Help needed badly with stereo install

[JamesIbiza]

Hi
I'm having a few issues installing an aftermarket head unit into my car, and I would be hugely grateful if anyone can help me make sense of this. I'm a complete beginner, although I've been doing my best to research and learn all I can.
I have a 2006 seat ibiza fr 1.9tdi, type 6L.
I purchased a connects2 steering wheel interface (CTSST002.2) which I understand should work with my car, along with the pioneer MVH-X580BT stereo. My plan was to also install amp, sub and possibly new speakers after this.

So I connected the adaptor and head unit to my car, but it didn't work, the head unit wouldn't power on.

My next step after some research was to buy a multimeter. I tested the connections, and the yellow wire was receiving 12v, but the red wire was at 0v (ignition on or off). On the wiring diagrams I found online for my car, the location of the 12v ignition switch should be where the red wire is located on the connects2 adapter, but in my car it is not.

I removed the red pin from the adaptor harness and connected it to the yellow's connection (to test if the stereo would power on). The stereo did power on, and the steering wheel controls worked perfectly.

So now I know there is some issue with the 12v ignition switch/red wire, I'm just not sure what to do about it? I have tried testing the factory harness for a 12v ignition switch, but the only one i can find is 10v ignition on 0v ignition off, and on the wiring diagram online it is marked *Aut antenna in this pin. I should say my factory head unit functions without issue.

My second issue is that when playing music through the aftermarket head unit, the music quality actually sounds much poorer than through the factory head unit, a much less fuller sound. With the aftermarket stereo connected, my front right speaker sounds like it has completely blown, very muffled and distorted, however when I reconnect the oem stereo it sounds fine. this has me completely baffled. Can this be explained?

I'm not sure if I should proceed with trying to install the aftermarket head unit and replace the door speakers(due to the possibly blown front right, and poor sound quality in general), or just give up and count my losses with the new stereo.

If anyone has an opinion or could offer some advice/insight I would be tremendously thankful. I understand it is a lot to read through and I have two different issues installation/ sound quality.

But in any case thanks a lot

 

[lluna_polanco]

Hi, welcome to the forum.

My car don't have the steering wheel button so I would not be able to help you with that. However on the electrical side, I do not know if you've seen this thread https://forums.seatcupra.net/index.php?threads/the-mk4-audio-thread.256932, that being said, when I installed my aftermarket head unit I search each cable with that thread and separated, as I didn't have the wheel controls i didnt have to worry about them.

In my case, even if i had the steering controls I would probably just not use them and the remote that came with the stereo.

In regards of the quality of sound, did try using the EQ in the HU (head unit)?
Also how were you playing the music? In my JVC unit for some reason USB sounds worst than BT.

 

[JamesIbiza]

Hi, welcome to the forum.

My car don't have the steering wheel button so I would not be able to help you with that. However on the electrical side, I do not know if you've seen this thread https://forums.seatcupra.net/index.php?threads/the-mk4-audio-thread.256932, that being said, when I installed my aftermarket head unit I search each cable with that thread and separated, as I didn't have the wheel controls i didnt have to worry about them.

In my case, even if i had the steering controls I would probably just not use them and the remote that came with the stereo.

In regards of the quality of sound, did try using the EQ in the HU (head unit)?
Also how were you playing the music? In my JVC unit for some reason USB sounds worst than BT.

Hi,

Thank you very much for your response! And also for the link. It's very nice of you.

My problem is that is the *Switched Live (Red) mentioned in that thread, either doesn't work in my car or isn't present for some reason. The pin that should be the Switched Live (Red) reads 0 on the multimeter (although the stock stereo works fine). Also I have the connector CTSST002.2 mentioned in that thread but it won't work due to the same problem. I'm not sure what the reason or solution is for the lack of current on the*Switched Live (Red) pin.

I had a quick play with the EQ, but no I haven't fully tested it because the stereo wasn't really properly connected, i just had the switched red wire connected to the constant yellows pin. But there was very clear distortion from the front right speaker, which isn't noticeable with the stock stereo. I used the aux input for playing the music. I'm not sure if I should get new speakers or just keep using the stock headset now.

Thanks again

 

[lluna_polanco]

So, as your having issues with the power coming from the ignition or switch on, you can tap into the cigarette lighter electric current (make sure that it only works when the switch is on, I don't remember if it does or not) and use that as a power source, this is only taken by the head unit as a remote signal to turn on all the extra juice is pulled for the batter cable.

