IMPORTANT ADVICE FOR ALL EXEO OWNERS! Make sure your battery isn't swimming!

Discussion in 'Exeo & Exeo ST' started by Tom B, Feb 8, 2018.

  1. Tom B

    Tom B Senior Member

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    Sorry for the capital letters in the title but this is something you all need to check regularly!

    There's lots of talk on Facebook about water ingress and electrical issues on Exeos. If left unattended, the water ingress can cause serious damage to your electrical system, potentially writing it off. The procedure to solve it is pretty simple but it does involve having tools, patience and a couple of hours spare.

    The problem is in the scuttle panel/front wiper mechanism/battery area. Open your bonnet and have a look around the battery. If this area is bone dry, you're lucky but you still need to follow the instructions below. If you see water or lots of silt sitting in there, you have a problem.

    There are 2 funnel shaped grommets in there that fill up with silt and eventually block up entirely. When they do, the rainwater has nowhere to go so just rises until it finds a place to escape. The ECU lives in that scuttle area on the offside (drivers side in UK) so you can only imagine what will happen if this water starts making contact with the wiring loom or gets past the seals on the ECU cover. The water then gets past the pollen filter seals and fills the nearside front footwell, and that's where the CCM lives. When that happens, the car turns psychotic!

    If you've ever owned a 1997-2005 VW Passat, a 1995-2001 Audi A4 or an A6 of similar vintage there's a chance that you'll already be familiar with this one. I bought a 2003 Passat and I had to fix all of the above, as well as a load of corroded wiring connectors. The dash was coming up with a different error every time I turned the key, the locks had a mind of their own, I was denied access to the tailgate and then it wouldn't start. Please don't put this off, have a look!

    To fix it, you need to remove all the trims and sealing strips around the scuttle area, move the annoying wiring loom above the battery, remove the battery (make sure you have the radio code before disconnecting!) and look for these grommets. Now here is where opinion divides. Some people say that VAG fit them for a reason and the bottom end is partially closed to stop water from the road getting in there. Other people say that if they were removed, water can exit a lot easier. I'm with the "other people" on this one, so if you agree, you can prise them up, out and into the bin. If you'd rather keep them in, get a thin & straight tool (screwdriver, 3/8 extension, round file) and push it all the way through to dislodge the blockage, pull it out and let the water drain out. Prise the grommets out, put them in a bowl of warm soapy water and only remove them from the bowl when they're totally clean. Clean out all the silt from the scuttle panel, (optional OCD step: apply some sort of waterproof grease to the electrical connector and around the ECU case, Maplin should be able to help with that) and put it all back together.

    If you do want to leave the grommets in, I'd recommend making a tool with a metal coathanger that allows you to clear the gunk from the grommet under the battery without having to remove it. Some right angle bends in various places should do the trick :)

    If my text version makes no sense, have a look at this Passat B5 guide: http://www.veedoubleu.com/passat/passat-leak/ it's not the same procedure but its very similar.

    Good luck!
     
  2. Dicko90

    Dicko90 Full Member

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    Good post! You can also clear the one under the battery with out removing it by reaching underneath the scuttle and feeling for the rubber gromet. Once located you can clear the water by poking your finger or screwdriver through the cone shaped bung which should instantly release the standing water I couldn't believe how much drained out when I first did it! I now check this every other week and so far it's never filled up once since clearing it.

    Nick
     
    #2 Dicko90, Feb 10, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2018
  3. caldi

    caldi Full Member

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    Great advice, but if you reach under the plenum chamber just to right of centre there is a large oval bung, this can be removed without taking the battery out. I removed the oval bung on my Exeo, it leaves a hole 80mm x 40mm, I still had a flood when we had torrential rain but it was only the passenger rear side that flooded. I had a test drive in a nice 170 ST in Droitwich, it had a damp smell, a killer in my opinion, I told the Ebay seller but he just ignored me (he has very good feedback, I thought he would like to protect it but he blocked my messages), some poor buyer has problems to come!
     
    #3 caldi, Feb 11, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2018
  4. Tom B

    Tom B Senior Member

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    Thanks Dicko90 & caldi, I'm glad the battery doesn't need to be removed, that should make the process a lot less painful.

    I agree with you caldi, if you smell damp you need to walk away. I went to the local auctions a couple of weeks ago and looked at a silver 143 Sport Tech ST. It had no odour but the boot area was so wet that the floorboards were bowing. It's now for sale on a few websites, I hope no-one on here buys it.
     
  5. Arctic

    Arctic Full Member

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    Done this yesterday, I removed the battery to make sure everything was clear.

    It amazed me how much water got there, as I had a problem with the TPMS light, hopefully that's the trick to sort it
     
  6. caldi

    caldi Full Member

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    TPMS alerts are caused by changing tyre pressures or very low battery voltage, if you have had a flood check your CCM/undercarpet wiring for water damage.
     
