Thank you.. I'm keeping my eye on eBay at the moment, they seem to be around £40-£50 I need 2 so could be costly if i buy new... I also want to make sure that I change the correct part.
Jordan
Passenger Door Unlock problems
- Thread starter Masterkm
- Start date
Thank you.. I'm keeping my eye on eBay at the moment, they seem to be around £40-£50 I need 2 so could be costly if i buy new... I also want to make sure that I change the correct part.
Jordan
Nope, the front door page is located here:
http://www.partsbase.org/seat/leon-leon-4-le-eu-2010-83730-inner-actuator-door-lock/
inner actuator; door lock; front
1 1P1837015 door lock; left lhd 1
1 1P1837016 door lock; right lhd 1
1 1P2837015 door lock; left rhd 1
1 1P2837016 door lock; right rhd
I'd recommend confirming the part number with a dealer by using your VIN. I read my email reply when I quoted the door lock for my car and was told that the lock for my car is usually without the "B" code.
My right rear lock code was 1P0839016, this code is also printed on the lock but you'd have to probably remove the door card to see the code on the lock, possibly even remove the lock to see the part number. I don't have my old lock with me now but I can take a look tomorrow and let you know where the part number is located.
It might be worth me calling the dealers up and see what they say then... I just thought it was cheeky asking them for the part numbers for the locks then not buying them, i didn't know if they were reluctant todo that.
Any help greatly appreciated tho!
jordan
David @ Sere would be able to confirm the correct part numbers, you could try posting in the dealer forum: http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=249 or contact David directly for a quote,/part confirmation:
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/member.php?u=27274
Good luck, hope you get some answers. Just read your post in the dealer section, might be worth adding your model car and year
Just to confirm your issue, you can open the doors from inside but you are unable to unlock the doors from outside once locked and unlocked with the key fob, right? Just wanted to confirm that you have the same issue I had: I could lock the doors with the key fob but the rear door would not open if I double clicked the open key on the key fob. I could also hear the door lock clicking when I pressed the key fob meaning that the issue wasn't related to a potential wiring issue or a problem with the central locking unit.
I've put that it's a seat Leon fr 2010? I didn't want to add my reg Plate.
Yeah, I can unlock the doors from the inside, but they won't from the outside once it's been locked.
I've read all the threads and it does sound like a faulty lock.
Yeah, I can unlock the doors from the inside, but they won't from the outside once it's been locked.
I've read all the threads and it does sound like a faulty lock.
The part numbers I've just got from the local dealer...
IP2837015
IP0839015
But none come up on eBay..
IP2837015
IP0839015
But none come up on eBay..
You might not find that many on eBay, depends on how many models of your car have been broken for spares. I decided to buy new when I had my lock issue, I didn't want to risk a used part that could potentially have the same problem after a few weeks/months/years.
I'm guessing your locks were around £250 new?
They quoted around £330 for 2 new locks... it just seems a lot of money.
I do think that new ones would be a better option to prevent it happening again!
Does it seem to be the passenger ones all the time?
Jordan
Ouch! That's more than I imagined. Not sure if the driver's door locks fail as often as the passenger doors but it seems that most people complaining about faulty locks are passenger doors. I was not happy when my o/s lock had problems, I hardly use the rear doors. I was wondering if that might have been a reason why the door lock failed - lack of use. I also had to replace the ABS pump on my car, that cost over £630. I was very close to selling the car. If these issues are becomming more and more common, it makes me wonder why isn't SEAT/VAG doing something about it
Ouch! That's more than I imagined. Not sure if the driver's door locks fail as often as the passenger doors but it seems that most people complaining about faulty locks are passenger doors. I was not happy when my o/s lock had problems, I hardly use the rear doors. I was wondering if that might have been a reason why the door lock failed - lack of use. I also had to replace the ABS pump on my car, that cost over £630. I was very close to selling the car. If these issues are becomming more and more common, it makes me wonder why isn't SEAT/VAG doing something about it
WOW thats a lot!
I've ended up ordering some from eBay, i managed t find some for £45 each, I think the rear one is prefixed with the letter D at the end... i was also searching with ip last time and i think its 1p at the start of the code!
they should hopefully be here at the end of the week!
Did you fit yours your self? is it pretty straight forward job? I ready about the cables needing adjusting...
Jordan
That's a decent price.
Yeah I fitted the lock myself, overall it wasn't that bad and took around an hour and a half and I had never taken the door card off before. I spent longer on the job as I gave the window a good clean and had to adjust the cable tension.
