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Replacing the tailgate latch

Discussion in 'Mk2 Leon Guides (1P) 2006-2012' started by Jimbobcook, May 15, 2019.

  1. Jimbobcook

    Jimbobcook MK2 Cupra R Stock+
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    So a few days ago my boot latch started making some rather funky noises and then suddenly wouldn't lock the boot. The noise sounded exactly like this (not my video)

    So I ordered a new part from eBay with the part number 1P0827505A9B9 but always best to use the number from your old latch to make sure it's the correct one.

    To fit the new part is very easy even for me and will save you an hours of labour at your garage I'd assume.

    First you will need the following tools
    - plastic trim removal tool
    IMG_20190515_181722-2320x1305.jpg
    - XZN M8 (8 mm) I think...
    - my screwdriver came with this and didn't say what it was lol so here's a picture
    IMG_20190515_183436-1305x2320.jpg

    OK so now to undo the first 2 screws holding the trim onto the tailgate. You'll find them by sticking your head into the boot and looking up at the latch you'll see 2 screws (one on either side of the latch)

    IMG_20190515_182916-2320x1305__01.jpg

    Once both screws are taken out you need to take off the plastic trim, for this you'll need the trim remover at the ready.

    Looking at the rear of the car I started by inserting the trim removal tool in about 30cm to the left of the latch, once the tool is in a few inches twist it as this helps release the clips.

    IMG_20190515_181743-2320x1305.jpg
    IMG_20190515_181802-1305x2320.jpg

    You'll know when the clip is released as its quite a loud pop noise. Now do the same thing going round the left of the trim near the bottom.

    IMG_20190515_181822-1305x2320.jpg

    Now do the same on the other side of the trim, once done please see the picture below for the clips locations so you know where to pull for the ones you cannot use the removal tool for.

    IMG_20190515_181857-1305x2320__01.jpg

    Once the trim is loose it should just drop down, just lay it to one side. You should now be able to see the barebones of the boot workings. You need to unplug two connectors before swapping out the latch both items are circled below.

    IMG_20190515_181922-2320x1305__01.jpg

    The one in the middle of the boot disconnects the latch from the boot handle and the one on the left of the pic above is the connector for the latch. The boot handle cable is a pinch connector from the side and pulls down, the latch cable is a pain as you need to insert a long thin bit of metal (I used a smaller long flat head screwdriver) into the hole at the top of the connector shown below.

    IMG_20190515_181953-2320x1305__01.jpg

    Once inserted you need to pull the item down so it can release the catch, you should hear a little pop and the connector just pulls away (please note I did use a little bit of force before the pop noise).

    With both connectors released you now need to take off the latch by using your m8 screwdriver head, undo both bolts and lift the latch off.

    IMG_20190515_182056-2320x1305__01.jpg
     
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  2. Jimbobcook

    Jimbobcook MK2 Cupra R Stock+
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    Once the latch is off please note you need the plastic hood on the top of it to transfer to the new one (I did anyway), to take it off you need to squeeze it to get the little spikes out from the main latch body, this is what it should look like once removed.
    IMG_20190515_182344-2320x1305.jpg
    To attach this to the new latch just slide it on but note that the groove needs to match the raised bit of plastic on the hood so it sits flush.

    Now put the new latch back in position and tighten the screws up (m8). Now plug in the 2 connectors you unplugged earlier then I would suggest testing the boot before adding the trim back on.

    If everything works as it should then place the trim back on, I found the easiest way was to slide the trim up and in the grooves on the latch then everything else lines up.
    IMG_20190515_182822-2320x1305.jpg
    Now make sure all the clips are in securely using the picture from the beginning of this guide for locations. Now screw in the 2 screws to secure the trim to the body and you're done.

    Also worth noting that if your boot is locked and stuck you can manually open it from inside the boot using your key and this little slot.
    IMG_20190515_183136-1305x2320__01.jpg
     
  3. Legojon

    Legojon I only wanted a remap
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    Really appreciate you taking the time to photo and write this up. As you say can save some £s for a DIY job. For the next person that comes along, what do you do with the key and that slot on the inside of the boot? Just slide the key along it to unlatch it? I assume it can be any thin piece of metal and doesn't have to be the actual key?
     
  4. Jimbobcook

    Jimbobcook MK2 Cupra R Stock+
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    Yeah you just push a bit of metal in and slide it across

    Here is the bit of metal you're sliding for reference
    IMG_20190512_120350-1305x2320__01.jpg
     
  5. Legojon

    Legojon I only wanted a remap
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    Ace. I'll keep that in mind cause they always go at the most inconvenient of times!
     
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  6. Jimbobcook

    Jimbobcook MK2 Cupra R Stock+
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    I'd rather they stayed locked instead of not locking at all like mine did after a food shop... had to drive 3 miles thinking my boot was going to open on every bump I went over haha
     
  7. Legojon

    Legojon I only wanted a remap
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    LOL. Luckily they are quite heavy boots. Till I got used to shutting SL2 that little bit harder the first few journeys I could hear this banging. Which turned out to be the boot opening and shutting a couple of inches.
     
  8. 33754k

    33754k Active Member

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    Where best to get the part from. Cheers
     
  9. Jimbobcook

    Jimbobcook MK2 Cupra R Stock+
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    I use an eBay seller... They don't have one listed but that maybe because I bought it and they haven't relisted anymore... Send them a message.

    They're very helpful and may give you a call to discuss.

    https://ebay.co.uk/usr/deutscheparts
     
  10. t121anf

    t121anf Newbie

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    Be careful with ones from eBay mine was a terrible fit and needed modded to fit, the boot doesn’t latch as easily either.

    Part was listed as for our cars too, happy though as it was considerably cheaper than an oem part.
     
  11. Jimbobcook

    Jimbobcook MK2 Cupra R Stock+
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    This was a genuine OEM latch so if it didn't fit or had issues I would of sent it back.

    You could always get a quote from listers or hortons on the forum as they will be genuine!
     
  12. Legojon

    Legojon I only wanted a remap
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    I know I'm replying to my own quote... but seemed quite apt. Just been looking through your guide again ready for when my new latch arrives.

    One thing I'd add... on the journey home I obviously had the warning boot open on the MFD, rear tick lights and wiper were unavailable. When i got home, I unplugged the bigger connector (the one you use the screwdriver on) and now I have full lights working, rear wiper and no warning on the dash. The boot is definitely still open because it doesn't sit flush. But worth knowing as everything now functions correctly even with the boot tied down. So it's a bit less nerve wracking.

    Unfortunately the part on Amazon is on 4 weeks delivery and I just wanted my boot fixed. So I got a price from Listers. With the added bonus, the one I'm taking off is Rev C and the one hopefully arriving today is Rev E. Although the original lasted 8 years so not that much of a design flaw. I'm probably getting a cheaper made version LOL.
     
  13. Legojon

    Legojon I only wanted a remap
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    So just to add to this... if your boot still won't shut and crying doesn't help (which it didn't). You may need to adjust the striker to actually get the boot closed properly. I moved mine a little towards the read bumper. Helpfully it uses the same M8 bolts as the latch.

    upload_2020-1-9_11-50-2.png
     

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