same here, doesn't bother me too much but still want to fix mine but have no idea how too so was hoping someone could give some detailed instructions.
'Lights on' warning buzzer not working
- Thread starter CupraSmitten
- Start date
same here, doesn't bother me too much but still want to fix mine but have no idea how too so was hoping someone could give some detailed instructions.
I ended up just throwing a new lock in mine a few weeks back but I still had the switch I bought before christmas from RS. This weekend I got to give it a go on my mates Ibiza as his was playing up too.
This is the switch I used:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=4728308
Its by the same manufacturer as the OEM switch and has the same IP rating so wont be affected by water and dust like the maplin ones will.
Didn't get any pics due to it starting to snow just after I got the door card off which put some time pressure on!
Roughly though this is what I did:
1. Remove door card (should be a guide for that on here somewhere)
2. Remove the ancillaries carrier (Pretty similar to this: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/119359-removing-the-ancillaries-carrier/?) needed a fair bit of jiggery pokery to slide it down and off.
2a. Unplug the lock mech wiring
3. Remove the lock barrel by removing the blanking grommet on the side of the door and then using a long T25 bit to undo the retaining ring.
4. Prise out the external door handle release cable.
5. Undo the spline style bolts that hold the lock mechanism in and remove from the car
6. Cut red and blue wires going to external switch half way along their length and drill out the blob rivets holding the switch in.
7. Elongate the holes which the blob rivets were in with a round needle file so that the switch can be positioned correctly
8. Attach the switch using M2 csnk machine screws and nuts with a dab of threadlock on each thread. Ensure that the heads do no stick pround of the lock chassis.
9. Extend the red and blue wires using solder and heatshrink sleaving.
10. Solder one of them to the terminal on its own on the switch and cover the connection in heat shrink.
11. Solder the other wire to the middle terminal on the switch and again cover the connection with heat shrink.
12. Cover remaining terminal with heatshrink.
13. Check that the mechanism is clear of the switch body with both the door shut and open position. (do this by sliding the mechanism with a screwdriver as if it was closing against it). If its not ok adjust the slots and switch position and re apply some thread lock if need be.
14. Start reassembling things in the reverse order of removal and testing as you go. I didn't close the door onto the striker plate, just used a screwdriver on the mech again incase I needed to get back in there.
Took about 2 hours in the end and I used:
T25 long torx bit (for lock barrell and door panel)
Cross head screw driver (for door panel)
Small flat blade screw driver (to release external door handle cable)
No 8 spline bit (For lock mech removal)
10mm socket (Ancillaries and glass removal)
Trim removal tool (for wire clip removal)
Soldering iron
Round needle file
Thread lock
Multimeter (To buzz out the old switch)
Duct tape and kitchen roll (To hold glass in place and not mark the door top when the winder mech is disconnected from the glass)
16/0.2 wire (cable extensions)
3mm heat shrink (for cable joints)
2off M2 CSNK machine screws
2off M2 nuts
Solder
Not too bad a job really. Seemed like a lot of faff compared to just putting a new lock in though. Give it a go, but if you break it you get to keep the pieces, its not my fault
Hope that helps give a bit more info anyhow...
This is the switch I used:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=4728308
Its by the same manufacturer as the OEM switch and has the same IP rating so wont be affected by water and dust like the maplin ones will.
Didn't get any pics due to it starting to snow just after I got the door card off which put some time pressure on!
Roughly though this is what I did:
1. Remove door card (should be a guide for that on here somewhere)
2. Remove the ancillaries carrier (Pretty similar to this: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/119359-removing-the-ancillaries-carrier/?) needed a fair bit of jiggery pokery to slide it down and off.
2a. Unplug the lock mech wiring
3. Remove the lock barrel by removing the blanking grommet on the side of the door and then using a long T25 bit to undo the retaining ring.
4. Prise out the external door handle release cable.
5. Undo the spline style bolts that hold the lock mechanism in and remove from the car
6. Cut red and blue wires going to external switch half way along their length and drill out the blob rivets holding the switch in.
