Running rough - coilpack?

illusion

Active Member
Feb 6, 2007
91
0
Southampton
Well, it's wrong it's an AUQ.

Capture.jpg


Why are you so sure this is wrong? The code you quote AHQ is also in the parts listing but so is the one these guys are telling me?
 

LEE69

Stage 2 Revo'd
Dec 10, 2004
21,262
74
C\UK\Devon\Torquay
A leon cupra 180 is AUQ i know because i have one.
Look on the sticker by your spare wheel should say there or in your manual.
Also on the engine some where, there is a tab, can't recall where though.
 

illusion

Active Member
Feb 6, 2007
91
0
Southampton
A leon cupra 180 is AUQ i know because i have one.
Look on the sticker by your spare wheel should say there or in your manual.
Also on the engine some where, there is a tab, can't recall where though.

These are all the available engine code types for this engine and cars that it is fitted to. You have one type AUQ, I have a different one AJQ.

132 kW (179 PS; 177 bhp) @ 5,500 rpm; 235 N·m (173 ft·lbf) @ 1,950-5,000 rpm — AJQ, APP, ARY, ATC, AUQ, AWP, BEK, BNU (North America only)

Volkswagen Golf Mk4 GTI, VW Bora/Jetta, New Beetle, Audi A3, Audi A4, Audi TT Mk1 (8N), Škoda Octavia vRS, SEAT León, SEAT Toledo.

This is all irrelevant anyway as I still don't know where to get coil packs for my variant the AJQ.
 

VIKINGODIN

Active Member
Oct 19, 2009
59
0
south wales
ww.vehicle-electrics-online.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=&product_id=8385&category_id=488&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=35&vmcchk=1&Itemid=35



put another w at beginning
 

illusion

Active Member
Feb 6, 2007
91
0
Southampton
Thanks for your help chaps :)

I couldn't find this to save my life VIKINGODIN.

Interesting read on the second link there about the KO3 & KO3s Lee. Thought there would be some difference but was not sure what.
 

Mart

Sh#t Happens
Dec 18, 2001
155
0
Surrey
Visit site
First off, thanks to the creators of this thread, you’ve no doubt just saved me a bit of money taking the car to the dealers after getting all the symptoms described here.

I ordered 4 replacement packs, just fitted them. Only took about 25 minutes, well would have done if the originals on the car were screw in types, they were push fit. So after rummaging through the shed for 10 minutes I found 8 bolts to do the job.

Test drive was fine, car is running silky smooth, but the engine light is still on, (but no longer flashing), and the ‘service’ message now appears on the dashboard. Does anyone have any comments about that?
 

Phillc

Love is....Yellow
Apr 23, 2007
4,170
20
Pershore, worcestershire
First off, thanks to the creators of this thread, you’ve no doubt just saved me a bit of money taking the car to the dealers after getting all the symptoms described here.

I ordered 4 replacement packs, just fitted them. Only took about 25 minutes, well would have done if the originals on the car were screw in types, they were push fit. So after rummaging through the shed for 10 minutes I found 8 bolts to do the job.

Test drive was fine, car is running silky smooth, but the engine light is still on, (but no longer flashing), and the ‘service’ message now appears on the dashboard. Does anyone have any comments about that?

Firstly your welcome,:D and secondly regarding the dash light it may go out but you best bet is to get the car on Vag-com and get it switched off, the service message can be turned of but i cant remember how to do it, try looking on the forum through the search .
 

VIKINGODIN

Active Member
Oct 19, 2009
59
0
south wales
First off, thanks to the creators of this thread, you’ve no doubt just saved me a bit of money taking the car to the dealers after getting all the symptoms described here.

I ordered 4 replacement packs, just fitted them. Only took about 25 minutes, well would have done if the originals on the car were screw in types, they were push fit. So after rummaging through the shed for 10 minutes I found 8 bolts to do the job.

Test drive was fine, car is running silky smooth, but the engine light is still on, (but no longer flashing), and the ‘service’ message now appears on the dashboard. Does anyone have any comments about that?

It says in your handbook how to switch service light off,I think you hold button in and at same time turn ignition on but not engine for about 30 secs then turn it all off,the engine check light will prob go out if you unhook the negative terminal on your battery for 20 or 30 mins,make sure you have radio code though ok,it will prob cost 20 to 30 quid at a garage to get it turned off and for 300 bucks you can buy your own fault code reader with light extinguishing capabilities.
 

paul40

Guest
flashing engine management light

Hi

Just joined this forum and got some pretty good advice so far.

I've had a problem also with these ligfhts on the dash, mainly the engine management, it used to be on all the time and then a cpl of days ago it started to run like a bag of spanners so I thought coil pack had given up but did not smell anything at all. I bought 1 coil and replaced each old coil with the new one, cylinder 2 was the culprit and sounds like it was before but now the light is flashing all the time instead of constantly on? Airbag light is also lit, would this be the cause of the other light or 2 seperate problems??

cheers
 

paul40

Guest
Hi mate,

I have posted on the vag com thread for help with sum1 who has the kit to diagnose the fault, just seems strange that its now flashing? Drove to work this morning and was smooth, no problems at all. I am in Warrington mate.
 

CH1

Full Member
Jul 6, 2004
503
0
Problems after re-map and servicing cambelt dielemma

Hi,

I had a revo re-map (Stage 1) done recently on my 1.8T (180) and since then the car is hesitating in spots when accelerating.
I had the switch too so have since switched it back to stock mode, but notice it is still doing this, though to lower degree. There are no smells or warning lights on dash board (apart from service light as its due its' annual 5 year service).

Another thing is I have the Forge 007 dump value since 4 years no evident probs, then recently had to checked by a guy at Forge on a hot day do you think when he put it back it could be sticking or if not put back correctly?

Now my problem is it is booked to go to a SEAT dealer for its service soon and a cambelt change, have mentioned these hesitation probs. to them too.

I have 3 options what to do regards this problem :

1. Take it to people who re-mapped it (Revo HQ), who say they will diagnose it for free but have no parts facility should it need any parts eg coils, Air mass meters etc they suggested maybe take it to another revo dealer that has parts, servicing

2. Take it to specialist independant revo dealer with servicing facilities but they would charge for diagnosis alone- but would not charge if I had servicing, cambelt service etc cost is the same as Seat dealers with the addition of them changing the water pump too (although it doesn't need it atm)

3. Take it to Seat -said they will do diagnosis for free as part of service which is booked and cambelt

My initial thoughts are take it to revo to get it diagnosed -just to know what it is? then after knowing what it is decide where to get it done independant specialist garage or a Seat dealer.

Also as car is out of warranty how important is it where you get your cambelt done?
 

mph

Full Member
Jan 6, 2003
105
0
Liverpool
I recently had my excessive pollution light come on and the car lost some power. After reading through this thread it definitely seemed like I had a failed coilpack. I diagnosed it to cylinder 2 using VCDS. So I bought a new pack and fitted it. No problems, seemed back to normal.

Today I was on the motorway and when accelerating above 4000 revs, the car was juddering (as mentioned in this thread). I got home and VCDS gave fault codes 16684 (random multiple misfire) and 16686 (cylinder 2 misfire). Strange I thought... so I swapped packs 1 and 2 and went for a test drive and everything seemed back to normal - no more fault codes. I was expecting maybe cylinder 1 misfire if the new pack was faulty? An inspection of all 4 plugs indicated they were working fine.

Anyone got any suggestions? should I just monitor things for now, or should I be replacing the plugs too?