If you use it IE: smoking, I would swap the cigarette lighter fuse for a larger one no more than 5 extra amps, if you dont use it and the amp in the back of the head unit is the same as the one in the cigarette lighter fuse, you can leave it as it is, if not then just use one for the same amperage as your head unit.

 

[JamesIbiza]

So, as your having issues with the power coming from the ignition or switch on, you can tap into the cigarette lighter electric current (make sure that it only works when the switch is on, I don't remember if it does or not) and use that as a power source, this is only taken by the head unit as a remote signal to turn on all the extra juice is pulled for the batter cable.

If you use it IE: smoking, I would swap the cigarette lighter fuse for a larger one no more than 5 extra amps, if you dont use it and the amp in the back of the head unit is the same as the one in the cigarette lighter fuse, you can leave it as it is, if not then just use one for the same amperage as your head unit.

Ok great I can certainly try that, can I ask what sort of wire you would recommend using to reach down to the cigarette lighter? And i would crimp the connections together I imagine? Thanks for your help!

 

[lluna_polanco]

I would use gauge 16 wire. I haven't looked into the cigarette lighter in the Ibiza, but I believe you might need to strip it and tap into it and probably solder and use some electric tape and solder.

Take a look at the video which will give you an idea on how to tap in it in case you cant crimp them toguether.

 

[JamesIbiza]

I would use gauge 16 wire. I haven't looked into the cigarette lighter in the Ibiza, but I believe you might need to strip it and tap into it and probably solder and use some electric tape and solder.

Take a look at the video which will give you an idea on how to tap in it in case you cant crimp them toguether.

I will try that, thank you very much you have been a great help!

 

[lluna_polanco]

No problem, if you need help installing the amp let me know

 

[Defconluke]

I recently installed that very stereo in my car without issue.

Without the CTSST002.2 you will need to switch the red and yellow wires that have the bullet connectors in the stereo harness.
However, the Connects2 unit is wired to swap the live and constant feed by default so you don't need to do anything to the wiring.

You just need to make sure the mini ISO plugs are well seated in to the Connects2 wiring and then connect that in to the wiring that comes with the stereo.

To get the steering wheel controls to work you plug the patch lead that comes with the Connects2 box in to the Connects2 box and the small jack in to the back of the radio. My Connects2 box came with the 'CTMULTILEAD.2' cable for steering wheel controls and you don't need to change it to get the controls working without issue.

You'll need an ISO to Din aerial adapter to use the factory aerial for FM and a digital aerial to use the DAB functionality.

To hide all the wiring, I took the top liner out of the glove box and hid as much of the wiring as possible in to the cavity behind that.

 

[lluna_polanco]

I recently installed that very stereo in my car without issue.

Without the CTSST002.2 you will need to switch the red and yellow wires that have the bullet connectors in the stereo harness.
However, the Connects2 unit is wired to swap the live and constant feed by default so you don't need to do anything to the wiring.

You just need to make sure the mini ISO plugs are well seated in to the Connects2 wiring and then connect that in to the wiring that comes with the stereo.

To get the steering wheel controls to work you plug the patch lead that comes with the Connects2 box in to the Connects2 box and the small jack in to the back of the radio. My Connects2 box came with the 'CTMULTILEAD.2' cable for steering wheel controls and you don't need to change it to get the controls working without issue.

You'll need an ISO to Din aerial adapter to use the factory aerial for FM and a digital aerial to use the DAB functionality.

To hide all the wiring, I took the top liner out of the glove box and hid as much of the wiring as possible in to the cavity behind that.

That sounds like the way it should be done

 

[JamesIbiza]

I recently installed that very stereo in my car without issue.

Without the CTSST002.2 you will need to switch the red and yellow wires that have the bullet connectors in the stereo harness.
However, the Connects2 unit is wired to swap the live and constant feed by default so you don't need to do anything to the wiring.

You just need to make sure the mini ISO plugs are well seated in to the Connects2 wiring and then connect that in to the wiring that comes with the stereo.

To get the steering wheel controls to work you plug the patch lead that comes with the Connects2 box in to the Connects2 box and the small jack in to the back of the radio. My Connects2 box came with the 'CTMULTILEAD.2' cable for steering wheel controls and you don't need to change it to get the controls working without issue.

You'll need an ISO to Din aerial adapter to use the factory aerial for FM and a digital aerial to use the DAB functionality.

