Nightmare of a day -getting know where fast

sneak

Guest
Thought I would try and do the front discs and pads today on the LCR...bloody nightmare.

Managed to get the pins out for the pads, on the drivers side, and get the outside pad out. Went to try and get the inside pad out, but failed due the size of the lip on the disc.

I thought...I know if I can get the caliper undone and taken off, the pad should fall out - could I get either of the two bolts off which hold the caliper on... could I heck as like.

In my wisdom, I thought that if I could release the metal brake hose, as it shows on Elsawin, it would give me more space to try and get the retaining bolts out. I started to unscrew the nut to release the metal pipe and the plastic coating on the pipe started to come away - at this point I started getting worried thinking that maybe I was twisting the pipe - so I stopped. I tightened it up a little, but now there seems to be brake fluid seaping from under the nut area - do you think I have recked the pipe, or have I just loosened it from unscrewing it?

Anyway I managed to get lend a cordless impact wrench, as it was getting dark I didn't have time to give it a go. Hopefully I will be able to get the calipers off with it tomorrow. Don't know what I will do about the pipe tho.

Any comments?

Nightmare, nightmare and nightmare.

Regards

P.s. When you are stood there looking straight at the caliper, from the roadside, do you screw right towards the front of the car to loosen bolts etc? I hope so because that was the way I was going.
 
Aug 24, 2007
800
0
nearside or off side wheel ?

left is loose on both sides I think.

Too many ciders lol
 
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Mitchy

TTRS
Oct 12, 2004
2,310
0
Thought I would try and do the front discs and pads today on the LCR...bloody nightmare.

Managed to get the pins out for the pads, on the drivers side, and get the outside pad out. Went to try and get the inside pad out, but failed due the size of the lip on the disc.

I thought...I know if I can get the caliper undone and taken off, the pad should fall out - could I get either of the two bolts off which hold the caliper on... could I heck as like.

In my wisdom, I thought that if I could release the metal brake hose, as it shows on Elsawin, it would give me more space to try and get the retaining bolts out. I started to unscrew the nut to release the metal pipe and the plastic coating on the pipe started to come away - at this point I started getting worried thinking that maybe I was twisting the pipe - so I stopped. I tightened it up a little, but now there seems to be brake fluid seaping from under the nut area - do you think I have recked the pipe, or have I just loosened it from unscrewing it?

Anyway I managed to get lend a cordless impact wrench, as it was getting dark I didn't have time to give it a go. Hopefully I will be able to get the calipers off with it tomorrow. Don't know what I will do about the pipe tho.

Any comments?

Nightmare, nightmare and nightmare.

Regards

P.s. When you are stood there looking straight at the caliper, from the roadside, do you screw right towards the front of the car to loosen bolts etc? I hope so because that was the way I was going.


Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Remember that and you wont go far wrong.

Because the bolts that hold the calliper in are facing away from you, you need to slacken the bolts off towards the back of the car, (On the passenger side), and to the front (on the drivers side)

I had the same problem as you a couple of weeks ago, the pad just wasn't coming out no matter how hard i tried. The torque on the calliper bolts are extremely tight and i could not get enough leverage on them to undo them.

I then went back to the pad, and managed to get a screwdriver in between it and the disc and managed after about 45mins to pull it out.

What a nightmare, but i suppose thats what happens when you leave them in there too long.
 
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GRD

Active Member
May 11, 2003
167
0
Sheffield
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To get the pad out you need to depress the two cylinders in the caliper. If the lip is in the way you need to use a screwdriver or something to push the pad away from the disk (don't dent your disks!) - this will compress the cylinders (pots) and give you enough room to get the pad out.

If the lip on your disks is that big I would replace those too!
 

Willie

LCR Track car
Aug 6, 2004
8,939
1
Sunny Scotland
To get the pad out you need to depress the two cylinders in the caliper. If the lip is in the way you need to use a screwdriver or something to push the pad away from the disk (don't dent your disks!) - this will compress the cylinders (pots) and give you enough room to get the pad out.

If the lip on your disks is that big I would replace those too!
As above with the cylinders.

If your close to denting your discs your going at this way way too hard.

The caliper bolts are fitted with a thread locking compound, if your removing these you need to have new ones of thread locking sealant at hand.

If you have seapage from the hose and you can't work out yourself what you've done then its time to call in the professionals. You sound like your getting a bit over your head.
Did you use the guide on here?
It's 95% bullet proof.
 

sneak

Guest
Managed to change the disc and pads, took me hours. In hindsight it wasn't that difficult, but I don't think I will attempt it again in the near future.

Managed to get the caliper bolts off with a long wrench, excellent for the leverage. I would reccomend a long wrench if anyone else is planning to attempt to change the discs.

Re-tightened up the metal brake pipe and it seems to have stopped leaking, but I will have to keep an eye on it. Does anyone know how to replace the metal pipes, do you need a brake flaring kit or something to shape the pipe?

The inside pads were a bitch to put into the caliper, there seems to be a metal lip at the bottom and the top of the caliper.

When I got around to doing the passenger side, I took the wheel off and the disc was loose as the retaining screw had rusted or sheared of at some point. Don't know how long the screw had been gone. I tried to drill it out but couldn't get all of it out. I then tried to put a screw into the space, and it snapped. In the end I had to just hold it in place with the wheel nuts.Do do you thing it will be alright, at least for the time being?

How do you know whether the brakes need bleeding and how do you do it?

Later

David
 

dholdi

Active Member
Jul 3, 2008
931
4
Preston
Does anyone know how to replace the metal pipes, do you need a brake flaring kit or something to shape the pipe?

You may be able to get a replacement from seat, which would be preformed. If not most motor factors will make one up for you, but it will most likely be from copper and straight so you will have to carefully bend it to shape yourself, sounds daugnting, but copper is very pliable and its fairly easy if you take your time.

When I got around to doing the passenger side, I took the wheel off and the disc was loose as the retaining screw had rusted or sheared of at some point. Don't know how long the screw had been gone. I tried to drill it out but couldn't get all of it out. I then tried to put a screw into the space, and it snapped. In the end I had to just hold it in place with the wheel nuts.Do do you thing it will be alright, at least for the time being?

It will be fine with the wheel holding it in place.

How do you know whether the brakes need bleeding

When you press the pedal and it sinks and you say "oh sh!t" ;)
 
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vwbassett

Joined the Dark Side
Aug 13, 2007
963
53
Surrey
The retaining screw is just a there to aid refitting of the disc. If everything looks straight and true with the wheels on and the studs tightened to the correct torque you should be ok as they take all the strain of the disc and wheel but for re assurance and allignment i would try and get it rectified.

As said above you will know if the brakes need bleeding they will work or wont.
 

Willie

LCR Track car
Aug 6, 2004
8,939
1
Sunny Scotland
I'd be very very very wary of that pipe.
To be sure, start your car. Dry up around the area of the pipe that was leaking.
Depress the brake pedal for 1 minute + and check if it has leaked.
The disc screw is only there to help you when your putting the wheel back on, it's not structural.
 
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