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MK1 LCR died on me...

Discussion in 'Leon Mk1' started by DOLBY, May 15, 2019.

  1. DOLBY

    DOLBY Cheshire Cat is grinning.

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    Hi

    Need some advice. I had recently been getting the love back for my car (had it 14 years now), and was treating myself to a few gubbins.

    It had a new map on it a couple days ago but the tuner couldn't get into the ECU as Revo had bamboozled it. So the car was dead (well until the tuner managed to bypass Revos block. The car made great power 309 bhp.

    Anyway next day got a new full exhaust and was driving home from Sheffield (2 hour journey) I pulled off at Kettering and the centre roof light came on for some reason. Then blasting down the motorway there was defo a change in whoosh sound (it seemed to be louder but car was still boosting hard?)

    Got to car wash for a clean and I definitely heard loud running water from inside the car going somewhere...then it died on me. Car still cranks like it wants to start but engine defo doesn't want to. I have battery light and exclamation light (traction control or engine management) so had to get the car towed home .

    Anyone have any ideas what it could be? Really hope it's not cambelt even tho it was changed 18 months back
     
  2. Legojon

    Legojon Will work for TTE420
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    If you heard loud running water. You checked the coolant level? Battery light always comes on anyway. Engine management light you'll need to get scanned. I thought warranty on cambelts was 2 years for independent garages and 5 years for Seat. So you might be alright there.
     
  3. theoldboy

    theoldboy Modified is best
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    Legojon and Sparkie like this.
  4. DOLBY

    DOLBY Cheshire Cat is grinning.

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    I'm thinking I have either got water on ECU or its cambelt :(
     
  5. Sparkie

    Sparkie Angling Adict.

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    Can you get it scanned?


    Badger5 Custom Map + TIP,
    3”Custom exhaust, FMIC, Bosh 550’s, BC Coilovers, ARB’s +loads more.
     
  6. DOLBY

    DOLBY Cheshire Cat is grinning.

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    Yeh but not until Monday at least as the place that services my car will be shut. Hate to be negative but was only the other day I thought 'hmm I better check when I need to do this cambelt again' and tbh all the symptoms point to that.

    Hopefully might be a crank sensor but who knows.
     
  7. Connorg115

    Connorg115 Full Member

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    Where did you get your exhaust done in sheffield?

    Get it scanned with VCDS, should cut out the majority of the guess work!
     
  8. mty12345

    mty12345 Senior Member

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    upper cambelt cover unclips enough to have a peak in, or get someone to turn it over with the oil cap open and see if you can see the camshaft turning.

    On a side note, at 307bhp, i take it you have forged rods?
     
  9. Sparkie

    Sparkie Angling Adict.

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    I was surprised at 307 brake too. I presume you’re forged, maybe hybrid turbo and all stage 2 mods? What torque figures are you producing?


    Badger5 Custom Map + TIP,
    3”Custom exhaust, FMIC, Bosh 550’s, BC Coilovers, ARB’s +loads more.
     
  10. DOLBY

    DOLBY Cheshire Cat is grinning.

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    Yes I have forged engine and V3 manifold
     
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  11. DOLBY

    DOLBY Cheshire Cat is grinning.

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    I got my exhaust at Cobra. I had a full exhaust from them about 5 years ago but was getting an awful rattle .I think it was the rear box baffles had come loose.

    Car is forged with V3 Manifold. Torque is very low ATM due to 2 things. I was getting wheel spin on rollers and I need to change spark plugs and do PCV delete before he cranks up the torque

    I was thinking as the engine is forged and it IS the cambelt will the damage still be bad (but not as bad?)
     
  12. Gokiwi64

    Gokiwi64 Geriatric Member

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    Cambelt (if it is that) failure does not care if you have a forged engine or not , once the valves collect the pistons its still gonna hurt the engine in an expensive way.
     
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  13. DOLBY

    DOLBY Cheshire Cat is grinning.

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    Yep totally agree. But I think what I need to know us can an engine be rebuilt after cambelt snapping?

    I'm really angry as I'm meticulous with my car always have been. Hence the Rods in the first place. I suppose I'm just hoping the forged side won't need rebuilding haha.

    I really don't want to be getting another engine as I know how well looked after mine was (having all the best parts and super 99 from day one etc
     
  14. Zardoz

    Zardoz Full Member

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    Hope you get good news on Monday, fingers crossed it's not the timing belt that's gone.
     
  15. Legojon

    Legojon Will work for TTE420
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    Did you change the cambelt yourself? The engine can be rebuilt... just depends on the £££ of damage... if it is belt.
     
  16. Sparkie

    Sparkie Angling Adict.

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    Fingers crossed it’s not the belt.


    Badger5 Custom Map + TIP,
    3”Custom exhaust, FMIC, Bosh 550’s, BC Coilovers, ARB’s +loads more.
     
  17. Gokiwi64

    Gokiwi64 Geriatric Member

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    In most cases the engine can be rebuilt, there are caveats of course...best case a valve or 2 have smacked the top of the piston and just bent , so new piston/s new valves and guides and away you go, worst case the heads of a valve have snapped off , got punched around the cylinder and then got spat out the exhaust port or jammed in the piston then you could be looking at a head and block. It all just depends ...but then fingers crossed its something daft.
     
  18. DOLBY

    DOLBY Cheshire Cat is grinning.

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    Hello chaps

    Small update ironically I called out RAC to check the car last week and low and behold it started which is typical...so a few things that have been ruled out.

    I had 2 fault codes that popped up

    • 18010
    +30 voltage permanent.

    • 17515
    02 sensor bank 1.

    I phoned garage and he ruled none of these could cause the cutting out. The first code 18010 according to forums is normally intermittent but mine is permanent.

    I went to the car yesterday and the battery is 100% dead. I had to use my key to open it manually. It's a new battery btw and it's been standing now 2 weeks.

    Should also add I'm getting a red light flicking on dash next to stereo (literally nothing on internet about this) and my key fob has a red light whenever I press the buttons.

    Wth is up with my car? It doesn't help that people (and my garage) keep telling me to get rid as it's old etc now
     
  19. DOLBY

    DOLBY Cheshire Cat is grinning.

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    Sorry the second code is 17510
     
  20. Gokiwi64

    Gokiwi64 Geriatric Member

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    18010/P1602/005634 - Power Supply B+ Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
    Possible Causes
    Cables on the Battery were removed
    Battery weak (voltage)
    Generator Malfunction
    Possible Solutions
    Check Battery Cables
    Check/Replace Battery
    Check/Replace Generator
    Special Notes
    If multiple Control Module have Power Supply Faults stored, it's most likely to be one common Problem like the ones shown above. Otherwise when only one or two Control Modules have such Codes stored you better start searching at the individual Power Supply of these Modules.
    Terminal 30 means unswitched battery power that is supplied even when the ignition is off. This is not referring to any physical terminal numbered 30.

    P1102

    17510

    Bank 1, probe 1 heating element circuit short to positive

    - Check Lambda probe heating before catalyst
     

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