Hatch lock broke with hatch door in closed state

[chipsrdown]

Ok so it could sound like I'm trying to break into a car so I'll ask for instructions for fixing this from inside the boot .. .'cos I can get in through the car doors and drop the back seats and into the boot space ...

How do I open the hatch ... the hatch door is in closed position and will not open. Will not unlock from remote nor from the actual key operation in the lock.

It sounds like I've got to - somehow - expose the mechanism and get the hatch unlocked, then open, then take the interior hatch panel off and fix it (what ever it is that is broken) ... your advice or experience please.


Thanks.

 

[rosscopecotrain]

Had this problem the other week. Two screws on the boot liner take them out and pull of the liner carefully. You'll see the solenoid which has probably ceased so give it a tap on the bottom of it and it should release. Wang a bit of wd40 on it to. Sorry about the quick guide but I'm at work. If you look there is a detailed guide on here but at least this will give u a rough idea

 

[rosscopecotrain]

Heres the full guide i was on about .....
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=114846

 

[chipsrdown]

Thanks very much for the pointer to the guide - really useful ! I'll fix it myself now and spend the money on trying to sort out whether I've got a duff, new MAF sensor.

 

[rosscopecotrain]

I'm sure you know this already but unplug the maf and take it for a short drive. If it drives better than normal chances are you need a new one. If its new double check with a stealer that its the correct part number and make sure its only bosch not some cheap rubbish .

Good luck....

 

[chipsrdown]

Hatch Door unlocked
Thanks for the pointer to the guide on how to dismantle - dismantled !
The Actual mechanism was found to be intact ! all levers, rods in place and moving appropriately.

It's difficult to say what the actual problem was; I have observed tho' that the sprung loaded, plastic "gate" that is pushed down either side of the hatch door locking post, was broken and had fallen down inside the panel (towards the spare tyre in the tyre well). This left the "springs" poking up into the plastic panel on the hatch door itself. They didn't look strong enough to hold the door in a closed place - but it is difficult to see how that "gate" breaking was preventing the hatch handle operating the level that pulled the grey rod !

Anyway, i've left the hatch panel off now to se ehow it behaves over the next week !.

Now to the MAF sensor.
How long is a "short" journey ... I have disconnected it and it does behave better. The "garage" is not convinced that merely a disconnection is a adequate diagnostic that the MAF sensor is at fault - they don't want to stump up for a new one willy-nilly, and funnily enough neither do I ! (at £70 a pop). What's the definitive diagnostic here ?

Some other information, the garage are interested in, is that it appears to work ok when cold and when it reaches warm to hot operating temperature the performance drops. The "garage" are intersted in the possibility of there being an open circuit on the temp sender - making it appear to be -40 (or some such temp)... how would that affect it ? weaker fuel mixture and poorer performance ? Would that really feel like a reduction in boost !

Thanks.

 

[chipsrdown]

Maf sensor : It's an official part
Thanks.

 

[rosscopecotrain]

I'm no expert , I only go off what i've read on here but i think most people would agree that a car that runs better with the maf disconnected would indicate a faulty maf . It may be an official bosch part but it might not be the correct part number and i have read a few threads which say that even tho people have fitted new mafs they have turned out to be the wrong part number for the car , maybe just a digit or 2 out but in the end it made the car run like a dog !!

By a short journey i mean a mile or 2 max .

I also have a 51 plate cupra . mine is very much the same , goes like stink when cold but performance decreases when warm . I couldnt figure out what was wrong and have just come to accept it now.

Sorry i cant be anymore help hopefully someone else will read this thread and be able to contribute a bit more

 

[chipsrdown]

Hey, I really appreciate your replies ! thanks.
I found that someone had listed all the official part numbers, on the forum, somewhere. The part I'd got was the part number listed.