Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Mk4 Ibiza FAQ's (6L) 2002-2008' started by AwesomeAl, Feb 27, 2009.
can this be done without lifting car on a ramp?
Yes, but you will make life easier if you can raise the front up a bit - making sure it is properly supported of course, like driven on to bits of wood or up on to a kerb.
Found one cable snapped :-(
Made a repair on both as per guide extended cables
All working ok
Have fixed this previously on my car and all OK. Tried to do the same on neighbour's car - soldered in wire to replace both wires through connector (one wire was broken). However, fault still exists (no battery light and not charging unless revved). Has anybody experienced breakages elsewhere on this load wire - maybe between here and the alternator, or the ECU (presuming that is other end)? Plug going into alternator itself looks OK and sound. Cheers
Remember the alternator, in this case, might have failed.
Thanks. I tested voltage with a multi-meter. When engine revved up and alternator has kicked in, it's generating 14.4V across the battery so I think alt. is working OK?
Can the alternator maintain that voltage when the headlights and rear window heater are on, I was just considering the possibility of the rectifier having "lost" a diode which have explained why it "gets there" at higher revs but is not when revs are low (pure speculation on my part)? So what is next - unplug lead from alternator and see if control volts are there, though you can't take much from checking that out of circuit, but it is something else to check I suppose. No chance that you accidentally swopped these two wire across when bypassing the plug<>socket - again I can't say what effect that would have as I've not studied where the other wire goes.
Edit:- I suppose to check for control voltage, it would be handy to know which pin is meant to be the high side - knowing that would answer my previous question without ripping things apart! (a job for Google?)
Second Edit!:- if the car is high mileage, the brush(s) or the contact faces that take this control voltage into the alternator might be crap = alternator U/S unless you replace the regulator assembly - easy off the car, but not so on the car.
Thanks for this post Al.
Although I got someone qualified to fix it, your post probably saved me some money as I was able to tell the mechanic / auto electrician what the probable cause was.
What are the voltages that this wires should have?
I just tested mine with engine on and I get 10V at one of them and 5V at the other... Is this normal?
Repaired mine the same way but now the battery light flashing