PD 150 Intercooler/Tuning?

[AshFR]

Would putting an intercooler on a pd150 give it much more poke obviously along with a remap or is it not really worth doing unless you upgrade turbo as ive read somewhere that the standard turbo is only good for about 200bhp which you can see about that from a stage 1 map?

Also ive been looking at uprated clutches and not sure what to go for. Organic, Sintered, DMF or SMF? Anyone help me out? I dont want to spend a massive amount but i want something that will hold around a 200bhp map comfortably.

Thanks.

 

[towcester vag]

remap approx £200 upwards
you will have to do clutch if you go stage one
ive just fitted a helix clutch did a bit of research first
standard dualmass matched to helix pressure and centre plate with new concentric slave £700 approx
the other clutch i thought about was a sach performance with organic centre plate

 

[UncleFester]

You already have an OEM IC on a PD 150 - it's between the aircon radiator and main radiator.

 

[AshFR]

remap approx £200 upwards
you will have to do clutch if you go stage one
ive just fitted a helix clutch did a bit of research first
standard dualmass matched to helix pressure and centre plate with new concentric slave £700 approx
the other clutch i thought about was a sach performance with organic centre plate

Oh right. I want the cheapest and the best but i know i cant have both lol. £700 seems a little steep, is there any cheaper thats just as good. I found a sachs with dmf for £800 which is alot aswell tbh but i plan on keeping the car for at least a good few years anyway. Suppose i better get saving

You already have an OEM IC on a PD 150 - it's between the aircon radiator and main radiator.

Fair enough. You learn something new everyday lol.

I doubt the map wont be for a few months after ive got the car anyway so got plenty of time to save up.

 

[vroomtshh]

Standard clutch might be fine on a stage 1 map. It all depends on how you drive it, and how its been driven in the past.

 

[AshFR]

Standard clutch might be fine on a stage 1 map. It all depends on how you drive it, and how its been driven in the past.

Well the first 60k has mainly been motorwat driving. And the last 20k my brother has racked up but never been fast launches or hard accelerating so i would say the clutch should be in good condition but we will see. Maybe get stage one map on it and keep money by just incase the clutch does give up.

 

[Leon2012]

As stated, you already have a big FMIC on your PD150, but for the record, putting a bigger intercooler on a car without making other mods like a bigger turbo & injectors, would actually reduce power.

With regards to a clutch, the best option is an American Southbend 'silent' SMF, but may be out of your price range, at £975+VAT & you might not need such a good clutch if all you're going to do is do a mild power increase

 

[AshFR]

As stated, you already have a big FMIC on your PD150, but for the record, putting a bigger intercooler on a car without making other mods like a bigger turbo & injectors, would actually reduce power.

With regards to a clutch, the best option is an American Southbend 'silent' SMF, but may be out of your price range, at £975+VAT & you might not need such a good clutch if all you're going to do is do a mild power increase

Fair enough Yeah, im looking for approx 200bhp for now. Doubt the funds will let me go anymore. 200bhp is enough for now though. Got to get used to driving it at 150bhp first anyway Not a huge jump from my 125bhp 306 hdi i know but ive only ever drove 306's. First was a 1.4 though. Already had a drive in my brothers leon and feels very nice to drive. Love the steering, feels solid

 

[Leon2012]

Hi Ash,

You're looking at this in too simplistic of a way, it's not about BHP numbers, especially with diesels.

A remapped car will deliver power in a much better way, throughout the whole range than a standard car would. This is because the remap opens up the potential of the engine, plus increases boost, whereas the stock ECU map is designed for reliability, low service issues and low torque to save the clutch.

So it's not about "getting used to 150 then going to 200", as it will be a completely different car to drive with a remap (and a few other mods to get to 200).

I've not driven a standard PD150, but I've heard that they're a bit mild and gutless as standard, so I wouldn't bother getting your hopes up and then ending up with a manufacturer-restricted ECU map, as you're going to be disappointed...

It depends on what your expectation levels are, maybe your 306 is low power and a standard PD150 would impress you, but to me it'd be very boring having a standard ECU map. On my car, I literally drove it straight to be remapped on the way home from buying it...the difference was night and day...and recommend you do too!

You will more than likely need a new clutch if you remap it, so bear that into account, but it's well worth it as you'd be driving a much more driveable and enjoyable car.

 

[AshFR]

Hi Ash,

You're looking at this in too simplistic of a way, it's not about BHP numbers, especially with diesels.

