New MAF not clearing codes.

[krisby]

As per my other posts, I bought a 2000 Tolly Tdi a few weeks ago, it has been gutless from the get go.

I replaced the air filter, no change, had Autopool service it, asked for oil, oil and fuel filters and glo plugs (though not sure they did the glo plugs). They said the MAF code was up, and reset it, but it came back on, so suggested a new MAF.

I got a new MAF and fitted it last week, I finally got my new VAG405 today so read the computer and reset the MAF code. Went for a drive to see if any different, alas still gutless.

Got home and read computer again, but the MAF code still up, P1144 and P1557.

Oh, and I did a 10k Boost clean on the weekend, a fair bit of smoke came out but not as much as I was expecting.

Anyway, just wondering what to do now. The garage supposedly check all pipes etc so there shouldn't be any boost leaks (come to think of it, don't think I've noticed the turbo spooling the last few days).

So was thinking of getting the garage to fit a new N75 when they do my bushes, if they ever come back with a quote.

If not, anyone got a reasonably priced SEAT specialist around Langley, Bucks?

 

[krisby]

After clearing the code last night, I took it for a run, and it struggled to get to 60, but I did wonder if WOT caused an issue.
Anyway, I disconnected the MAF on my way to dropping my daughter at school, no change in power, i.e. still slow.
Cleared the codes before my drive to work, it felt immediately better, boosting, more power, so I just took it easy, no WOT and didn't go above 3000rpm, felt great, but I bet if I gave it some it will go into limp mode again.
All this time I didn't realize it was going to limp, I just thought it was slow and something else was wrong.
So I'm getting 5 (count 'em) bushes replaced, I'll get them to check if indeed the N75 or actuator isn't working, but any other suggestions would be appreciated, I just want to drive the car with the power it should have.

 

[krisby]

Got under the car this morning, tried freeing up the actuator but couldn't get it to budge, but then I struggled to get any purchase on it too, so hopefully when I get the bushes done I can get the guy to try and tackle it for me too, his arms look smaller than mine so he might be more successful.

Also had something go f-twanng the other day, checked it this morning and found the air hose that runs down the side of the timing belt to the front behind the headlights had popped off, has actually been rubbing on one of pulleys, fortunately not all the way through. Fitted it and tightened the caesar clip, will hopefully stay on.

Something else I decided to check was the engine breather hose, as there was evidence of it leaking, but the hose itself appears to be fine, my guess would be that it is the O ring on the end of it, is it possible to get these on their own instead of the whole pipe? all 6 inches of it.

Cheers

 

[andycupra]

id be looking at the boost pipes, especially to and around the N75.

garages cant be trusted to have checked properly.

 

[krisby]

Just realized the MAF code is short to ground, which suggests the MAF is not at fault, but the wiring to it or the fuse.

I immediate wiring leading to it appears to be ok, though would need testing with a multimeter. Also the fuse, well ALL my fuses appeared to be ok, though I may have to remove the fuse cage to make sure all are wired at the back.

Does short to ground suggest anything else?

 

[krisby]

I have googled and googled and googled the short to ground issue for the MAF, there are some explanations, most of which are not helpful, people offering help explaining limp mode instead of actually helping to diagnose what is causing the MAF error.

In my case I have replaced the MAF, checked fuses, all vac lines checked, connected some pipes that were not connected (air intake), but the MAF error comes back straight away, even with car not running, which definitely indicates problem not relating to the hundreds of people in many many forums suggesting boost, turbo, intercooler, N75 etc etc causing this error.

So from this I can only conclude it is wiring, I removed the fuse cage this morning, fuse ok, wiring all ok. Unfortunately I do not have a multimeter so am unable to test MAF plug, but it is plugged in correctly, though does look like it has been forced off previously. I guess I can't tell for sure until I can find someone with a multimeter, but, now this is the crucial part, if the plug tests ok, what else would cause this short to ground error, if anything.

I notice my airbox breather pipe is missing, is it necessary and what effect does it have? However, this can't be related as error comes up with engine not running, but still wondering what effect this has.

cheers

 

[Seatmann]

Is yours the 90 or 110 bhp? Do you know which engine code it is? i.e. AGR, AFN, ALH etc it's on the top of the timing belt cover.

