leon handbrake adjustment

Jayt

Active Member
Oct 5, 2007
201
0
is there any way to tighten this up as its going up a click or two too many,
 

godber225r

T15 PJG
Sep 6, 2008
893
0
Whiteley, Hampshire
not sure but reckon under the console, from the rear seats take the ashtray out and should see some nuts prob 10mm

Correct its under the ashtray in the back and its a 10mm nut tighten it till you have about 4 clicks on the handbrake.

TOP TIP, spray grease or wd40 on the levers on the calipers first and work it a bit before you adjust.
 
Sep 29, 2008
835
1
Bradford
you'll need a deep socket, 13mm iirc, medium extension, a universal joint and of course a ratchet, it helps to take up a bit of slack on the cable by applying the handbrake a couple of clicks before trying to tighten.
 

Jayt

Active Member
Oct 5, 2007
201
0
thanks for the help folks but another question i would have assumed the bar pulling these cables would have been straight i noticed that one is set quite a bit behind the other almost as it was bent in the middle, as i have never seen one before could you tell me if its wrong or right cheers again.
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
The bar is not attached to the lever but pivoted on it. so that you can adjust each side separately. It sounds as though somebody has been there already and tightened up one side.

First, check the pads to make sure you have enough depth on all four - not just the outside, check the inside pads too.

My first guess would be that one side has either worn the pads right down or has a jammed caliper and stretched cable, hence the imbalance at the lever end. Best way to tell is to look at the calipers while a mate applys the handbrake. See if the levers are moving on both sides.

Another way to check is to put the back end on axle stands, spin each back wheel and get a mate to apply the handbrake. If only one side gets braked, you've got a seized handbrake linkage on that caliper.
 

Jayt

Active Member
Oct 5, 2007
201
0
it just looks like the balance bar is offset with one side longer than the other, hand brake and brake wear are all perfect plus it also looks right in the space, possible offset to allow it to be narrower, i dunno im used to crappy fords where things are alot more simple......
 
Sep 29, 2008
835
1
Bradford
i think what may have happened is that somebody has previously changed 1 side of the handbrake cable thus the difference in lengths, if everything is working fine except for too many clicks on the lever just tighten the nut up a couple of turns.
 

Jayt

Active Member
Oct 5, 2007
201
0
went through test no problem, so i doubt it needs any further worry unless i bump in to someone elses car
 
Dec 31, 2007
1,479
0
Reading
on my handbrake, the cables are slightly stretched and one side isn't seated in the handbrake caliper properly - you can get under the back of the car and look on the inside of the brake caliper, you can see the handbrake caliper and should see where the ball at the end of the cable meets it. Check its seated properly otherwise you winding up the adjustment could just end up stretching the cable out.
 

8bit

Active Member
Feb 11, 2010
3,401
3
Aberdeen
Another way to check is to put the back end on axle stands, spin each back wheel and get a mate to apply the handbrake. If only one side gets braked, you've got a seized handbrake linkage on that caliper.

Thread resurrection! My handbrake needs to be pulled as tight as I dare to get it to hold the car on any sort of substantial slope. I noticed when I had the rear on axle stands to fit my rear ARB that the driver's side rear wheel would still turn, even though the handbrake was applied. Also, generally when I wash the car I notice that that wheel always seems to be the worst for brake dust - worse even than the front wheels.

Does that all add up toa seized handbrake linkage on that wheel?
 

8bit

Active Member
Feb 11, 2010
3,401
3
Aberdeen
As I said above, yes.

Yeah I did read your post (I quoted it, see) but I just wanted to confirm - cos I see more brake dust on that wheel, and you didn't mention it, I wanted to check with you.

Thanks for confirming.
 

Jester77

Active Member
Nov 1, 2008
88
0
West London
www.ukdrn.co.uk
Hi all.
I've Just picked up on this thread which has been really handy because I've now found out that my brake caliper was seized and the cable has stretched.
Now I've freed the caliper but it looks like I need to change the cable as it's way longer than the other one but what I want to ask is will the caliper be okay with the new cable or does it have parts that may be worn?
If I pull the cable tight with my hands it jams on okay.
Also how hard is t to replace the cable?
Thanks guys
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
You're going to have the rear wheels in the air and no handbrake. Make sure to chock the wheels securely. Really well. I mean this. Ramps might be better and a lift or a pit would be the best, if you have access to them. Still need to chock the wheels, though.

It's easier if you take off the wheel on the side you'll be working on. Taking off the center console makes getting at the adjuster easier but isn't mandatory. You will have to take the ashtray out.

Make sure the handbrake lever is fully down ("off").

Jack up rear and place securely on axle stands. You're going to be in and out of the car doing the adjustments.

Slacken off the adjuster at the handbrake lever end and pop the cable nipple out of the adjuster, so the cable is free to slide out.

At the caliper end, pop the cable nipple out of the lever on the caliper and unclip the cable.

The cable is supported in several places on its run to the central tunnel. Unclip from the supports and pull the cable out of the guide tube. Remember where the supports are - you'll have to clip the new cable into them. Take a photo if necessary.

Assembly is the reverse of the removal. You will probably need to slacken the adjuster off some more if your cable was stretched.

Take up all the slack in the cables using the adjuster.

Now you need to adjust the handbrake.

Press footbrake pedal hard once, to take up all the slack in the caliper.

Turn the handbrake adjuster until the levers on both calipers are just pulled off the stops - 1mm is the recommendation. They won't pull off evenly, the adjuster will favour one side, so it's easiest if you have a mate who can do the adjusting while you watch the calipers. Remember I said that you need to be up on axle stands: make really sure they are secure and that your wheels are chocked and the car cannot move. If it falls on you, you won't like it.

Set and release the handbrake two or three times. Now check that both back wheels spin freely.

Reassemble wheels and center console if you removed them.

Haynes Golf Mk.4 manual covers all this.
 
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