A remapped car will deliver power in a much better way, throughout the whole range than a standard car would. This is because the remap opens up the potential of the engine, plus increases boost, whereas the stock ECU map is designed for reliability, low service issues and low torque to save the clutch.

So it's not about "getting used to 150 then going to 200", as it will be a completely different car to drive with a remap (and a few other mods to get to 200).

I've not driven a standard PD150, but I've heard that they're a bit mild and gutless as standard, so I wouldn't bother getting your hopes up and then ending up with a manufacturer-restricted ECU map, as you're going to be disappointed...

It depends on what your expectation levels are, maybe your 306 is low power and a standard PD150 would impress you, but to me it'd be very boring having a standard ECU map. On my car, I literally drove it straight to be remapped on the way home from buying it...the difference was night and day...and recommend you do too!

You will more than likely need a new clutch if you remap it, so bear that into account, but it's well worth it as you'd be driving a much more driveable and enjoyable car.

Ok thanks for heads up mate. Ive had a quick drive in it and love it so far. Even though its a fair bit heavier car and only 25bhp more than my 306, it feels a fair bit quicker. I know its not all about bhp and more about torque anyway. What torque should i expect from a stage 1 map? I will most proberly get a milltek decat exhaust and induction kit before remap so hoping for around the 200bhp mark. I know what you mean about a manufacture standard map as my 306 was 90bhp before remapping and it totally transformed the car remapping. Ive been looking on here and found SP Tuning in Leicester to be a very good place to get it done as they have a RR but its £300 IIRC. Anyone know of any other decent places/cheaper? I live in Ludlow, Shropshire, SY8 and Leicester is a good 83miles away. Also looking to get EGR mapped out aswell, can any place that remaps cars do this also is it free? Oh and another thing, does a pd150 throw out black coal when booting it after remap? My 306 does it and i love it. Even better when someone if right on my tailgate. Thanks.

 

[UncleFester]

You won't see 200bhp from an OEM turbo, if you do, it will be optimistic rollers.

 

[DarrenJ]

Fair enough Yeah, im looking for approx 200bhp for now. Doubt the funds will let me go anymore. 200bhp is enough for now though. Got to get used to driving it at 150bhp first anyway Not a huge jump from my 125bhp 306 hdi i know but ive only ever drove 306's. First was a 1.4 though. Already had a drive in my brothers leon and feels very nice to drive. Love the steering, feels solid

I came from a 1.4 leon 75bhp, now tdi cupra - twice the horsepower but way more torque

1.4 - 94 ft lbs

pd 150 - 236 ft lbs!!

I find the steering is solid alright, but when I get into the missus' golf, it's so much lighter than the leon.

OEM intercooler good enough for stage 1 map no bother. You might need to go over the intercooler pipes and seal em up - mine were all oily so I put PFTE tape on them and then the heaviest cable ties I could find and pulled em all together. Although if you're going for ~200 brake, I would run self tappers into them to keep em together and be dun with them.

 

[AshFR]

You won't see 200bhp from an OEM turbo, if you do, it will be optimistic rollers.

Well Sp Tuning and various other places say 195bhp and 295ft/ib so i would say thats near enough to 200bhp

Found out they charge £195 + 10% discount if you book online. Oh they do EGR delete free of charge aswell But does anyone know of any decent places nearer to me? Thanks.

 

[DarrenJ]

Well Sp Tuning and various other places say 195bhp and 295ft/ib so i would say thats near enough to 200bhp

Found out they charge £195 + 10% discount if you book online. Oh they do EGR delete free of charge aswell But does anyone know of any decent places nearer to me? Thanks.

Torque figure is more important really, that's what will make the most difference, and low-end power.

It's also the most important figure when considering a clutch.

The OEM will slip at 295 ft lbs for sure, but an after market one will handle that no prob. Sachs take up to 400ft lbs!

 

[AshFR]

Torque figure is more important really, that's what will make the most difference, and low-end power.

It's also the most important figure when considering a clutch.

The OEM will slip at 295 ft lbs for sure, but an after market one will handle that no prob. Sachs take up to 400ft lbs!

Yeah Looks like i would be getting a sachs with dmf then Will get the remap first and keep a new clutch on standby anyway.

Looking at EGR Delete aswell. Whats better, using the Allard EGR delete kit or having it mapped out or both the same? Thanks.

 

[Leon2012]

200 BHP is possible from a PD150 turbo, but you need other mods.

The OEM LUK clutch is rated at 270 ft/lbs.

