holts screenwash,methanol,Water injection

ryan_s3

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Mar 27, 2004
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Noticed when i was in the garage that holts screen wash says it contains methanol,do you think i could use this with my water injection as intake temps are so low at the moment (20 degrees max) or does it contain loads of dodgy additives?
 

Addo

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Yeah, i've read somewhere that you can pay pre-made stuff to put into your screenwash just for this scinario. i'll be fitting my aquamist up next month so i'd be very inrested once you've found out. Although with my battery in the boot i do have alot of space to mount a semi large tank (6 litre) in the front.
 

ryan_s3

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Mar 27, 2004
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Found out it only contains 10% methanol and 15% ethanol,so it's no good.I'm going to get some 98+% methanol from a model shop i know.
 

Fez boy

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Apr 23, 2003
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The screen wash stuff is not that good(blocks the filter in no time)

As above use the Methanol from a model shop ;)

On my Fiat Coupe I was using a 50/50 mix and the Methanol was £6 a gallon :D

Only problem is that sometimes makes the windscreen a little streaky :doh:
 

john banks

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Feb 16, 2002
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I used Holts screenwash, but it worked better with 100% methanol, and even better putting 10% methanol in the fuel tank. Maybe I needed a bigger Aquamist jet (just used the largest that came with the 1s kit) to get enough methanol in as I was working four 740cc injectors hard at raised fuel pressure at the time. Methanol still helps with cold intake temperatures to increase power and torque.
 

Songman

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Aug 10, 2003
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I buy Methanol from a local chemical supplier in 25lt drums - using water/methanol - 80/ 20 - over the winter without any apparent problems to washer pump seals and lines/paintwork etc
Using 6mm jet and 10psi pump trigger - insert between intercooler and throttlebody - works very well
Aquamist manual states that no ethanol can be used - supposed to damage Aquamist pump

The 5.5ltr washer bottle from the Toledo with headlamp washers fitted my LCR and gives added safety margin when having fun - forget, and run the bottle empty and you knacker the pump:)
 

Fl@pper

Back older greyer and less oilier but always hope
Jun 19, 2001
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if you want it pre mixed use the pink Renault Screenwash

you only have to smell it to know its a good un

R5 boys swear by it - used to buy it by the gallon
 

ryan_s3

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Mar 27, 2004
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40% methanol/water in the water injection and octane booster has stop my timing retard by 1.5 degrees and it feels alot smoother.
Hi john,
was talking to a well know scooby tuner today about a upgrade and he reckons the td06 20g would be the right one for me/my goals.
He himself was running a t78!!
 

john banks

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Feb 16, 2002
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I think the TD06 20G is too big for a 1.8 litre road car engine. IMHO, you want the upper half of your RPM range to be fat even in a low gear. TD05H 20G on a 2.5 litre engine is nice for road use, I made mistakes by going bigger than this. The difference between them is the turbine wheel (there is an 06 and 06H by the way) but this has a massive impact on spool up, and of course power as well. You may find a TD05H 20G has compressor surge if you pull in the boost too hard as it does on the 2.0 Scooby engines with a big bore inlet if you try to run silly boost before 4000-4500 RPM, but not the 2.5, can run full boost before 3000 RPM.
 

ryan_s3

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Mar 27, 2004
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john banks said:
I think the TD06 20G is too big for a 1.8 litre road car engine. IMHO, you want the upper half of your RPM range to be fat even in a low gear. TD05H 20G on a 2.5 litre engine is nice for road use, I made mistakes by going bigger than this. The difference between them is the turbine wheel (there is an 06 and 06H by the way) but this has a massive impact on spool up, and of course power as well. You may find a TD05H 20G has compressor surge if you pull in the boost too hard as it does on the 2.0 Scooby engines with a big bore inlet if you try to run silly boost before 4000-4500 RPM, but not the 2.5, can run full boost before 3000 RPM.

