Loss of power and oil consumption

[Robot]

I haven't heard any from Hortons yet, but now it's weekend so maybe I'll hear something next week.

Anyway, I decided to get some vulcanising tape to temporarly close up the air leak a bit on the brake servo hose. The hose was quite dusty and dirty so I wiped it and saw the part nr on it... I'm feeling quite stupid now I should have checked that first thing.

The nr. on the hose is 1J0 612 041 AM.

When I look it up on oemepc.com it says it's for Audi A3, Golf, Bora.
I checked oemvwshop.com and it doesn't show there but gives 1J0 612 041 EF as an alternative and that one is for AKL and Seat Leon. That one is listed on oemepc for SEAT Leon as well. PR-codes are same also.

So the one I should get is 1J0 612 041 EF (or AM), but seems like it's difficult to find a shop that has it.

Searching on VAICO on both EF and AM gives 1J0 612 041 AK instead, which it's for Audi A3 and Skoda Octavia, AEH/AKL/APF engines.

It seems like 1J0 612 041 AM, 1J0 612 041 EF and 1J0 612 041 AK are the same hose.
And they are for mechanical throttle, so you were spot on there mate.

So I'm probably going for the VAICO hose, 1J0 612 041 AK even though the online shop I'm ordering from say it's not for my car (according to plate nr). But it shows both AM and EF in the OEM list for this hose.
I don't know if I'll wait for an answer from Hortons, I should to order the parts soon.

 

[Legojon]

Send Listers a message... or if your desperate, give them a call and they'll sort it out for you at a good price over the phone.

 

[mty12345]

I haven't heard any from Hortons yet, but now it's weekend so maybe I'll hear something next week.

Anyway, I decided to get some vulcanising tape to temporarly close up the air leak a bit on the brake servo hose. The hose was quite dusty and dirty so I wiped it and saw the part nr on it... I'm feeling quite stupid now I should have checked that first thing.

The nr. on the hose is 1J0 612 041 AM.

When I look it up on oemepc.com it says it's for Audi A3, Golf, Bora.
I checked oemvwshop.com and it doesn't show there but gives 1J0 612 041 EF as an alternative and that one is for AKL and Seat Leon. That one is listed on oemepc for SEAT Leon as well. PR-codes are same also.

So the one I should get is 1J0 612 041 EF (or AM), but seems like it's difficult to find a shop that has it.

Searching on VAICO on both EF and AM gives 1J0 612 041 AK instead, which it's for Audi A3 and Skoda Octavia, AEH/AKL/APF engines.

It seems like 1J0 612 041 AM, 1J0 612 041 EF and 1J0 612 041 AK are the same hose.
And they are for mechanical throttle, so you were spot on there mate.

So I'm probably going for the VAICO hose, 1J0 612 041 AK even though the online shop I'm ordering from say it's not for my car (according to plate nr). But it shows both AM and EF in the OEM list for this hose.
I don't know if I'll wait for an answer from Hortons, I should to order the parts soon.

Sounds like a plan mate, if it's the same part number then you should be all goo, i know the AKL was also in the A3 and the Octavia so sounds good to me.

 

[Robot]

Send Listers a message... or if your desperate, give them a call and they'll sort it out for you at a good price over the phone.

Thanks for the advice! But I've already placed an order, now just have to wait and see when it arrives.

 

[Robot]

Sounds like a plan mate, if it's the same part number then you should be all goo, i know the AKL was also in the A3 and the Octavia so sounds good to me.

Now just have to wait for the package. I'll update here when I got any news.

 

[Robot]

Sounds like a plan mate, if it's the same part number then you should be all goo, i know the AKL was also in the A3 and the Octavia so sounds good to me.

Ok, it's been a while but here's an update.

One thing I forgot to mention in my previous posts is that when it was hesitating and sort of jumping forward at it's worst there was a sound from underneath or bottom front of car. It didn't sound like an exhaust bang, more like a hitting sound. Not very loud and a bit difficult to describe it.
Anyway, I ordered the PCV and the vacuum hose to the brake servo.
When I got it it turned out that the vacuum hose looked different than the one in my car. It had the same shape and length, but the non return valve looked different. It's an extra pipe on it. Even though the shops I was asking before ordering said it is the correct one.

But I put it on anyway. I also changed the PCV which was not difficult to do. But the small hose from the intake pipe/hose that connects to the PCV just fell apart when removing it. So had to do a temporary fix with a piece of an old hose, vulc tape and some other tape. It's keeping together for now, but it's a tighter passage for the air/gas to go through there. Maybe half the size.

I'm looking for a new one with the electric connector, I'm guessing it's for some kind of warmer in the pipe for colder climate.

After it was done I took it for a test drive and it felt better, felt like the car was more responsive. I only drove max 50 km/h, didn't try the highway.
I could still feel some hesitation and loss of power, but it was a bit better.
Parked the car and left it on idle and checked the little pipe on the non return valve. When putting my finger on it I could feel it sucked air. So I closed it with some tape.

Then I drove it every day, only shorter distances in my town. Few kilometers every day. Still felt hesitation, loss of power but not as much as before I changed those parts.
But after 4-5 days, after I had been driving a little longer distance, when I was parking in town I felt the whole car shaking, could feel it in the steering wheel. The car didn't sound good either. I drove it home and it didn't run well. Parked it and went out and could feel a weird smell. I couldn't really define it, but a friend thought it smelled like matches.

I have driven it a few times after that and I think it's smelling both petrol and heat and some weird slightly sulfur smell. Sometimes the petrol smell comes quite strong, sometimes the heat and sulfur smell is stronger.

