leon handbrake adjustment
- Thread starter Jayt
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- adjustment handbrake leon
Well everything was going to plan until I realized I've pull the metal guide tube out of place and now the cable wont feed through to the lever
I have the car on ramps but I can't really see enough to get the thing back in so I'm stuck so any suggestions please guys?
How hard is it to remove the center console?
I have the car on ramps but I can't really see enough to get the thing back in so I'm stuck so any suggestions please guys?
How hard is it to remove the center console?
Center console: six bolts, two under the ashtray, four more either side at the front, under oval covers that are hard to get off without marking.
If you have an armrest that has to come off first.
The handbrake cover just pulls off, it says. I've never tried.
Switch connectors and the OBD connector will need to come off as well..
If you have an armrest that has to come off first.
The handbrake cover just pulls off, it says. I've never tried.
Switch connectors and the OBD connector will need to come off as well..
Just fitted the cable and hopefully all is good.
Just a couple of points for anybody else picking this thread up on Google.
Make sure you hold the metal feed tube when removing the old cable and it doesn't have to be removed but removing the centre console did make things so much easier.
Thanks Muttley and this Seat forum which yet again comes to my rescue and saves money
Just a couple of points for anybody else picking this thread up on Google.
Make sure you hold the metal feed tube when removing the old cable and it doesn't have to be removed but removing the centre console did make things so much easier.
Thanks Muttley and this Seat forum which yet again comes to my rescue and saves money
Resurrect (again)
I have just change my rear pads (both sides) as they were low on grip and the drivers side wasn't braking properly only the passenger side is/was.
Now it's still the same even after changing the pads and winding back the calipers.
Do I need to adjust the handbrake cable via the ashtray? This thread says a seized caliper but doesn't explain how to fix it.
Help please.
I have just change my rear pads (both sides) as they were low on grip and the drivers side wasn't braking properly only the passenger side is/was.
Now it's still the same even after changing the pads and winding back the calipers.
Do I need to adjust the handbrake cable via the ashtray? This thread says a seized caliper but doesn't explain how to fix it.
Help please.
Post 20 covers the handbrake adjustment. You will have to readjust the handbrake after fitting new pads.
Once you've adjusted the handbrake, make sure it's braking both wheels before you take it off the axle stands. If it isn't, then the handbrake mechanism is jammed. Check that the lever on the caliper moves when you apply the handbrake, but this isn't an infallible check. The mechanism inside the piston can jam, at which point a new or second-hand caliper is probably the best bet. I don't know how easy it is to get service kits for the caliper.
Are the footbrakes applying even pressure to the rear wheels? If not, it could be as simple as sticking pads.
Once you've adjusted the handbrake, make sure it's braking both wheels before you take it off the axle stands. If it isn't, then the handbrake mechanism is jammed. Check that the lever on the caliper moves when you apply the handbrake, but this isn't an infallible check. The mechanism inside the piston can jam, at which point a new or second-hand caliper is probably the best bet. I don't know how easy it is to get service kits for the caliper.
Are the footbrakes applying even pressure to the rear wheels? If not, it could be as simple as sticking pads.
Yeah I read post 20 and will be adjusting it today - completely forgot to adjust the handbrake cable yesterday so will do today.
It is applying the brakes just not all on like it should be, so I don't think it's jammed just needs tightening - a lot!
It is applying the brakes just not all on like it should be, so I don't think it's jammed just needs tightening - a lot!
So my LC handbrake is shot, have to do 7 Clicks up for it to sort of work.So i looked at how to adjust it on the web and found where to tighten it up but after seeing it it looks a bit fooked?
Am i right i could have tightened it up if they were both balanced and at the same length? But after seeing it like this with the right side so much longer im guessing i can't just tighten it.
Seeing the picture can anyone confirm which brake is sticking/has the problem and also looking at the right cable will it need replacing as it looks like it has stretch alot.
Thanks for your time.
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Read back in this thread and Muttleys info is spot on.
Basically someone has tried a quick fix to a handbrake problem thinking just doing that adjuster as tight as it will go does the job. Not!
Jack up the back of the car properly and safely, chock the front wheels.
Slacken it all off then get under and check the movement of the handbrake mechanism on the calipers. I use a long strong flat blade screwdriver to get in and start gently trying to lever the mechanism back and forth. WD40 or the like will help as will a hammer. Don't go too heavy handed, remember you are manually forcing the piston. I'll guess one has frozen and that will be evident but as you are there you might as well run the maintenance on both.
I'll also guess that you will have a missing return spring so get ready to buy some. I got mine from Dave at Seres when they were a forum sponsor, Mike at Listers at now taken that spot so try him.