Doesn't seem to many alternatives then john to a pe1820,i see 1.5bar by 3500rpm on a 4th gear pull on my vf34/p20.Do you think the td05 20g won't suit the application?
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
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john banks said:
I think the TD06 20G is too big for a 1.8 litre road car engine. IMHO, you want the upper half of your RPM range to be fat even in a low gear. TD05H 20G on a 2.5 litre engine is nice for road use, I made mistakes by going bigger than this. The difference between them is the turbine wheel (there is an 06 and 06H by the way) but this has a massive impact on spool up, and of course power as well. You may find a TD05H 20G has compressor surge if you pull in the boost too hard as it does on the 2.0 Scooby engines with a big bore inlet if you try to run silly boost before 4000-4500 RPM, but not the 2.5, can run full boost before 3000 RPM.

If I get a mo... (seemingly rare these days) I'll post up my Pe1820 on 1900cc result.

It is flat power from 5000-8000rpm @ 395bhp-410bhp

Previous Plot:
before-after-PE.jpg


note the bumpy spikes on the plot are due to tacho pickup issues on the dyno. When referenced off rollers, the level is at the top and smooth of the spikes.
 
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john banks

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Feb 16, 2002
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Nice plot Bill. You could so easily ruin that by going to a bigger turbo IMHO. Can you datalog to produce a histogram of how much time you spend at various RPM intervals on your chosen circuit then match that to the dyno plot?

Ryan, if the TD05H-20G doesn't surge then it would be ace. It is impossible to predict if it will until you try it, and it will even vary car to car, especially with different inlet tracts/other breathing mods. This problem is potentially shared by a lot of compressor heavy hybrids, but the potential power band is attractive which is why people make them.
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
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john banks said:
Nice plot Bill. You could so easily ruin that by going to a bigger turbo IMHO. Can you datalog to produce a histogram of how much time you spend at various RPM intervals on your chosen circuit then match that to the dyno plot?

There is no more power to be had from mine. It does what it does, max'd on peak levels as originally done. Realistically its working its tits off to break the 400bhp level. More a real 390bhp unit. (410 on a good day LOL)

I am hoping the delivery and spread of available power/torque is what will match the charateristics round Combe.
Got a test day on 18th to see, so may be able to strap in a laptop logging if it survives the bumps!
 

ryan_s3

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Mar 27, 2004
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Thanks for the info bill,at least the pe holds the power unlike a vf34/p20 which is what mike meant when he said it would be better to drive but i need the extra headwork to squeeze those few horses out..If we had a bit more capacity a td06 20g might be the way to go,clive has his 2.1 from tsr now might be a nice choice.
My only worry is the compressor housing of the td05 20g ,will it fit?
Maybe going with a shot of nos like mr caney is the way to go,also tripping the light fantastic at 1.9bar peak!
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
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glos.uk
1.9bar is likely short lifespan. IMHO {flame suit on}

mines doing 2.2bar currently... and no its not supposed to. :doh:

fecking cars!
 

Feel

Veedubya 'velle
Jun 12, 2003
4,918
2
Midlands
I know the aquamist site talks about 5-10% of tank volume as a suitable reservoir, but out of interest, how much methanol and water do you lot get through?

Where do you get it from and roughly how much?

And if Wilko's around - you once said you could run T9 with no pull with your aquamist on; do you still find the same or has your experience changed?

(just wondering how a 1s + running costs compares to a years' worth of millers :D )
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
31,333
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glos.uk
do both.. :)

mine in a 2.5ltr bottle... (too small) lasts 15mins on track. Not long at all.
One lap round the ring had be needing to refill again.
 

Wilko

Badge snob
Phil
I could run timing 9 on millers and aquamist with only a little timing pull. I actually got to timing 9 + 3.75 degrees with lemiwinks before a rod let go. No more than the odd 6 on block 20, and the car was the fastest it;s ever been.
I was running 12-15 deg btdc on a small port at 1.5 bar boost held to 7500.

I now get 20+ deg btdc on a small port at 1.35 bar on a big port (same flowas 1.5on a small port) with just water injection, no millers, and no methanol other than a few % for de icing. But the car is still slower than it was before the rod went. It is running <10:1 af though which is killing top end power.

I would say if you have an averagely efficient IC go WI long before you go huge IC.
 
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