Remote Central Locking Kit Fitting.
- Thread starter CraigW
- Start date
It doesnt actually say tbh, it just says on the diagram to put the yellow and yellow/black wire to a 12v source. I put it to the black/white/green wire for the hazard switch and it does sort of work.
Dont know about the indicator thing either?!
If it only has one 12v feed then I guess you want it to be constant. I'm not entirely sure which one you can use but there will be some red wires going into the fuse box which will be constant 12v, make sure it's after a fuse though.
as said, or add an inline fuse into it, make sure its a constant 12v... you arent going to be unlocking your car when the ignitions on afterall are you
Best way would be to test the wires with a multimeter...
youll have on the hazard switch however a constant 12v that you can use to power the kit, and taps for the indicators
the indicators staying on for longer could possibly be just the locking kit being set up a bit badly, if youve wired both sides the exact same then i could only presume its this... could over come it with diodes if it bothers you tho?
Best way would be to test the wires with a multimeter...
youll have on the hazard switch however a constant 12v that you can use to power the kit, and taps for the indicators
the indicators staying on for longer could possibly be just the locking kit being set up a bit badly, if youve wired both sides the exact same then i could only presume its this... could over come it with diodes if it bothers you tho?
as said, or add an inline fuse into it, make sure its a constant 12v... you arent going to be unlocking your car when the ignitions on afterall are you
Best way would be to test the wires with a multimeter...
youll have on the hazard switch however a constant 12v that you can use to power the kit, and taps for the indicators
the indicators staying on for longer could possibly be just the locking kit being set up a bit badly, if youve wired both sides the exact same then i could only presume its this... could over come it with diodes if it bothers you tho?
Well I attached the yellow and yellow/black wire to the black/white/green one which must be for the hazard switch and it must have a 12v going through it was it was working alright-ish. Might look for another wire though.
The indicator problem doesnt bother me as such, I just wondered. I wired it up using the central locking wires on the driver side of the car and when you open the car using the fob the passenger indicator stays on until that door is open. As it works from driver door/boot/passenger door.
Going to have another look at it this afternoon.
Got the kit working this afternoon!! !!! Its great having remote locking now.
I tapped the yellow and yellow black wire into the constant 12v wire on the wiring harness for the locking unit (after the fuse obviously) and its great.
Thanks guys for all the assistance!!!
.
Going to try and wire up my stand-alone rev counter next.
!!! Its great having remote locking now.I tapped the yellow and yellow black wire into the constant 12v wire on the wiring harness for the locking unit (after the fuse obviously) and its great.
Thanks guys for all the assistance!!!
.Going to try and wire up my stand-alone rev counter next.
HI CraigW any more info on this kit? I also have the central locking on my mk2 but the damned key thing in the door break every week so I was looking for a remote upgrade. Where can i find this and what is the price?
thanks
Mario
I got the kit from ebay. Its a Hawk Universal Remote Upgrade Kit.
It can be found here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UNIVERSAL-UPG...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4cf58b6fd9
All the information required is in that advert.
Hope this helps.
thanks Craig, I also found a lot of different ones on ebay but some of them were not for central lock with air pump (can't figure out what's the difference through) at last with this one I know it will work for sure
thanks Craig, I also found a lot of different ones on ebay but some of them were not for central lock with air pump (can't figure out what's the difference through) at last with this one I know it will work for sure
No problem mate. The kit I bought can work with either and electric system or an air pump. If you need help with the wiring let me know and I will help. I wired mine up so I can still unlock the car using the lock barrel in the door to.
ok decided to go with this one that is also alarm
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330321571498&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123
I'll probably need 3 days to wire it lol
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330321571498&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123
I'll probably need 3 days to wire it lol
yorkshirespud
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Hawk HA-008 wiring for Ibiza - Under dash wires
Hi, I've got a Hawk remote central locking upgrade kit that I want to wire into my 98 Ibiza.
I've had a look at the Hayes wiring diagram for the existing central locking, and I've also taken a look at the vacuum pump in the boot (after taking out the boot liner), and I can see that there are three wires - brown (earth), and red/blue and red/green to lock/unlock and run the pump in different directions.
I was hoping that the lock/unlock wires might be driving a relay, but they are the actual power wires for the pump.
The Hawk does have a mode that has a positive pulse on separate lock and unlock wires, so that's fine, but I do need an always on +12V feed. I had hoped to wire the Hawk in near the pump, but the live feed means it has to be wired in under the dash really.
Here's a question at last! Does anyone have any idea exactly where the red/blue & red/green wires are under the dash? There's a lot of wires under there!
Also, for this to work properly, the Hawk will have to provide 3 sec long un/lock pulses, not 1 sec. There's a jumper on the back of the Hawk, is that what changes the pulse length? There's no mention in the manual.
Hi, I've got a Hawk remote central locking upgrade kit that I want to wire into my 98 Ibiza.
I've had a look at the Hayes wiring diagram for the existing central locking, and I've also taken a look at the vacuum pump in the boot (after taking out the boot liner), and I can see that there are three wires - brown (earth), and red/blue and red/green to lock/unlock and run the pump in different directions.
I was hoping that the lock/unlock wires might be driving a relay, but they are the actual power wires for the pump.
The Hawk does have a mode that has a positive pulse on separate lock and unlock wires, so that's fine, but I do need an always on +12V feed. I had hoped to wire the Hawk in near the pump, but the live feed means it has to be wired in under the dash really.
Here's a question at last! Does anyone have any idea exactly where the red/blue & red/green wires are under the dash? There's a lot of wires under there!
Also, for this to work properly, the Hawk will have to provide 3 sec long un/lock pulses, not 1 sec. There's a jumper on the back of the Hawk, is that what changes the pulse length? There's no mention in the manual.
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