QUOTE harty190486 really helped me out with the piping and advise, so cheers mate
This arrived in the post today, my new blueFlame 3" Downpipe and 200cell sports cat, i am getting it fitted tomorrow so i can't wait.
3" DP and Cat
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Not a problem if i can help any more just ask mate, am really jelous of you down pipe i want 1 lol looking really good mate a cracking motor, have fitted all my handling stuff now and love its so down pipe will be soon for me
This arrived in the post today, my new blueFlame 3" Downpipe and 200cell sports cat, i am getting it fitted tomorrow so i can't wait.
3" DP and Cat
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768 and weights 297KB.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768 and weights 261KB. QUOTE
Not a problem if i can help any more just ask mate, am really jelous of you down pipe i want 1 lol looking really good mate a cracking motor, have fitted all my handling stuff now and love its so down pipe will be soon for me
Thanks Harty.
I bet your really notice the difference with the RARB, did you have any fitment issues with the rear drop links they give you?, mine was very very tight and the ARB was very close to the bottom of where the spring sits.
I bet your really notice the difference with the RARB, did you have any fitment issues with the rear drop links they give you?, mine was very very tight and the ARB was very close to the bottom of where the spring sits.
notice a massive difference with it mate no fitment issues tho was a really good fit, the car feels so tight now really can push it round the twistys
Only meets i go to are usually the vagdrivers.net meets/shows.I wasn't aware of any SEAT meets around the south, is there?
nah man. jaysus id love if there was but i dont think there are enough seats down here. i was talking about streetlegalirl.com meet in limerick this summer. i missed the last one in november but was supposed to have been savage. all the lads from afterdarkcruisers.com usually come along too.
I bought the parts individually on Ebay, its only joiners, reducers and Alloy pipe.You can buy all the pipe work for less than £100.
I decided to treat myself again! to a new toy, Digial/LED boost and oil temp guage with volt reading/check.They were a complete pig to install due to the extra wiring in the engine bay for the boost sensor, but they are meant to be super accurrate and failing that i think they look awesome, so it was well worth it in the end.
Some vids fresh after the install, enjoy
P.s i did the vids on my blackberry so please excuse the poor quality, they are much better in the flesh
Some vids fresh after the install, enjoy
P.s i did the vids on my blackberry so please excuse the poor quality, they are much better in the flesh
love that boost guage. and also top work on the FMIC pipes. wish i took more time on mine. im going to re aligne mine
Thanks, i must get some more vids of the gauges in the dark.
TBO i took 2 goes on the pipe work and i am thinking of re-doing it and replacing the 63mm to 57mm silicon reducer and replacing them with alloy pipe.
I guess its a job that just comes down to expierence.
aup mate gauges look damn good but is that 1.7 bar off boost i spy at the end of the last vid if so thats quite a high spike hope your rods last
Yeah, she's always had that boost spike, that was a 3rd gear spike on the vid, i have even spotted a 1.8/9 the odd time, i have no clue how to turn it down or stop it, any suggests because this has been playing on my mind lately.
you could try a manual boost controller in line with your n75 to smooth the spike out say set it at 1.5 bar and see how it goes at that, they arnt that much to buy mate but i would be worried about that sort of boost level mate and hope this doesnt shag the rods or your clutch i have also heard you can adjust the n75 with the screw on top to smooth out the spike i have done this with a old n75 and you can make it really smooth or really aggresive dependant which way you turn the grub screw
here is a quote i found
"By adjusting the N75 valve, you can adjust the amount of air which should leave when the N75 is opened. If you adjust the N75 to the right, you will "close" the N75 valve, so just a few amounts of air is wented from the wastegate which will result in a lot smoother drive (eliminating surging, because the boost will be more constant), BUT at the same time it will introduce more boost to the wastegate, causing LESS overall boost. Adjusting the N75 valve to the left will "open" it, enabling more air to escape from the wastegate when N75 is opened, which will result in more boost (coz wastegate wont open), BUT at the same time it MAY cause surging as the N75 opening/closing will be more obvious."
Hmm, i might give this a go, what have i got to loose, i am still confused to why i can't reduce the boost by way of unisetting or something, i might post up a message in the vag-com section, i know there are a lot of other peeps boosting this high, but it still does worry me.
the only way i know of reducing boost with unisettings or custom settings is by reducing the load scale factor from 100% down in small increments if you try the n75 make certain to mark the original position also the grub screw is glued in so will taks a bit to break the seal but it will turn its best to do it when engine is warm
I checked the N75 today on my LCR, i could not see the screw you were on about, i pulled a 1.8bar spike tonight which is too high IMO.
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