Good maf info

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/maf-faq-tdi.htm

 

[krisby]

AHF 110.

Thanks for the link, but I already understand all that, I'm trying to understand the meaning of short to ground. Does it mean, ONLY mean, that the ECU can not see it, i.e. because it is faulty, because it is not plugged in or because of a wiring issue.

There are many other errors thrown up that indicate MAF errors (amongst other things), sometimes it is other failures causing MAF errors, but they seem to be specific codes, and often (atleast on other forums from my Google search) people always suggest a boost error or N75 or coking etc error when a 17552 error is reported, but this is a short to ground, it occurs with the engine off, therefore boost, too much or lack of, is not the cause.

 

[krisby]

Assuming the MAF in a 1.8SE is the same, I will have a look in the morning, and remove it from the wifes car and see if that helps. I am hoping I haven't received a new MAF that is DOA, though if that were the case, it would be the simplest resolution at this time, I'm not sure I want to pay an auto electrician to go hunting for a problem that may not be electrical.

 

[Seatmann]

If it was a boost issue the fault code would be stored though but if the code you have is to do with the maf being short to ground then it's obviously a fault with the maf or wiring I would've thought. As for limp mode that's when your giving the car beans uphill etc and the power suddenly dies and comes back when you restart the engine but from what you're saying the car's permanently low on power so I don't think it's a boost issue and besides it would have a code for boost deviation, low boost or overboost. Is your ecu nice and dry too, mine was soaked through when I first got my car and some of the pins were shorting out inside giving a fault for the tps being short to ground.

 

[krisby]

That's what I thought, I had a quick peak yesterday at removing the rain cover for the ECU but ran out of time, I might try today, after I have looked at the boot and MAF.
Thanks for reassurance too.

 

[krisby]

Checked the codes on the wifes MAF, all fine, so chucked in my car and it threw up the same code, so either the plug/cable has a fault or the ECU needs looking at.

Hopefully I get the chance to have a look after work one night this week.

 

[Vasily87]

Did you check for moisture btw, let us know how it goes?

 

[krisby]

yeah, dryzabone. Tested with a multimeter too, and found no voltage on pin 2 getting to the MAF, so I'm gonna get an auto sparky to rewire the harness plug. Just having problems getting the time to book one, and still unboxing after moving house last weekend so I doubt I'll get the chance in the morning. Will have to get a mobile guy to come to work next week I think.

 

[Vasily87]

could some one not tell you which pin in the ecu this goes to and just run one yourself loosely to test it out?

 

[Seatmann]

I contacted haynes technical department when I was having issues with the temp gauge and they were really helpful, they told me exactly which wires were which and where they all went including two that go to the ecu, they told me which pins the wires went to and what colour they were so if you're stuck you could try emailing them.

 

[krisby]

could some one not tell you which pin in the ecu this goes to and just run one yourself loosely to test it out?

1 3 and 4 are ecu apparently, all tested ok for ohms, but pin 2 is dead as a dodo, no voltage and no resistance on or off, hence it is not working, and I need an auto sparky, I don't have the know how nor the inclination to find where the cable goes to and how to rewire it, I would rather pay someone and know it is done right.

The problem is finding the time to get someone to look at it at the moment.

 

[Seatmann]

It's all in that link I posted, it has all the connections and where they go and what they shouild read, if you look at it it says which type of maf is which and what sort of age of car had what.

 

[krisby]

Ah bugger, why did you have to point me back at the link again? Now I'm really confused. I don't have a pin 5, but I do have a pin 1, but the link says the other way round. it is labelled on the plug and the multimeter tests suggest the same, so I don't know what to think now.

Auto sparky it is.

 

[Seatmann]

Well you have the older engine but not as old as the mk3 so it aint that one, I think yours is the 5 pin jobby where pin one isn't used but the easiest way is to check your part number against what's there, I'm on a 2000 plate and mine's the 5 pin but one is just a blank so it only uses the 4 wires, so I'm thinking pin 1 ain't used because our engines are basically the ALH, pin 2 is the 12v supply from the 109 relay which is in the fuse box below the steering column, the next pin should go to ground, the next to pin 50 on the ecu and the last one to pin 52 on the ecu. I'm pretty sure that's how ours will be set up.