

    3. Remove the screw arrowed (1) and the trim clip arrowed (2) holding the wheel arch carpet.

    [​IMG]

    4. Pull back the carpet and you should just be able to see the pipe next to the wiring loom.

    [​IMG]

    5. I dried the 2 parts then put a small amount of superglue on the male part. Holding the female part with a pair of long-nose pliers it is possible to push the other part home with your fingers.

    6. Leave for ½ an hour while the glue dries, use this time to ensure the jet is not blocked with a needle.

    7. Refitting is reversal of above. :D :D :D

    Superglueing the pipe is something I did to stop it coming apart again, this might not be the best solution for everyone
     
    #1 nc30rider, Feb 24, 2010
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2010
  2. mds1256

    mds1256 Facelift Leon Cupra

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    Excellent Tutorial, one thing though regarding your glueing.

    That knuckle joint is there as a convienent blow off point for the pipe to stop it from blowing off elsewhere (in a harder place to find).

    All excellent but i would maybe leave off the glue.

    Just my 2p's worth but nice guide, maybe it should be put in the FAQ's part :)
     
  3. nc30rider

    nc30rider Full Member

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    The reason i put the (small amount of) superglue on was because the pipes did not seem very tight when I joined them. In fact I would say they were slack. It did not take much to pull them apart again. They are made from quite hard plastic not rubber as most cars. Washer jet pipes normally take a bit of tugging to get them apart, these did not.
    I think It would probably have come apart again regardless of the weather.

    Taken onboard though and I've edited the post to reflect what you have said

    Maybe a piece of rubber tubing over the joint maybe a solution?
     
    #3 nc30rider, Feb 24, 2010
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2010
  4. john atkinson

    john atkinson Full Member

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    Brilliantly descriptive guide.
    Mine hasn't failed yet but I shall archive this thread for if and when it does.
    Thank you.
     
  5. DanGB

    DanGB Who need's a Diesel....

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    Never had this problem on mine, but thanks for the effort :) Might come in handy one day!
     
  6. Tam

    Tam Santa in disguise :)

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    mine had broke - so let the garage fix it on service - but this may come in handy in the future!

    Thanks.
     
  7. GazzFR

    GazzFR Guest

    Just repaired mine following this guide...thanks very much
     
  8. Knight_Rider

    Knight_Rider brum brum

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    Great guide, mine has done this too, what do we think the cause is? Using the rear washer when the nozzle outside on the wiper is frozen? forcing this knuckle joint to pop loose?
     
  9. nc30rider

    nc30rider Full Member

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    In my case I would say the plastic pipe is too hard and the rear jet pump is possibly a little too powerful
     
  10. John Sweet

    John Sweet Guest

    Re: Guide: How to fix the common leaking rear washer pipe in the Boot/Passenger footw

    Thanks for the very clear and useful guide. I too have '56 TDi FR and have experienced exactly the same problem.

    As much as I love the car, there are two gripes that I have and wonder if anyone else out there has any advice?

    The single reversing light is next to useless. Near the middle of the boot too which makes it even more useless. (Even my daughters 1.2 Corsa has two!) I thought I'd try to put in a second one on the other side, only to find that it is occupied by a (SINGLE) rear fog light. Again, all of my previous cars have had two of the as well! Can you put in a more powerful bulb? (Or will this overload the fuse?).

    The other gripe is that I want the engine REVOed, but I understand that it can be a night-mare due to the DPF. I also understand that the REVO can be installed with a switch, but can it be switched on imediately when required? If not, then there seems to be little point in having it done.

    I would welcome any views or advice.

    Regards

    John
     
  11. cdpdesign

    cdpdesign Full Member

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    John,

    the revo maps do come with a switch. What you do is when you want to change the map (or apply the immobilizer) you plug the switch into the OBD port on your car (on mine it's behind the panel just below the lights switch if my memory serves me correct) switch the ignition on and wait anything from 5 to 30 seconds. you then get a rising bleep and that's it, done.
    I found it very useful when my car was going into the dealer for a service/warranty work as it made the car appear 'standard'

    Occasionally, if the dealer applies a software update to the ECU it can wipe the map. In this case, the agent that re-mapped your ECU should re-do it for free as far as I am aware (well, my local revo dealer did.)

    Definitely worth the expense, you will be surprised with the difference!

    The only problem you get with the DPF is it limits the remap to around 205 to 210 BHP without setting it on fire I believe.
     
  12. daz_pd

    daz_pd Full Member

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    thanks for this guide, swmbo has had this prob for some time, its not half awkward to get that pipe clipped in, there is no room in there for my big paws!
     
  13. Who. Me?

    Who. Me? Full Member

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    Another thank you for this thread.

    For the benefit of future users, I'd also add that it helps to have two pairs of pliers, at least one of which should be long-nosed.

    The socket-end of the pipe is a pain to get hold of, so grip the socket end with long nosed pliers and push the plug end home firmly with another pair.

    It connects good and firm again after that, but I wrapped a couple of turns of electrical tape around the joint as well to resist it shaking loose.
     
  14. lardyboy

    lardyboy Full Member

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    Hi would this be the same on my altea as i have the same problem?
     
  15. Nath.

    Nath. The Gentlemans Express

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    Good guide :yes:

    With all the ice and snow mine had popped off too. Now that it's back together the jet is more powerful than I have ever seen it. It must have been leaking for some time.

    Well done nc30rider.
     
  16. coggie

    coggie Senior Member

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    Great Guide, Many Thanks.
     
  17. bluecoxy

    bluecoxy Guest

    Great guide. I just spoke to the garage and they said they would fix it for me at the cost of 25 queens pounds. Thats £25 saved. All I need now is a guide on how to replace the blower motor.
     
  18. Gar3th

    Gar3th Gareth

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    Fantastic guide, thanks for taking the time to write this up. Seems my Leon doesn't like the cold, I've already replaced my headlight washer fuse earlier this week.
     
  19. coggie

    coggie Senior Member

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    Do a search, loads on info on removing / replacing the blower motor.
     
  20. bluecoxy

    bluecoxy Guest

    Hi nc30rider

    I have got to the last stage as in your photo, but cannot find the female end to fix it. Where should it be? Did you have trouble locating it first time around? Where can I buy the little plastic plug that holds the carpet as I have accidently snapped it when taking it off.

    Cheers
     

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