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MK 3 280 Stage 3

Discussion in 'Readers Rides (SEAT)' started by theoldboy, Jul 7, 2018.

  1. billman

    billman Full Member

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    What adaptation did you do to fit the battery box?
     
  2. theoldboy

    theoldboy The Beast from the East

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    I have had to cut the rear of the body as there is not enough room around the back battery.

    Then with some of the plastic I cut i attached it to the body so that it fits the MK3 Battery tray.

    Currently it is sitting to high and I will be lowering it which I think is a cut on the bottom left hand corner to fit over the support for the intake.

    Once i have it fully set I will take some pics and add them but as you can see from the pictures on my car there is very little room so I have no movement of the body, Top sits on top with no issues.
     
  3. Stephenator280

    Stephenator280 Full Member

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  4. theoldboy

    theoldboy The Beast from the East

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    The big difference is mine is built just for me.

    Wheels were chosen because I love the look but also they are very strong and light weight for the track.
    Size / offset (more by luck than judgement) are all the car will support on the lowered suspension.

    Suspension was to allow me to lower but still have a comfy car and use the DCC Systems- which I do.

    The basic engine mods should be the same just a choice of what turbo and pipework / intercooler & pipework / Mount Kit you want to install.

    Maps are the key that holds all the above together and have to say very happy with mine.

    Then there is the brakes and I prefer mine to the Brembo's because they work great and I dont have to pay even more for a badge.

    Last difference is my car will be lighter (as its a car not an estate)
     
    #164 theoldboy, Jan 12, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2019
    kanyewest and Jimbobcook like this.
  5. theoldboy

    theoldboy The Beast from the East

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    Holiday's over so back to the car,

    On my shopping list at this time are

    Baffled Engine Sump - I have found the one I want (iABED Baffled Aluminium Oil Sump / Pan) just working on finding a better deal

    Getting this for two reasons, 1 the new tank is slightly bigger (eg more oil in the system) and obviously stronger but
    the big selling point - NO MORE STUPID PLASTIC SUMP PLUGS.......

    Upgraded Diverter Valve - Looked at Dump Valve but I have enough noise don't want to much more so still thinking about this.

    Chassis Brace - Found what I was looking for and just waiting for it to come and then get them fitted.
    Screenshot 2019-01-20 at 22.17.23.png




    Coil Packs, still looking at these trying to work out what is the best set.

    I do want some track seats but they are not cheap, waiting on a lead where I may be able to buy the complete kit second hand.

    And just for a laugh I saw this article and was very interested in these pully's till I saw the cost - OUCH maybe if I win the lottery.
     
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  6. theoldboy

    theoldboy The Beast from the East

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    Sump now sorted and on the way so I can test it out in Feb when I have two track days to make sure it works :)
    Screenshot 2019-01-23 at 09.06.32.png
    Features:
    • Full Aluminium construction which replaces the weak OEM plastic sump
    • CNC Machined pan rail and oil level sensor provision plate
    • Aluminium construction on outer body for strength, longevity and resistance to corrosion
    • Prevents oil from sliding up the walls of the crankcase through hard cornering
    • Hinged flaps maintains oil around the OE pickup pipe at all times making it the perfect addition for those that use their car for fast-road or track use
    • 0.3L increased oil capacity without raising the minimum height of the oil level
    • Provision for OEM oil level sensor so no modifications are needed
    • ¾-16” Magnetic drain plug as standard
    Screenshot 2019-01-23 at 12.43.08.png
     
    #166 theoldboy, Jan 23, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2019
    TheSwede, kiddo, louiskopite and 2 others like this.
  7. theoldboy

    theoldboy The Beast from the East

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    Got confirmation from various sites, Revo and my Garage that the Diverter Valve is a weakness in the stock car (when upping the power) so after a lot of looking found this one. Looking forward to see how much improved the throttle response is.

    Screenshot 2019-01-23 at 19.06.18.png
    Sales Blurb to explain why.

    All late-model European cars these days are using ECU controlled solenoid-type diverter valves. This is a good concept because the valve can react very quickly and it only opens when it needs to.

    However, there are some problems with these valves. Since they first appeared on VAG vehicles in 2006, there has been at least 5 different revisions owing to reliability issues. Without going into detail of the revision history, the latest revision C found on the Mk7 R and 8V S3 can still be improved upon. Whilst it is stronger and leaks less than previous revisions, it is still limited by its operating principle – being a direct solenoid operated valve, it can only operate in two states, open or shut. Unfortunately, cars don’t typically operate in two states – your accelerator isn’t a switch, and progressive relief of boost pressure during partial throttle closure is not possible with the factory diverter.


