Heater Blower Resistor

Reese Hodgers

Active Member
Jul 1, 2019
26
6
So last week my fan stopped blowing air on setting 1,2 and 3 but blew at max 4.
After some research turns out it was the resistor pack. If any of you have the same issues here is a few pictures of what's behind the passenger side dash/glovebox, maybe it will help!
Start by removing all the screws holding in the glove box from the front roughly about 8, then there are 2 on the side panel. Next remove 4 silver bolts holding on the blower motor and it will just pop down for you with a bit of wiggling, then you look in through the vent and you'll see the resistor poking down. From the top twist it anti clockwise about 20 degrees and pull up and out. Job done!
Remember to unplug everything eg..glove box light, airbag connector and power supply to blower, they can be easily seen once glove box is out. Reason for removing the blower motor is to give it a clean with a cloth as mine was a bit gunked up
 

Attachments

  • 20191106_132640.jpg
    20191106_132640.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 2,190
  • 20191106_132651.jpg
    20191106_132651.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 551
  • 20191106_132737.jpg
    20191106_132737.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 463

V_R

Nov 21, 2019
3
0
UK
Hi! New here. Sorry for jumping on your thread but it just so happens this is (I think) the same issue I'm having and the reason I joined the forum. Well its my other half's car, but I'm been tasked with fixing it!

So I'm having a similar issue but my heater doesn't work on only setting 1.

2, 3 and 4 are fine.

Would that be the resistor too in this case?

Thanks.

Sorry I should say, its a 2013 1.2 Toca. The 85BHP version.
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,822
1,001
South Scotland
I've never had this problem, but I think that it would normally start with "1" stopping working for a few reasons including, very little air moving across the resistor pack at the slowest fan speed and more voltage and so heat being generated or dumped via the slowest speed resistor, many people will leave the fan running at speed "1" instead of switching it off when it was not really needed to heat/cool the cabin area.
 

Reese Hodgers

Active Member
Jul 1, 2019
26
6
Hi! New here. Sorry for jumping on your thread but it just so happens this is (I think) the same issue I'm having and the reason I joined the forum. Well its my other half's car, but I'm been tasked with fixing it!

So I'm having a similar issue but my heater doesn't work on only setting 1.

2, 3 and 4 are fine.

Would that be the resistor too in this case?

Thanks.

Sorry I should say, its a 2013 1.2 Toca. The 85BHP version.

I'd say its unlikely it's the resistor I'd say, sounds more like the switch itself, try popping out the fascia and getting in behind the switchs see if anything looks astray?
 

V_R

Nov 21, 2019
3
0
UK
Cheers for the replies, I'll have to do some investigating. All I know so far is that if you turn it to 1 it behaves just as if you had turned it to 0, air con light goes out etc.

@RUM4MO sorry, are you saying you think it is the resistor?
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,822
1,001
South Scotland
Cheers for the replies, I'll have to do some investigating. All I know so far is that if you turn it to 1 it behaves just as if you had turned it to 0, air con light goes out etc.

@RUM4MO sorry, are you saying you think it is the resistor?

I was working from common sense or logic, I believe that many people ignore the fact that "1" does not or has stopped working and just use the other positions, remember that what is done here to control the fan speed is, by using a network of resistors, either 2 or 3, they are brought into circuit on positions "1" "2" and "3" to reduce the supply voltage to that fan to, lets say, 1 = 3Volts, 2 = 6Volts and 3 = 9Volts and when switched to position 3 the full battery voltage of 12Volts is applied directly across the fan motor windings. So when in position "1" 8Volts are being dropped across part or all of the resistor network and air flow, which is needed to cool down the resistor network, is at its lowest.

If you are going to replace the resistor network, also check and replace the pollen filter in case it is partially clogged up and adding to the overheating of this resistor network - if indeed it is the resistor network that has failed.

Giving out accurate diagnostic advice at a distance is never going to be 100% accurate, I was just going on the usual trend when this failure occurs having never had that failure on a VW Group car - I've only ever had one VW Group car, a late 2009 Ibiza that had manual AC - the ones with auto HVAC control the fan speed in a more robust manner.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Reese Hodgers

Reese Hodgers

Active Member
Jul 1, 2019
26
6
I was working from common sense or logic, I believe that many people ignore the fact that "1" does not or has stopped working and just use the other positions, remember that what is done here to control the fan speed is, by using a network of resistors, either 2 or 3, they are brought into circuit on positions "1" "2" and "3" to reduce the supply voltage to that fan to, lets say, 1 = 3Volts, 2 = 6Volts and 3 = 9Volts and when switched to position 3 the full battery voltage of 12Volts is applied directly across the fan motor windings. So when in position "1" 8Volts are being dropped across part or all of the resistor network and air flow, which is needed to cool down the resistor network, is at its lowest.

If you are going to replace the resistor network, also check and replace the pollen filter in case it is partially clogged up and adding to the overheating of this resistor network - if indeed it is the resistor network that has failed.

Giving out accurate diagnostic advice at a distance is never going to be 100% accurate, I was just going on the usual trend when this failure occurs having never had that failure on a VW Group car - I've only ever had one VW Group car, a late 2009 Ibiza that had manual AC - the ones with auto HVAC control the fan speed in a more robust manner.
I agree with everything you said, without bern there to personally diagnose the issue it's hard, on the plus side to rule out resistor issues the resistor only costs 20euro
Cheers for the replies, I'll have to do some investigating. All I know so far is that if you turn it to 1 it behaves just as if you had turned it to 0, air con light goes out etc.

@RUM4MO sorry, are you saying you think it is the resistor?
@RUM4MO agree with what you said, hard to 100% diagnose the issues without been there just have to go on know how and experience + research.
On the plus side to rule out the resistor they are cheap enough 20-25 £. And handy enough to replace!
 

SEAT Rule

Active Member
Nov 19, 2019
188
62
Hello there,

I had this issue with my MK5 Ibiza back in August of this year 2019
I only had speed 4 working on the fan so decided to remove the glovebox and investigate for myself, found the fan motor and tested for power, confirmed only works on speed 4, so found and removed the fan speed resistor which had the green insolation cracking and peeling away, also smelt burnt.
Anyway ordered a new resistor and refitted everything and the interior fan is working again on all 4 speeds.

I purchased mine from the Main Dealership for roughly £45 as I wanted the OEM part.

Part number 6Q0 959 263A

Hope this helps
Si
 

V_R

Nov 21, 2019
3
0
UK
Hi! New here. Sorry for jumping on your thread but it just so happens this is (I think) the same issue I'm having and the reason I joined the forum. Well its my other half's car, but I'm been tasked with fixing it!

So, the heater only works on only setting 1. 2, 3 and 4 are fine.

Would that be the resistor too in this case?



Hello again! So I finally got round to this. I purchased a new resistor and fitted it this weekend. Problem solved!

Cheers for the replies folks.
 
Adrian Flux insurance services - discount for forum members.