The temp meter is in the middle, like normal.
I've been told the engine now sounds like it's not running on all cylinders.

But because of the weird smell I started to suspect the catalytic converter after googling about it. I got some help and he could remove the connecting pipe from the rear end of the catalytic converter and look inside through the hole. There was nothing broken there and he didn't think anything was wrong with it.

We couldn't remove the front since the pipe from the engine is welded to the cat. And since he thought it was ok and he didn't really have the time I let it be. I asked if maybe it's clogged but he didn't think so.
I tried to take a photo of it, but was difficult to get a good pic.

I borrowed a cheap IR thermometer to check the temp of the cat. Drove it a while to get it up in temp and then checked the temp in the front of the cat and in the back. It was cooler in the front and hotter in the back. And from what I've understood is the way it should be.

I ran VCDS-Lite with my 409-1 KKL cable and now it gave same oxygen senser code but lower limit. Before it was upper limit.

Today I removed the Lambda sensor to see if it would run any better. Of course it was louder and I found it difficult to say if it were any better when on idle because of the loud sound. I took it for a short drive and it felt slightly better, it still hesitates, jumps a bit, doesn't react when I push the gas, but not as much as it did before I removed the Lambda.

So that's where I am now. Car running badly and I have no idea.

I am waiting for new spark plugs and am going to test ohm on the wires when I change the spark plugs (or try to change them, doesn't seem to be the easiest thing on this engine). But that's the only thing I can think of.

Video from under the car, idle.

Video of the engine, idle.

Video of the engine, idle without lambda sensor.

 

[Connor H]

I'd definitely bung up that outlet on the check valve, you can get silicone hose caps and a cable tie. that will work. A leaking brake servo would probably cause some idle issues.

 

[Robot]

I'd definitely bung up that outlet on the check valve, you can get silicone hose caps and a cable tie. that will work. A leaking brake servo would probably cause some idle issues.

Yes, right now it's vulc tape around it. But I should find a cap for it. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Connor H]

Yes, right now it's vulc tape around it. But I should find a cap for it. Thanks for the tip!

I suppose you could replace the check valve with a standard one also, but from experience those plastic hard pipes don’t play nice lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Robot]

I suppose you could replace the check valve with a standard one also, but from experience those plastic hard pipes don’t play nice lol

Yes, I was thinking about that too, but I felt it would be risky with that hard plastic. I might try and make a pipe from some regular vacuum hose and use the old valve.

 

[Connor H]

Yes, I was thinking about that too, but I felt it would be risky with that hard plastic. I might try and make a pipe from some regular vacuum hose and use the old valve.

I’ve taken to using silicone vacuum hose to replace all the old stuff rather than paying big money for a moulded pipe! I did use vacuum for the brake servo and it was just fine, but I ended up finding some wire bound silicone hose that flexes but doesn’t crush under vacuum pressure, as someone did say that because it’s brakes they may be under a lot of vacuum. I think that’s probably exaggerated but for good measure I went with the flex stuff. Worth nothing I got rid of a lot of the extra servo stuff and a check valve.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Robot]

Good idea! And it looks real nice too

 

[Connor H]

Good idea! And it looks real nice too

A bit multi coloured at the moment but it defo looks tidier


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mty12345]

Hi mate, sorry to hear you're still having issues with the car. Sometimes when you get one that hasn't been well maintained by the previous owner then it takes a while to get things sorted out.

From the videos it definitely looks like you still have some issues. It's possible the lambda is faulty and giving you and the engine false readings, but the next thing I would look at is the N80 valve. If this is stuck open, then now you have a good inlet manifold vaccum due to replacing the brake servo hose etc, it could be drawing excess fuel vapour through giving you the new code which indicates the engine now has too much fuel.

You could try disconnecting the pipe that goes from the N80 to your inlet manifold, then blocking it off temporarily to test if that makes a difference to your idle and how it drives.

I will also make a video when I get chance to show how to look at your fuel trims and lambda readings.

 

[Robot]

Hi mate, sorry to hear you're still having issues with the car. Sometimes when you get one that hasn't been well maintained by the previous owner then it takes a while to get things sorted out.

From the videos it definitely looks like you still have some issues. It's possible the lambda is faulty and giving you and the engine false readings, but the next thing I would look at is the N80 valve. If this is stuck open, then now you have a good inlet manifold vaccum due to replacing the brake servo hose etc, it could be drawing excess fuel vapour through giving you the new code which indicates the engine now has too much fuel.

You could try disconnecting the pipe that goes from the N80 to your inlet manifold, then blocking it off temporarily to test if that makes a difference to your idle and how it drives.

I will also make a video when I get chance to show how to look at your fuel trims and lambda readings.

Thanks! After some research I think my valve is sitting right on top of the charcoal canister.
The canister and valve on oemepc.com
Should I remove the connector also? Or just the pipe and block it?
There's no danger to take it on a test drive with the pipe blocked?

Btw. what do you think about the catalytic converter?

A video about fuel trims and lambda readings would be great! Would be of use not only for me

 

[Robot]

I removed the pipe that was connected to the valve on the charcoal cannister. Then blocked it off (with tape) and started the car, but I couldn't tell any difference. I had it running for a while and went for a five minute test drive. Can't say I noticed any difference. It still runs badly, hesitates and jerks and jump when losing power, shakes a bit at times. And sounds bad.
So I guess it's not the N80 which is the problem (if it was the correct one I removed..?)
The search continues...