For EGR delete, don't use Allard race pipe, as you lose the Anti-Shutter Valve, which is useful, so instead fit a blanking plate or disable in VAGCOM (probably what the remappers were offering).

Ash, look up REVO & search for a local dealer for a Stage 1 remap, they get good reviews. Also look around the sponsor forums here, as most of them do remaps and are reputable.

Btw, if you ever plan to upgrade further, you'd be better investing in a SouthBend silent SMF.

Remember, it's ok to say you won't upgrade anymore now, but try saying the same when you're bored of your power level, and have spent all your dough on mild upgrades :/

To make your new car really exciting, you need Bosio 783 PD racing injectors (£600),

& a proper turbo like a GTB (£750) -

This is a comparison pic between a GTB2260VK (with tubular manifold) and a standard PD150 turbo (GT1749VB) - the PD150 turbo is tiny in comparison:

+ a custom remap from an American remapper (£400), e.g. Malone Tuning, who are better than UK remappers.

Anything else is mild and will become boring after a short time in comparison.


To whet your appetite, this is a launch video of a Leon 4 with Race 783 nozzles and a big power turbo Although it's a hybrid turbo (which I wouldn't recommend). It's putting out 232 BHP & 496Nm/365 ft.lbs torque, and although you wouldn't have 4WD, it would still be V.quick

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDUvVLx0z9Y

 

[AshFR]

200 BHP is possible from a PD150 turbo, but you need other mods.

The OEM LUK clutch is rated at 270 ft/lbs.

For EGR delete, don't use Allard race pipe, as you lose the Anti-Shutter Valve, which is useful, so instead fit a blanking plate or disable in VAGCOM (probably what the remappers were offering).

Ash, look up REVO & search for a local dealer for a Stage 1 remap, they get good reviews. Also look around the sponsor forums here, as most of them do remaps and are reputable.

Btw, if you ever plan to upgrade further, the Sachs is not going to last you long & you need a Southbend silent SMF.

Remember, it's ok to say you won't upgrade anymore now, but try saying the same when you're bored of your power level, and have spent all your dough on mild upgrades :/

To make your new car really exciting, you need PD racing injectors, a proper turbo like a GTB and a custom remap from an American remapper, like Malone Tuning, who are better than UK remappers.

Anything else is mild and will become boring after a short time in comparison

Ok fair enough. Yeah thats true about wanting more power lol. So which southbend do i go for? Looking at the stage 1 daily driver, its rated at 400ft/ib torque and the sachs clutch is aswell but £400 cheaper. I know the sachs has a DMF though. I doubt it would go over 200bhp though as i would proberly buy another quicker car then but who knows Theres a REVO place only 20miles from me but i would like it on the RR before and after the map which SPTuning offer.

I dont think i could jusify spending over £1.5k for new injectors, turbo and map tbh. I would just buy a faster car to begin with lol. 200bhp should be enough as i doubt insurance would let me go over that being only 20 with 3 years ncb.

 

[DarrenJ]

Yeah Looks like i would be getting a sachs with dmf then Will get the remap first and keep a new clutch on standby anyway.

Looking at EGR Delete aswell. Whats better, using the Allard EGR delete kit or having it mapped out or both the same? Thanks.

Sounds like a plan man!

I just disconnected mine. If you look at the 1st page of my readers ride you'll see why I had to do something with mine - pure mess at 63k miles. You can simply take off vacuum pipe and insert a small bolt in it and cable tie around it. Does the job, then you can always reverse this in minutes.

Allard is good kit, and you get a hosetail for a boost gauge with in too!

A guy also has pics of his allard system if you search under the threads I started and look for boost gauge one.

 

[AshFR]

Sounds like a plan man!

I just disconnected mine. If you look at the 1st page of my readers ride you'll see why I had to do something with mine - pure mess at 63k miles. You can simply take off vacuum pipe and insert a small bolt in it and cable tie around it. Does the job, then you can always reverse this in minutes.

Allard is good kit, and you get a hosetail for a boost gauge with in too!

A guy also has pics of his allard system if you search under the threads I started and look for boost gauge one.

Yeah ive done this with my 306. Put a bolt in vacuum pipe but i might aswell get it mapped out when i have the remap done.

 

[DarrenJ]

Yeah ive done this with my 306. Put a bolt in vacuum pipe but i might aswell get it mapped out when i have the remap done.

Yeah you can get it turned right down and you can get the fault code or the Eml light that's on on mine all the bloody time mapped out

I don't know if disengaging it improves performance but I know when it's blocked and stuk open like mine was the car was running badly