    Common OE Problem
    The plastic piston-type leaks far more than most people realise (by design, not from wear), and doesn’t always close after a high-boost gear shift.

    Additionally, because the factory diverter has a long stroke and weak return spring, its ability to open and close reliably at high boost or in the presence of friction caused by oil gunk is compromised.

    The DV+ addresses the factory valve problems with a very simple and elegant solution. Keeping the factory solenoid retains all the benefits of the stock system, and replacing the valve parts with indestructable metal components ensures strength and reliability no matter how much boost you run.

    That's not all. Rather than using the solenoid to directly actuate the valve, we’ve introduced a unique “pilot-actuation” system. This means the solenoid controls the air pressure that is used to open and close the piston, so it doesn't matter how much boost you push through it, the DV+ will open and close reliably without ever exceeding the solenoid’s capability.

    This feature also improves on the factory system by opening the valve progressively in response to boost pressure, so it only opens as much as required to get the job done (the factory valve simply opens and shuts, it cannot partially open if boost pressure is low), resulting in better throttle response.
     
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  8. Yellow fr

    Yellow fr Full Member

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    Sounds and looks good


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  9. theoldboy

    theoldboy The Beast from the East

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    Thanks mate, looking forward to testing it all out at Cadwell Park.
     
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  10. Maypack

    Maypack Ambassador for Cumberland Sausage

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    That car just keeps on improving.
     
  11. theoldboy

    theoldboy The Beast from the East

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    Thanks @Maypack, this is still very much WORK IN PROGRESS, Many more plans just need to save up more cash.
     
  12. Maypack

    Maypack Ambassador for Cumberland Sausage

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    Credit where it is due @theoldboy. I’d love to have the chance to ride in it someday, the difference between my Stock Cupra and yours needs to be experienced
     
  13. theoldboy

    theoldboy The Beast from the East

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    Next meet we will put some time aside, but I am watching Kindig Customs and they just got a new motor.

    They just got a new engine that took over a year to build and produces 2000 bhp BUT Could reach 3,600 bhp, imagine that in a FWD car :)))))
     
  14. Maypack

    Maypack Ambassador for Cumberland Sausage

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    Get one for the beast
     
  15. theoldboy

    theoldboy The Beast from the East

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    I dont think I have enough room for all of this
    engine.jpg


    on race tune / fuel it will do 4,000 bhp but for street use its been de tuned to 2,200 bhp omg.
     
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  16. Sparkie

    Sparkie Angling Adict.

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    Great work finding a decent baffled sump.
    Probably the most important mod you needed to get done.
    Constant feed to the pick up is imperative.
    Starvation leads to a Big Bang.

    Dump valve looks a good bit of kit too.


    Badger5 Custom Map + TIP,
    3” Sustem, FMIC, Bosh 550’s,
    BC Coilovers, ARB’s +loads more.
     
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  17. theoldboy

    theoldboy The Beast from the East

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    Trouble is there is not a lot of choice around but glad I found something and managed to get the price down as well which is always good.

    It's going in for an MOT,
    • Lights to be re-aligned (I think since it was lowered the lights have not adjusted up yet),
    • All this kit fitted,
    • Spark Plugs to be checked and replaced if required
    • Upgraded coil packs going in (and I will keep the old ones just in case one fails on a track day).
    Then we should be ready for the 2019 race season.

    I am looking at various multi function displays (like the one you have in your air vent) but still undecided whats best, I still fancy the old MK1 3 Pod holder on the A pillar with Oil Temp, Boost and one other but there is no rush for that yet.
     
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  18. Sparkie

    Sparkie Angling Adict.

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    Excellent.
    We have to team up again.
    Pillar pod or air vent pods are a good investment.
    It’s handy knowing the real temps under the bonnet.
    Oil especially.
    I’m going to fit an oil cooler this year having seen my temps.


    Badger5 Custom Map + TIP,
    3” Sustem, FMIC, Bosh 550’s,
    BC Coilovers, ARB’s +loads more.
     
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  19. theoldboy

    theoldboy The Beast from the East

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    Looking forward to meeting up again.

    Got Snetterton in Feb and starting to think about Bedford on the18th March or Blyton Park on the 20th but nothing booked yet.
     
  20. Legojon

    Legojon [Zero] days since last car mod.
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    Couldn't see it in the write up. You fitting the optional oil level sensor? Can't wait to see your feedback on the gfb+. Especially how / if it noticeablely changes the feel of the throttle.
     

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