The following links should help for the door card removal:
Rear Door: http://www.no1wok.co.uk/cupra/rdp.pdf
Front door: http://www.no1wok.co.uk/cupra/dpf.pdf
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7yM2f6aLVA
I also bought a spline socket set from eBay, the two retaining bolts for the door lock on my car is spline bolts, not torx. The door winding mechanism is attached to the door card, not the door panel, I have manual windows at the rear, removing the windoing handles is easy, just need to pinch the collar and pul towards the handle. Once you remove all the screws and have supported the glass window it might be worth reaching through the space after removing the cloth panel (before door card remova)l and try disconnect the electrical plug from the door lock because the wire is routed on the back of the door card and is held in place with some plastic tabs. If you don't disconnect the wire from the door lock first it will be hard to remove the door card as you need to lift up the door card and the wire will make it difficult if it's stll connected to the lock.
HTH
Ok, any ideas what the tool is for the locks... Took all the panels off, but can't unscrew the locks.
They are M8 triple square - don't use a Torx as it will round them off. If you don't have the correct bit I used the bit in the Screwfix set product code 15297 or I am pretty sure the cheaper Toolstation set is the same but in a black box code 56069
All sorted!
Ok just my 10p worth!
I have a 2010 leon FR..
Initially I ordered the wrong part code, if your lock isn't prefixed with a D then don't order the one that is... i learned the hard way! However, they eBay store that i got my locks from just sent me a replacement no questions asked!
I did the passenger door 1st.... you must read all the instructions, because like a typical bloke, i didn't... basically i left the window mechanism, where it was and pulled the door card off it... not realising it would make it harder to put back together, with a little messing i still managed it tho!
Also, make sure you have all the correct tools before you start, i rounded the door screws slightly, so had to use some pliers to get them off.
The rear door was pretty simple too, following the instructions above!
So far both doors now work perfectly! and cost me around £80 for the 2 locks! Seat quoted £330 for parts alone, then £60 per hour labour, so id guess around £500-£600 for them todo the job..
Hope it helps someone else!
Jordan
Ok just my 10p worth!
I have a 2010 leon FR..
Initially I ordered the wrong part code, if your lock isn't prefixed with a D then don't order the one that is... i learned the hard way! However, they eBay store that i got my locks from just sent me a replacement no questions asked!
I did the passenger door 1st.... you must read all the instructions, because like a typical bloke, i didn't... basically i left the window mechanism, where it was and pulled the door card off it... not realising it would make it harder to put back together, with a little messing i still managed it tho!
Also, make sure you have all the correct tools before you start, i rounded the door screws slightly, so had to use some pliers to get them off.
The rear door was pretty simple too, following the instructions above!
So far both doors now work perfectly! and cost me around £80 for the 2 locks! Seat quoted £330 for parts alone, then £60 per hour labour, so id guess around £500-£600 for them todo the job..
Hope it helps someone else!
Jordan
Front door won't unlock from the remote. When I solve this I will post how. I did start getting the door dismantled, but time pressure kicked in and I bottled out and reassembled. Will look again today.
Can somebody explain:
Is it a different motor that does the lock action from the one that does the unlock? If not, does the motor fail in the unlock direction while working in the lock direction?
Are the motor and the controller separate components, and if so where does each sit in the front passenger (left) door?
Thanks,
Dave
Can somebody explain:
Is it a different motor that does the lock action from the one that does the unlock? If not, does the motor fail in the unlock direction while working in the lock direction?
Are the motor and the controller separate components, and if so where does each sit in the front passenger (left) door?
Thanks,
Dave
Well, the door is an absolute pig to disassemble and reassemble. The module and motor appear to be pretty much a single unit, with a part grey, part white casing, tucked up in the corner by the lock itself.
Not sure how to get this out: is it the two exterior bolts on the end of the door? I didn't have a tool to do these.
Do any of the other doors have an identical unit that I could try in this door (like I really want to do two of these doors in a day)?
One more thing... when I disconnected the connector on the module the alarm kept going off. Can I stop this from happening?
Not sure how to get this out: is it the two exterior bolts on the end of the door? I didn't have a tool to do these.
Do any of the other doors have an identical unit that I could try in this door (like I really want to do two of these doors in a day)?
One more thing... when I disconnected the connector on the module the alarm kept going off. Can I stop this from happening?
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