To hide all the wiring, I took the top liner out of the glove box and hid as much of the wiring as possible in to the cavity behind that.

Hi, thanks very much for your reply! (I'm sorry I just noticed it)

Actually one of the first things I tried was switching the yellow and red bullet connectors on the stereo harness, and I've also tried reconnecting the iso plugs multiple times (with and without the CTSST002.2) without it working.

The strange thing is I purchased a multimeter to test the factory harness, and there is no current passing through the pin where the red wire on the CTSST002.2 lines up with. I couldn't find a 12v igntion switch pin anywhere on the factory harness, but despite this the factory stereo works fine, I really don't understand this!!

I'm not sure if it's possible that because I have a french car the wiring could be different somehow, or if a previous owner has tampered with it in some way (although there is no sign of this). But the wiring just doesn't seem to correspond as it should, but again the factory head unit works, very strange.

I could only get it all working when I remove the red wire from the CTSST002.2 harness, and connected it to the same pin as the yellow (just to test that there was no issue with the new head unit or adaptor).

And thanks for the tip about the aerial adaptor/booster, I purchased one along with the connects2 adaptor, although with the strange wiring in my car I'm not even sure if the system remote control lead coming from the aftermarket harness is even going to be putting out a current to attach and power it from.

Thanks again!

 

[JamesIbiza]

I've just realised that if I turn off my ignition and remove the key, my factory head unit still continues to function. Does anyone know if this is normal? Thanks

 

[lluna_polanco]

Mine function until i open the door, and is an aftermarket one

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

[JamesIbiza]

Mine function until i open the door, and is an aftermarket one

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Ok thank you, my factory stereo just keeps playing until I press its off button, doors opened or closed, I think it would just keeping going until it drained the battery.

 

[lluna_polanco]

Ok thank you, my factory stereo just keeps playing until I press its off button, doors opened or closed, I think it would just keeping going until it drained the battery.

Most likely, mine continues until i open a door

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

[JamesIbiza]

Most likely, mine continues until i open a door

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

I guess this is why the factory stereo still works without a 12v ignition switch on my harness. I'm going to try your idea of tapping into the cigarette lighters 12v switch wire, I'm just waiting for the 16 gauge wire to be delivered. Hopefully that will work, I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks!

 

[lluna_polanco]

I guess this is why the factory stereo still works without a 12v ignition switch on my harness. I'm going to try your idea of tapping into the cigarette lighters 12v switch wire, I'm just waiting for the 16 gauge wire to be delivered. Hopefully that will work, I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks!

Most likely its jumped to the contact current and its the reason why it doesn't work.

I'll take pictures later on the way I cabled my amp and share them.

 

[FR_MATT]

I think someone must have messed with your wiring, as I have that exact same head unit and connects2 adapter and it just worked without need for swapping wires. My standard head unit and this one both turn off with ignition though

Edit: to say the connections seemed quite stiff to get properly connected and that the sound quality is way better than standard

 

[JamesIbiza]

I think someone must have messed with your wiring, as I have that exact same head unit and connects2 adapter and it just worked without need for swapping wires. My standard head unit and this one both turn off with ignition though

Edit: to say the connections seemed quite stiff to get properly connected and that the sound quality is way better than standard

Hey, thanks for your reply!

Yeah I guess someone must have, although there is no sign of that anywhere. Either that or it's because my car is french.

I tapped into the cigarette lighters ignition live wire and connected it to the red wire on the connects2 harness. When I turned the key to accessories the radio was working and it seemed to have worked, but when I tried to start the car everything went dead. When I turned the key off and on again, the needles jumped about 9 times quickly and there was a clicking sound. I thought the battery might have died as I haven't used the car in a while. So I jumped it off my mum's car. It started and I took it for a run but the engine management light was on and it wouldn't start again when I turned it off. So I put everything back to how it was before, and now it's working fine again thankfully, I was worried I could have damaged the ECU or something, like the car sensed something wasn't right, or something with the immobilizer, not sure if anyone would know? I'm trying to get it sorted but I'm really not that electrically minded.

The only other thing I think I could think of was getting a piggy back fuse adapter and feeding a wire from the fuse box to the stereo. Although I'm worried I would just get the same results. And I don't want to risk causing any damage to the electrical system. If I try this it's just a live wire and it's grounded through the factory harness? Or is there something else I need to do? I really appreciate any ideas or suggestions. Many thanks!!