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New car home treatment plan

Discussion in 'Car Care and Detailing' started by Forestfire, May 8, 2019.

  1. Forestfire

    Forestfire Active Member

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    Would really appreciate some advice on protecting my new car paint and alloys.

    Picked up my Leon ST in desire red today.

    I priced the csl from techniq and they want 800 euro to apply. This was beyond my already streached budget so looking at doing as much as I can at home.

    Read the pdf guide on detailing and sticking to my original plan for the moment.

    1) Full car wash, auto glym with wool and microfibre mitts. I also have a karcher k4 but not sure if this is advised to use at this stage.

    2) light hand polish with Meguiar’s G17216EU Ultimate Compound Colour & Clarity Restorer.

    3) apply Sonax cc36 pre treatment, base and gloss coats.

    Any advice on how good or bad this plan is and any suggestions would be great.

    Thanks
     
  2. Jimbobcook

    Jimbobcook MK2 Cupra R Stock+
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    I like detailing but I'm no professional, for me I'd say as you have a brand new car you shouldn't need to use any abrasive polishes like ultimate compound which is designed to bring paint back to life.

    I've not used sonax before either sorry I'm not much use but you can get ceramic coats for less than 800 easily. Which should last a few years at least.

    I'd personally make sure before you seal the paint you've done a full decontamination so citrus wash, snow foam, 2 bucket wash, iron fallout remover, tar spot remover and clay bar then put your sealant on.

    Like I said I'm no professional lol @Sharpy or @Legojon may have better ideas.

    Hope it helps
     
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  3. Legojon

    Legojon I only wanted a remap
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    Good advice above. I think the way to think of it is to work backwards. When you put the sealant on, you are effectively freezing the paintwork in whatever state it's currently in. If it's brand new, you'd hope that's immaculate. But if whilst it was at the dealership the yts kid gave it a wash every morning. It could be full of swirls already. So firstly, I'd assess the condition of the paintwork. If it is full of dealer wash swirls, maybe approach them about fixing that up for you. But as above, you don't need to polish perfect paintwork.
     
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  4. Sharpy

    Sharpy Active Member

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    Why the guys above say, when we got out ateca it was almost new but still needed some correction as it had been washed with what I assume was a Brillo pad.

    So it depends what condition is and go from there.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  5. Forestfire

    Forestfire Active Member

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    Thanks All for the responses,

    I will list all the steps here with my comments of what I can/Cannot do.
    Also I picked up the car yesterday, and will be a few days before I get to this.
    This is why I thought a light polish would be of benefit as it will be "sealed" after this


    1) Citrus wash (Do not currently have. Is this separate to point 3)
    2) Snow foam (I have this:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B17M4QO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
    3) Bucket wash (I will try to do this as best as possible, but currently do not have grit guards and bucks will be what is available, but will stick to wash and rinse bucket and plenty of rinsing with hands)
    4) Iron fallout remover (Do not have, is it important for new car also?)
    5) Tar spot remover (Will the clay bar with G3 Pro 7193 Rapid Detailer but enough on new car?)
    6) Clay bar (Yes I have this :dance:)
    7) Light Polish Meguiar’s G17216EU Ultimate Compound Colour & Clarity Restorer. (After paint review??)

    Then put your sealant on.
    SONAX 02369410 Profiline Ceramic Coating CC36 Set

    1) Application Prep (Will this also cover some of the points above?)
    2) Basecoat
    3) Gloss Sealant


    Again any tips correction or advice welcome
     
  6. Legojon

    Legojon I only wanted a remap
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    I personally wouldn't clay a new car. It will introduce micro scratches at best, deep scratches at worst which you will then have to work harder to polish out. If you really want to use fallout remover (I rarely do) carpro is the best I've found. The lemon one stinks slightly less. But I blasted my 8 year old paintwork with fallout remover and none of it turned purple.

    Final thing is, if your putting a ceramic coating on, it should really be done in a garage (or indoors). I've washed and polished my car, gone inside the door to get the wax and come out and there's already a layer of dust over the bonnet. If you do this outside, you will seal in dust, plant life and bugs.
     
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  7. Rainman

    Rainman Active Member

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    Me personaly i use the collonite 476s and Fusso soft 99 king of gloss. both of them very good ( they even have good reviews in the net) and not to hard to apply them. You can have a look in the net about them for videos e.t.c
     
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  8. Jamie-g

    Jamie-g Active Member

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    No.1 don’t clay the car.

    https://anachem-automotive.com/

    I use all this stuff for cleaning their fallout remover is the best I’ve ever used and all their stuff is top notch for the price. He works with a top detailer in Northern Ireland to keep tweeking his products. Introductory bundle is a good place to start.

