Help! Boot not opening

[timothy_J_O]

I really need some help as I am now very confused
I have a Seat Ibiza 1.4 Chil (11 plate) and the boot will not open, it is locked shut.
After reading the manual I climbed in the back of the car and opened the boot using the release slot (very handy). I’ve removed the boot trim to expose the back of boot switch (handle) and the latch.
I tested the switch (handle), It is very simple, there are only two wires going into the switch, live power and return power. There is power going into it, when someone lifts the handle there is power coming out of it, so this good.
The latch seems to have 4 wires going into and I do not know what these do to test (so I ingored them). I thought as the switch is good its unlikely to be a faulty wire it must latch that has gone. I ordered a new latch (same model number). It arrived today and I swapped it over (after buying some Spline tools!) but the boot still does not open!
Has anyone else come across this issue?
Does anyone know if the boot lock is controlled or protected by a fuse?
Any help is most appreciated, As I have boot trim off I’ll post some pictures tomorrow when its better weather.

Thank You!
Tim

 

[SwinDan]

Does the solenoid click when you hit the unlock button if so the mechanism just might need a spot of lubricant common fault

 

[timothy_J_O]

Hi all,
Found the issue, it problem was VERY simple when I finally found it!
It looks like I replaced the boot latch when I didn't need it

When you remove the boot trim panel, on the far left there are two connector blocks on the wiring loom. I believe with the boot opening and closing the connection had just worked lose. I undid the connector blocks and reconnected them and the boot now works!

Really wish I had done this before I replaced the boot catch!

(just so people know as well, the boot latch is totally different from a mk4 and mk5).



Tim

 

[goelectric]

Hi all,
Found the issue, it problem was VERY simple when I finally found it!
It looks like I replaced the boot latch when I didn't need it

When you remove the boot trim panel, on the far left there are two connector blocks on the wiring loom. I believe with the boot opening and closing the connection had just worked lose. I undid the connector blocks and reconnected them and the boot now works!

Really wish I had done this before I replaced the boot catch!

(just so people know as well, the boot latch is totally different from a mk4 and mk5).



Tim

This is a top tip. Having checked the boot handle switch was working with a digital voltmeter ( it was) I was about to go and buy a new solenoid mechanism. Saw Tim's post - tried it, didn't fix the problem but then I tried dis-connecting and then re-connecting the connector to the locking/solenoid mechanism itself (connector with 4 wires) and bingo it now works BTW you need to insert a small screwdriver into the top rectangular hole of the connector and gently lift up while pulling on the connector to release it.

 

[everson38]

Hi all,
Found the issue, it problem was VERY simple when I finally found it!
It looks like I replaced the boot latch when I didn't need it

When you remove the boot trim panel, on the far left there are two connector blocks on the wiring loom. I believe with the boot opening and closing the connection had just worked lose. I undid the connector blocks and reconnected them and the boot now works!

Really wish I had done this before I replaced the boot catch!

(just so people know as well, the boot latch is totally different from a mk4 and mk5).



Tim

Hey tim i would love it if you could put a picture of what you mean by the two connector blocks?

thanks if you do

 

[everson38]

hey guys ive got a problem, but also providing some help. would appreciate i you could take a read and look:

Hey guys i am newbie to this, just joined today. But thought would be good if i posted an image of the fuse box ALSO WITH LABELLED TAGS TO SHOW YOU WHERE EACH FUSE IS STATED BY OWNERS MANUAL. As we all know where to find it be seat dont seem to put an illustration on the cover to tell you which slot is which??? see image 1




Now i have a problem with my fuse box. I bought my car brand new back in 2009 so i am only owner. But my boot is not working. you press the button on key fob and nothing, try opening it via seat logo switch and nothing. I looked in my fuse box and based on the owners manual, i appear to have two fuses the wrong spec. (See pic 2) . Slot 45 is supposedly for rear window heater and should be a yellow 20 ampbut there appears to be a green 30 amp?

slot 48 is for Locking Unit and should be a blue 15amp fuse but a white 25amp is in its place? Now could this be related as the colour of fuses are there for a reason and if i am right with fuses slot layout then these are incorrect? but would this be cause my boot to fail from working?

Sorry for long post, but hope it helps someone and hopefully someone can help me back.

If the pictures are not showing you can go to my flickr and see them both at https://www.flickr.com/photos/82985166@N03/with/34289038550/ i only have two pictures on there

 

[BrianX]

Hi all,
Found the issue, it problem was VERY simple when I finally found it!
It looks like I replaced the boot latch when I didn't need it

When you remove the boot trim panel, on the far left there are two connector blocks on the wiring loom. I believe with the boot opening and closing the connection had just worked lose. I undid the connector blocks and reconnected them and the boot now works!

Really wish I had done this before I replaced the boot catch!

(just so people know as well, the boot latch is totally different from a mk4 and mk5).



Tim

Thanks for this tip, same problem with mine fixed in 15 minutes.
Cheers

 

[Nick91]

Just signed up to say thanks, this works a treat. The clips are a pain but persevere with it.

 

[Tony Jones]

I also just signed up, the clips are unreal. But fingers crossed it works.

