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rust and protection - wheel arch

Discussion in 'Ibiza Mk4' started by corndog, Nov 4, 2017.

  1. corndog

    corndog Full Member

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    I'm looking to rust remove, paint then undercoat my wheel arches.

    There's already undercoat slopped up some of it and obviously arch liner to help. with some patches of rust in the are.

    i've no experience so if anyone has any advice to offer that would be great.

    Thinking of doing it in this order:

    Clean out dirt etc with brush/degreaser

    Using some sort of abrasive to remove some rust combined with deox c gel

    make sure dry and clean.

    Zinc oxide or similar primer

    Paint of some sort

    Rubberized undercoat to cover the whole area.


    Thanks for any help. Hoping to get the basics done then look at more fun things to do to the car:D


    This is what it looks like after a bit of a clean
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. mgrays

    mgrays Full Member

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    Do it before the salt gets on the road.. probably too late I'm afraid.

    Depends how long you want to keep it..
    1. Wash car
    2. Strip car - inner wheel arches and bumpers
    3. Rewash car with a stiff brush and lots of soaking to remove as much mud as you can
    4. Poke suspect bits of paint that are bubbling with blunt screwdriver etc
    5. Decide if you want to keep car!!
    6. Keep car dry so water can dry up out of seams etc. No point sealing it into seams.
    7. Use a stiff hand brush (builders brush) to clean off mud and blunt screwdriver to dig it out
    8. Chip off thick rust - blunt screwdriver, arc welding chipping hammer, or my tool = needle gun (big one and small one) running off compressor
    9. Use wire brush, preferably twisted knot type on 4.5" angle grinder to remove rust, Some places you have to use hand brush. Do not bother with one on the end of a drill.
    10. Go over again with chipping rust in corners. I use a very small 6mm wide chisel and small hammer.
    10. Blow off dust and tidy up floor
    11. Coat with Bilt Hammer or Dynatrol FE-123 rust killer
    12. Zinc rich paint nice = Bilt Hammer seems best
    13. Water proof paint. Frost Chassis paint is Jotun Epxoymastic paint and the best. It is 2 part so mix some up in a same tin. A proper Jotun repair pack is about 7 litres and £70 but Frost want x3 money for less volume. Most paint is porous so is a waste of time.
    14. 2 coats
    15. You can top it off with Hammerite or similar if it is visible as the sun makes Epoxymastic go chalky.
    16. Bilt Hammer or Dynatrol thin rust waxoyl type stuff - best with a pressure pot driven by compressor but again that is extreme, use a bucket of water, thin with white spirits and a garden spray would do.
    17. Exposed areas use black Bilt Hammer or Dynatrol 4900 type stuff with wax. Do not use rubber or stone chip as that fails in one spot and then water travels very quickly behind it (as it does with plastic coating).
    18. Reassemble
    19. Wash car - petrol will remove overspray
    20. Wax car with a serious heavy duty wax to keep water from penetrating the paint work (remember most paints are porous to water..)

    Now some of that is optional.
    I would ignore rust killer, zinc rich primer and hammerite if you are skint, and probably zinc rich primer even if you are not. It is all about keeping the water and oxygen from getting to the steel by using water proof materials.

    I did most of that to all my cars .. they are still here 4-15 years later in Aberdeen where we like our salt .. they do need a touch up every 3-4 years on small patches.
     
    #2 mgrays, Nov 6, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2017
  3. R3k1355

    R3k1355 Senior Member

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    Looks like surface rust but nothing serious.
    Have at it with a wire wheel and then treat the bare metal before paint.
     
  4. corndog

    corndog Full Member

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    Thanks guys. Down in Dundee and the salt has just appeared!

    Hopefully able to keep this in decent condition :)
     

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