7. Elongate the holes which the blob rivets were in with a round needle file so that the switch can be positioned correctly
8. Attach the switch using M2 csnk machine screws and nuts with a dab of threadlock on each thread. Ensure that the heads do no stick pround of the lock chassis.
9. Extend the red and blue wires using solder and heatshrink sleaving.
10. Solder one of them to the terminal on its own on the switch and cover the connection in heat shrink.
11. Solder the other wire to the middle terminal on the switch and again cover the connection with heat shrink.
12. Cover remaining terminal with heatshrink.
13. Check that the mechanism is clear of the switch body with both the door shut and open position. (do this by sliding the mechanism with a screwdriver as if it was closing against it). If its not ok adjust the slots and switch position and re apply some thread lock if need be.
14. Start reassembling things in the reverse order of removal and testing as you go. I didn't close the door onto the striker plate, just used a screwdriver on the mech again incase I needed to get back in there.
Took about 2 hours in the end and I used:
T25 long torx bit (for lock barrell and door panel)
Cross head screw driver (for door panel)
Small flat blade screw driver (to release external door handle cable)
No 8 spline bit (For lock mech removal)
10mm socket (Ancillaries and glass removal)
Trim removal tool (for wire clip removal)
Soldering iron
Round needle file
Thread lock
Multimeter (To buzz out the old switch)
Duct tape and kitchen roll (To hold glass in place and not mark the door top when the winder mech is disconnected from the glass)
16/0.2 wire (cable extensions)
3mm heat shrink (for cable joints)
2off M2 CSNK machine screws
2off M2 nuts
Solder
Not too bad a job really. Seemed like a lot of faff compared to just putting a new lock in though. Give it a go, but if you break it you get to keep the pieces, its not my fault
Hope that helps give a bit more info anyhow...
hello I have a problem my the driver lock as well when I am driving and lock the doors from inside the car the driver door doesn't lock can you please tell me what causes the problem I drive seat Ibiza fr 2008
OK.. so I've a 2005 altea. The interior light works with all the doors on/off with open/close but I don't have a buzzer for lights left on. So where is the buzzer located. Is it the same as old Vauxhall's it's plugged into the fuse box like a relay. Or am I quicker buying a cheapo buzzer and fitting it. If so anyone know what wire it is coming from the drivers door that goes to ground when opened
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Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Folks, since maplin no longer on the go does anyone have details of the microswitch that they used to sell? Even a picture would be great.
I’ve also seen this full lock set seems cheap and my worry is it will fail, however given the effort to get the lock out it might make sense to have this ready for twenty quid.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-LEO...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
I’ve also seen this full lock set seems cheap and my worry is it will fail, however given the effort to get the lock out it might make sense to have this ready for twenty quid.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-LEO...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/161374916544
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/161374920353
I fitted a pair of these ^ to my 3 door Ibiza three months ago, for the price it was a worthy purchase.
I can now, at my leisure, take apart the OE ones and replace the micro-switches with something more durable while keeping the car on the road.
It's great to be able to lock the passenger door, I had to disconnect the outer handle to secure the door.
Im currently searching for an early 6L to retrofit the door locking pin and linkage to the door card so I can, if needed, manually lock the door from inside
Cheers, it’s saying doesn’t fit my car but I’m sure they must all be the same as vag are good at using same parts. Think I will get one and do like you have it ready to swap in.
Message the seller and get them to link you to the one that fits your car mate
I've just replaced the lock on my Ibiza due to this same problem, with a £20 breakers part off ebay. All ok, but I'd like to take the old lock apart and replace the likely broken micro switch as others have done.
However, I can't see how to get into it. It appears to be two halves shut together by a couple of 'tabs' but pushing them in doesn't help. Seems like it's held together some other way but no screws etc.
Part number is 5N2837016C as in this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283854456607
The holes in the black plastic in these pics do not contain screws
Anyone any ideas on how to get into it?
However, I can't see how to get into it. It appears to be two halves shut together by a couple of 'tabs' but pushing them in doesn't help. Seems like it's held together some other way but no screws etc.
Part number is 5N2837016C as in this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283854456607
The holes in the black plastic in these pics do not contain screws
Anyone any ideas on how to get into it?
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