 

[Rob66]

We still have problems with our 2010 Ibiza boot so will check the connectors later, thanks for the tip

 

[everson38]

to all, in the end the car when back to seat. They rectified the problem. They said it was a broken wire. It appears the broken wire was inside the black connector block in the boot (as I said the one i did not know how to open). The technician said he has hard wired it now, so completely missed out the connector and crimp connected both ends. This has solved the problem for now. See pictures of before and after (repair).

Alittle annoying that I just needed to get into that black connector and I would of seen a broken wire, but even now I don't no how it is clipped together, but you live and learn and hopefully someone can show me how to open it lol.

Sent from my moto g(8) plus using Tapatalk

 

[Crossy666]

This fixed my seat ibiza 2009 sport. Was about to buy a new boot locking system. Tried this first and it worked.

 

[everson38]

This fixed my seat ibiza 2009 sport. Was about to buy a new boot locking system. Tried this first and it worked.

Glad it helped mate, my little redemption from your saving as it still annoys me I couldn't figure it out lol. Abit of nerves holding me back, but you live and learn. Glad it worked out.

Sent from my moto g(8) plus using Tapatalk

 

[Hooverman]

How much did it cost to go to seat to fix this issue

to all, in the end the car when back to seat. They rectified the problem. They said it was a broken wire. It appears the broken wire was inside the black connector block in the boot (as I said the one i did not know how to open). The technician said he has hard wired it now, so completely missed out the connector and crimp connected both ends. This has solved the problem for now. See pictures of before and after (repair).

Alittle annoying that I just needed to get into that black connector and I would of seen a broken wire, but even now I don't no how it is clipped together, but you live and learn and hopefully someone can show me how to open it lol.

Sent from my moto g(8) plus using Tapatalk

 

[robertbeans]

Hi all,
Found the issue, it problem was VERY simple when I finally found it!
It looks like I replaced the boot latch when I didn't need it

When you remove the boot trim panel, on the far left there are two connector blocks on the wiring loom. I believe with the boot opening and closing the connection had just worked lose. I undid the connector blocks and reconnected them and the boot now works!

Really wish I had done this before I replaced the boot catch!

(just so people know as well, the boot latch is totally different from a mk4 and mk5).



Tim

Thnakyou @timothy_J_O you've saved me a lot of money , I tired the latch and boot catch . luckily I can return them .
I found your post and bingo its working again

 

[Chris Bartram]

Just a quick note to say I've just had this exact issue with the same fix: the green wire wasn't broken, but I think the connection was oxidised just enough to make the connection intermittent, which explains why some people have success by pulling the connector apart and re-seating it.

A word from the wise: this green wire carries 5v whenever the ignition is on, I guess this is so the ECU can detect open circuit. This might well contribute to the oxidation if it gets damp, due to galvanic action. Operating the handle pushes this up to 12v to trigger the release.

Confusingly, a multimeter still showed 12v (or near 12v- as it is only a pulse, it's hard to tell with a digital meter) when operated, 5v when not, but this is because a meter is high impedance: under load, there's clearly not enough to operate the latch.

Anyway, pulling the connectors from the block, and a bit of solder and heatshrink (tricky on a windy day!) and it's all working. Now to return the latch release I bought from Amazon.

PS: yes, I'm aware of the arguments of solder vs crimps, and trust me, if I'd had some good quality heat-seal crimps and the tools to fit them properly, I'd have done that rather than muck about with a 15w soldering iron in the wind. I've made sure the connection is mechanically protected.

 

[RUM4MO]

Good stuff!

I keep thinking about buying one of these "tongs" that hold wires while you solder them, but only ever think about that when faced with needing to solder in tricky positions! I used to have some maybe "atom" heatshrink - the stuff with heat activated sealant inside it, that was very good at sealing up joins.

 

[Rob66]

Just a quick note to say I've just had this exact issue with the same fix: the green wire wasn't broken, but I think the connection was oxidised just enough to make the connection intermittent, which explains why some people have success by pulling the connector apart and re-seating it.

A word from the wise: this green wire carries 5v whenever the ignition is on, I guess this is so the ECU can detect open circuit. This might well contribute to the oxidation if it gets damp, due to galvanic action. Operating the handle pushes this up to 12v to trigger the release.

Confusingly, a multimeter still showed 12v (or near 12v- as it is only a pulse, it's hard to tell with a digital meter) when operated, 5v when not, but this is because a meter is high impedance: under load, there's clearly not enough to operate the latch.

Anyway, pulling the connectors from the block, and a bit of solder and heatshrink (tricky on a windy day!) and it's all working. Now to return the latch release I bought from Amazon.

View attachment 38032

PS: yes, I'm aware of the arguments of solder vs crimps, and trust me, if I'd had some good quality heat-seal crimps and the tools to fit them properly, I'd have done that rather than muck about with a 15w soldering iron in the wind. I've made sure the connection is mechanically protected.

Thanks Chris, of ours plays up again I'll check that wire.

 

[Chris Bartram]

Good stuff!

I keep thinking about buying one of these "tongs" that hold wires while you solder them, but only ever think about that when faced with needing to solder in tricky positions! I used to have some maybe "atom" heatshrink - the stuff with heat activated sealant inside it, that was very good at sealing up joins.

It was tricky, on a few counts. The small iron I had wasn't powerful enough, I had to tape a cardboard windshield to the tailgate! Access was a bit fiddly, too. I ended up taping one wire to the connector to hold it still. I really should get a bigger iron to use outdoors.