Once you are happy that all is moving fairly freely and any missing return springs fitted then get back inside and start tightening up on the internal adjuster. It should now pull both sides fairly evenly. Set it so that full handbrake is on with 3 but no more than 5 clicks.
For me the worst part of this job is that stoopid adjuster nut, can't get a wide swing on it so seems like hundreds of little turns.
Basically someone has tried a quick fix to a handbrake problem thinking just doing that adjuster as tight as it will go does the job. Not!
Jack up the back of the car properly and safely, chock the front wheels.
Slacken it all off then get under and check the movement of the handbrake mechanism on the calipers. I use a long strong flat blade screwdriver to get in and start gently trying to lever the mechanism back and forth. WD40 or the like will help as will a hammer. Don't go too heavy handed, remember you are manually forcing the piston. I'll guess one has frozen and that will be evident but as you are there you might as well run the maintenance on both.
I'll also guess that you will have a missing return spring so get ready to buy some. I got mine from Dave at Seres when they were a forum sponsor, Mike at Listers at now taken that spot so try him.
Once you are happy that all is moving fairly freely and any missing return springs fitted then get back inside and start tightening up on the internal adjuster. It should now pull both sides fairly evenly. Set it so that full handbrake is on with 3 but no more than 5 clicks.
For me the worst part of this job is that stoopid adjuster nut, can't get a wide swing on it so seems like hundreds of little turns.
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Not easy to say which side is stuck - the right side may be stuck 'on', leading to slack in the cable, or the left side might be stuck 'off' pulling the cable back. Not safe at this stage to say if one or the other cable has stretched, all the adjustment has been taken up by the imbalance between the two calipers.
It is relatively easy to test which side is stuck by just jacking up one rear wheel at a time (chock the front wheels and check the chocks after you've jacked it up), spinning the rear wheel and applying the handbrake.
One other thing I have experienced since I first commented on this thread: feel each rear wheel after you've been for a journey and see if one is hotter than the other. If it is, it's likely that the caliper itself is seized and the brake pads are always in contact with the disk. This pretty much means you need a replacement caliper - they can sometimes be refurbished but it's not a quick job.
The handbrake mechanism is horribly complicated, due to the regulations that require it to be completely separate from the footbrake. So you end up with a mechanical connection intruding into the brake piston with a self-adjustment mechanism that can jam. Premium cars have separate calipers for the handbrake, or a litle drum inside the disk. These can go wrong too but are at least easier to work on.
It is relatively easy to test which side is stuck by just jacking up one rear wheel at a time (chock the front wheels and check the chocks after you've jacked it up), spinning the rear wheel and applying the handbrake.
One other thing I have experienced since I first commented on this thread: feel each rear wheel after you've been for a journey and see if one is hotter than the other. If it is, it's likely that the caliper itself is seized and the brake pads are always in contact with the disk. This pretty much means you need a replacement caliper - they can sometimes be refurbished but it's not a quick job.
The handbrake mechanism is horribly complicated, due to the regulations that require it to be completely separate from the footbrake. So you end up with a mechanical connection intruding into the brake piston with a self-adjustment mechanism that can jam. Premium cars have separate calipers for the handbrake, or a litle drum inside the disk. These can go wrong too but are at least easier to work on.
Thanks for the info mate
Will have to see if i can get a new trolly jack as mine has started leaking Ok so i managed to find some time to jack the car up and see if i could try and find out what part is the trouble maker.
Both wheels spin OK when handbrake is off and don't spin when on.
I have made a video just to make things more clear, as everyone likes vids right.
>>>>https://youtu.be/NRkBDswVzOA<<<<
The first Caliper rear left and where the handbrake cable attaches to feels really stiff compared to the right.
And then when pulling up the handbrake does this confirm that the problem is with the first rear left caliper? Has it seized that's why the cable will not match up to the right cables length?
Thanks for the help.
Both wheels spin OK when handbrake is off and don't spin when on.
I have made a video just to make things more clear, as everyone likes vids right.
>>>>https://youtu.be/NRkBDswVzOA<<<<
The first Caliper rear left and where the handbrake cable attaches to feels really stiff compared to the right.
And then when pulling up the handbrake does this confirm that the problem is with the first rear left caliper? Has it seized that's why the cable will not match up to the right cables length?
Thanks for the help.
All Fixed, found out it was not the calipers at fault, the pads on one side were stuck and would not move at all. So gave them a good clean with wire brush, coppergreased the pads and greased up the slider pins. Then wind the pistons back all the way, put all back together, pulled the handbreak up and down servral times and the cables now are level and holding car after 2 clicks. Happy days
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