  7. philster60

    philster60 New Member

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    Hi Chaps

    the Engine management light has come on my 2.0 TDI sport tech

    why?? its running fine - any advise?

    Thanks

    Phil
     
  8. Dicko90

    Dicko90 Full Member

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    Get a diagnostic machine plugged in as with out a fault code it could be anything! I’ve got a OBD WiFi adapter which I use too monitor the DPF but can also diagnose faults with the correct programme/App. Very handy and only cost a few quid off eBay.
     
    #8 Dicko90, Feb 23, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2018
  9. Corvus Cornix

    Corvus Cornix Newbie

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    Last year I noticed toe-jam smell in the car. I removed the battey, and yes, water in bottom. Some moisture on top off passenger carpet. First I removed the big plug, diddent sse the smal one. Tried to flush. Then opened the smal one. Everything ok exept the smell. Did by the aerosol can and cleaned the aircon. Sucsess!

    This winter I did notice a new smell after a heavy rain period. Checked tha battery bay. Dry. Then on drivers carpet it was swimmin-pool. After some inspection I found out it was the smal drain hole between the bonnet and side panel (up under the hinch) that was blocked. The rainwater was leading back under the ecu area and into the car.
    This drain hole is very difficult to spot. BTW, I have a LHD
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Tamas328

    Tamas328 Full Member

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    I wish I knew this when I first bought my car. It got flooded and I had to get a new CCM in the end. I was without the car for a few weeks, had to remove passenger seat, pull carpet up, dry the carpet/sound insulation... nightmare.

    It's all good now, keeping an eye on it fairly regularly.

    The only thing is the remote fob doesn't work with the new CCM, and I can't seem to find anyone nearby with a VCDS cable who could have a go at re-programming it. I should probably take it to a vag specialist
     
  11. caldi

    caldi Full Member

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    Read your handbook, it will tell you how to match the fob, VCDS is not needed.
     
  12. Tamas328

    Tamas328 Full Member

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    I tried the common ways when you put a key in the ignition and lock and unlock the door with the other key 3 times (and various versions of the above as found on Audi forums). I think it only works when you replace the battery and the key needs "reminding". But this key has never been paired to this CCM before so it is different.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
     
  13. caldi

    caldi Full Member

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    I bought a fob and matched it to my Exeo, I have VCDS but I did not have to use it, try this

    Follow these simple instructions -


    You will need BOTH remote key fobs to reprogram one or both of them.


    1. Take the key you DO NOT want to reprogram and put it in the ignition.


    2. Turn the ignition on but DO NOT start the engine.


    3. Put the second key in the drivers door lock. Whilst it is in the lock press the UNLOCK button once only (the lights should flash on the car but the doors will remain locked).


    4. With the second key still in the drivers door lock, unlock and then lock the door again.


    5. Remove the key from the door lock.


    6. Open the car and remove the key from the ignition.


    7. Now test the key that you have reprogrammed, the one you have removed from the door lock.


    If both your remotes don't work, do all of the above for the first key, but at step number 3. press the UNLOCK button TWICE. The light will flash twice and then proceed onto step 4 and finish the procedure.
     
  14. Tamas328

    Tamas328 Full Member

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    My spare key is a service key so no remote buttons. Will it still work?

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
     
  15. Tamas328

    Tamas328 Full Member

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    Also, if when I open the door (key in lock and turn as buttons don't work obv) I have about 10 seconds to put the key in the ignition before the alarm goes off.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
     
  16. Tom B

    Tom B Senior Member

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    This is the remote coding procedure from Ross Tech Wiki, it might help you Tamas328

    Remote Control Synchronization
    The 8E/8H platform Audi A4 is noted for losing remote control synchronization after low voltage conditions as explained in several TSBs. If the remotes are not functional after performing the Remote Control Matching the following synchronization may be necessary:

    Press any button on remote control.
    If vehicle does not respond by locking or unlocking:
    Lock and unlock vehicle within 30 seconds using driver-side lock with the door closed.
    Open the door and insert the key in the ignition turning it to the On position.
    Remove the key from the ignition.
    Press any button on remote control.
    Now check function of synchronized remote control.
     
  17. caldi

    caldi Full Member

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    Checking the posts, if you do not have a remote that has been programed to that CCM in the past you will not be able to program your remote without VCDS or similar/dealers. I have programed a new remote before but only with a working remote. The last post is only for re-programming previously matched remotes after voltage loss.
     
  18. Tamas328

    Tamas328 Full Member

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    Yes thats exactly what i thought. Been trying to find someone in the VCDS facebook group but nobody seems to be around me in the north east.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
     
  19. caldi

    caldi Full Member

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    Tamas, reach under the battery from the right side of the engine bay and use a long flat bladed screwdriver to dislodge the oval rubber bung and pull it out, floods will be a thing of the past!
     

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