    When I got my car brand new I coated with fireball nano coat. It needs to be inside for 24hrs after to cure.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fireball-Ultimate-Nano-Coat-Super-Hydrophobic-Nano-Coating-250mL-FB-15/183713843630?_mwBanner=1&ul_ref=http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=2&pub=5575376664&toolid=10001&campid=5338268676&customid=bdfc15d9-1cec-4648-bc07-ba9cfb3892b2&lgeo=1&item=183713843630&srcrot=710-53481-19255-0&rvr_id=1964907602290&rvr_ts=9d23ab9316a0ab19d2a6a0b0ff90d94f&ul_noapp=true&pageci=6c6856b9-5461-4be1-a4e5-bd489afdd65f

    Now when I wash ever weekend. (2 bucket, snow foam and whatever else.) I then use gtechniq c2v3 after drying. It’s so easy used and leaves a great shine. https://www.shopnshine.co.uk/gtechn...3oG3D5W3KJii3pfVhXzwDo-WOBhaHgKMaAkNDEALw_wcB

    3ADA06C3-A971-4BBE-94A8-443A55A2213B.jpeg Car always looks good after in my opinion and it’s so easy washed.

    Hope this helps.
     
  9. KernelOkey

    KernelOkey Active Member

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    After any polish (if it isnt a primer/polish) you should always wipe the car with IPA before applying any wax or coating :)
     
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  10. ChrisM75

    ChrisM75 Active Member

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    IPA is ok, but even the ones that say they are pure usually have some oils in them. I use Gyeon Prep, which is better, if a little more expensive.

    Personally im happy to use the mid-price ceramic home kits like C-Quartz or Gyeon one/pure/mohs. You just need to use bodyshop safe polishes first and wipe down with Prep. My tip for using them is use a brand new good quality microfibre cloth to remove, and never use that cloth again for anything else on the car exterior.
     
  11. Forestfire

    Forestfire Active Member

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    Okay the sonax cc36 has arrived today.
    IMG_20190514_213703.jpg

    Car is 1 week old and paint, to my untrained eyes, looks pretty good to be honest.

    At this stage I thinking of just a snow foam soak, standard shampoo wash and then onto the sonax prep, base coat and gloss.

    It seems the claying and polish are not recommended on new car, unless there is a reason to use them.

    The citrus and iron clean not planning at the moment.

    Tar removal, again not planning unless there is visable tar to be seen.

    What's the worst that can happen :whistle:
    It will ware off in a year anyway if for some reason anything get trapped underneat. Will just ensure each panel it closely inspected before applying.

    It will be better than the last car got washed about twice a year:runaway:
     
  12. ChrisM75

    ChrisM75 Active Member

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    You can polish a new car, but use a very fine bodywork safe polish, you shouldn't need to use anything more aggressive anyway. High end manufacturers polish their cars before delivery, some even wet and dry the paint in some areas as well, before polishing. Ive done this myself to an entire car, but not a brand new one.
     
  13. vectra

    vectra Active Member

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    I put carpro CQUK on my last car, but after about 18 months I decided ceramic was not for me.
    My current car gets maintained with Soft99 products which to me are perfectly good enough, and not having any risks of going wrong like Ceramic can.
     
  14. ChrisM75

    ChrisM75 Active Member

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    Ceramic is funny. It is very water repellent, but I find oily dirt sticks more. Older ceramics gave a very cold look as well, which some people don't like, especially on darker colours. Modern ones are much better though.
     
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  15. JonnyG

    JonnyG Active Member

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    It would be better to give both of these two a go IMHO before applying the Sonax if you haven't done them before, especially the iron fallout remover. The reason being that quite often new cars travel/are stored in car storage areas close to railways on their transport from factory to dealer. and can pick up a fair amount of iron contamination.
     
  16. ChrisM75

    ChrisM75 Active Member

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    Ceramics are hard work up front with an easier time going forward. You really need to prep the paint properly first, even with the easier to use products like Cancoat or the CC36.

    Im getting old and lazy, so not sure I can be bothered with applying ceramic now. I tend to use Gyeon Wetcoat now. It has all the look and beading, but less durability. The advantage being that its a 5 minute job when washing.
     
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